Tapping Bose Sub

H

Hellacool

Member
I just brought home my 2008 CX9. I traded a 2006 Mazdaspeed6. In my Speed6 the Bose Sub/Amp were one piece and a solid 2 Volt signal was sent to the sub from the HU. Is the CX9 the same? I would like to pull the sub out and replace it with my Rockford 500W amp and 12W6 and want to know if I can tap the signal for the amp?
 
Hellacool said:
I just brought home my 2008 CX9. I traded a 2006 Mazdaspeed6. In my Speed6 the Bose Sub/Amp were one piece and a solid 2 Volt signal was sent to the sub from the HU. Is the CX9 the same? I would like to pull the sub out and replace it with my Rockford 500W amp and 12W6 and want to know if I can tap the signal for the amp?
Click to expand...

I have my sub setup coming off of the sub speaker leads. I'm using a LLC and it sounds great. I too also came from a MS6 to the CX9. I am missing the Metra Kit the 6 had (My Alpine IVA-D300 is collecting dust).
 
DPSpeed said:
I have my sub setup coming off of the sub speaker leads. I'm using a LLC and it sounds great. I too also came from a MS6 to the CX9. I am missing the Metra Kit the 6 had (My Alpine IVA-D300 is collecting dust).
Click to expand...
I looked in the rear and the sub looks easily accessible. Did you tap the leads and install an RCA? Do you know the color for the +/- ? It looks like I could pull the whole thing out leaving a nice space for an amp.
 
Hellacool said:
I looked in the rear and the sub looks easily accessible. Did you tap the leads and install an RCA? Do you know the color for the +/- ? It looks like I could pull the whole thing out leaving a nice space for an amp.
Click to expand...

I tapped and installed an MTX RE-Q5 LLC. While it's a little overkill for just a sub, it has excellent control over the signal. I removed the 10 or so screws from the top of the stock sub and removed the monster 6" sub. I don't remember which colors I used but a simple C cell battery test on the stock sub will tell you which one is neg and which is pos.

I left the stock enclosure in and mounted my amp on my sub box between it and the rear 2nd row seat. I'm also running a single 12W6V2 powered by a 500/1.
 
DPSpeed said:
I tapped and installed an MTX RE-Q5 LLC. While it's a little overkill for just a sub, it has excellent control over the signal. I removed the 10 or so screws from the top of the stock sub and removed the monster 6" sub. I don't remember which colors I used but a simple C cell battery test on the stock sub will tell you which one is neg and which is pos.

I left the stock enclosure in and mounted my amp on my sub box between it and the rear 2nd row seat. I'm also running a single 12W6V2 powered by a 500/1.
Click to expand...
I see what you did. I know in the Speed you could remove the whole Sub/Amp combo and tap the wiring harness for a flat, 2V full channel signal. I am hoping I can do this on the CX9. I want to pull the whole thing and install a small Crossover and amp to power my 12W6.
 
Hellacool said:
I see what you did. I know in the Speed you could remove the whole Sub/Amp combo and tap the wiring harness for a flat, 2V full channel signal. I am hoping I can do this on the CX9. I want to pull the whole thing and install a small Crossover and amp to power my 12W6.
Click to expand...

Unlike the 6, the sub amp is not mounted near the sub (at least I didn't see it). Check out the MTX piece, it's made to utilize a connection regardless if it's before or after an oem amp and will give your more signal than you need (It has a built-in xover too). I'm also running a JL Audio CL-RLC remote to have bass level control up front.
 
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