Cobb Turbo Inlet Install & Review

bova80

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2007 Mazdaspeed6 GT
Mazdaspeed6 Cobb Turbo Inlet Install How To/Review

Overall Review
This is a really nice piece. It is reinforced so it is not that flimsy and can support some weight. Fitment of the intake on the metal sleeve was a bit tight but some lubricant can help slide it on. Also since the inlet is not secured anywhere except the turbo, it does move around a little when installing the intake making it a little tricky, but with some patience it isnt a problem. For the novice installer allow yourself at least an hour to install this, for the more advanced I would say this can be done within a half hour. It took me about an hour but I was taking pictures and pressure testing. Also if you have the stock turbo inlet there is a little more work involved. Overall I would rate this inlet very high in quality and somewhat easy to install for the more advanced modder.

Driving Impressions
Just went for a quick spin around the block and this inlet is much quieter than speedie6's inlet and I like it, no offense speedie6. I'll update this portion after I log a few more miles on it.

Tools needed

-8mm socket
-10mm wrench/socket
-12mm wrench/socket
-various extensions
-flat head screw driver
-channel locks
-wd-40 (used as lubricant)

Install
This install was not done on the stock turbo inlet pipe and some directions may vary.

Step 1
Remove intercooler cover and disconnect battery terminals (10mm)
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Step 2
Remove battery tie down (1) 10mm nut and (1) 10mm bolt and then remove battery carefully.
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Step 3
Remove battery tray by removing (2) 10mm bolts.
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Step 4
Remove intake from turbo inlet, valve cover vent, and disconnect bypass valve hose using channel locks (it helped to remove the hose from the bypass valve and then from the turbo inlet.)
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Step 5

Remove 10mm nut holding turbo inlet in place as well as the clamp (10mm t-bolt or worm clamp) holding the inlet on the turbo.
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Step 6

Here is a comparison of the cob inlet, stock inlet and speedie6s inlet
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Cobb Inlet alone
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Install Cobb inlet on turbo and secure worm clamp (8mm), also connect boost control vacuum line onto plastic nipple.
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Step 7
Make sure both metal sleeves on inlet are protruding half way out and then secure them with supplied clamps (8mm).
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Step 8
Reinstall your bypass valve hose and intake (wd-40 used to help slide bypass valve hose and intake on to metal sleeves as fitment is a little tight.) Make sure all your clamps are tight and everything is secure, reinstall intercooler cover if necessary and you are ready to go.
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Miscellaneous Pictures

Here is a picture of the turbine.
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And here is a picture of what I use to pressure test the system (held just fine.)
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Looks good! I know you already had a turbo inlet on there, but how does the drive feel? Any noticable difference from stock with either?
 
well i didnt' really get on it because i like to let my fuel trims learn before i do that. one thing is it is a lot quieter than the other one i had on there, which i like. so i'll be posting up my other one for sale.
 
Can you install a TIP with factory airbox? From all the reading I've been doing seems like there's no point in an SRI or CAI, all the power gains are from the TIP.
 
Can you install a TIP with factory airbox? From all the reading I've been doing seems like there's no point in an SRI or CAI, all the power gains are from the TIP.

Not true at all. The intake (CAI or SRI) with both net more gains than the TIP. You can install one with the factory airbox, but it won't net you much. I'd recommend the Cobb SRI with the Cobb inlet for a solid intake air solution, which will run you under $400 for both.
 
Bova, how long do you think that skinny (3/16") hose is alltogether. I ordered 3 feet, which I think should be enough. I also ordered a silicone recirc tube to match everything while I have the pipe out. Figured I may as well with the pipe out.
 
probably 6 inches. you are talking about the one on the wastegate solenoid right?

you can buy my aluminum turbo inlet alladin if you want!
 
i'm not sure what the length of hose from the bypass valve is from the valve to the inlet, but i will say its 1" diameter hose. i'll be doing my fmic install this weekend so i can measure that if you want when i take it off the car.
 
That hose going to the wastegate actuator is only 3/16" though. It's pretty small, right?
 
I'm gonna go out and measure right now, while I have time. I'll need to call them and change my order then...whoops!

Edit: found the WGA hose to be short, and only 3/16" size. The smaller hose on the BPV is 1/4" ID, and you need about a foot of it, where it connects to the intake manifold, right between the runners.

I'll add some pics for the stock inlet change out when I do mine.

Edit 2: got off the phone with SU, 3/16" is the size they supply with their BPV/BOV kits for that smaller line up front, so I ordered that.
 
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Any updated driving impressions/DH notes from the install? Did anything change with it put in?
 
car drives awesome. can't tell you if anything else changed since i added the fmic this weekend but overall my car performs very well.
 
I'm glad I went with the Cobb over the CP-e one. I found an install on another forum and noticed that they had to hack up the battery tray to make it fit, which is something I don't wanna do.
 
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