oaklandopen
Member
pretty simple stuff but i figured since there was an oil change how-to (and that i was bored today) a simple brake check how-to should be okay
tools needed:
-hydraulic jack (or a lift if you're rich)
-jack stands
-torque wrench
-1/4'' breaker bar (good practice to not use a torque wrench as a breaker bar)
-21mm socket, 3'' socket extension (so you can keep distance between the car and torque wrench)
-tire depth gauge
make sure you break the lug nuts free first with the breaker bar and 21mm socket on each wheel, and THEN lift the vehicle in the air. jack up one side, place stands underneath, and then the other side. make sure the tires are completely off the ground, remove nuts, then remove wheels
visually inspect the rotors. they should be relatively smooth with uniform color. if there is any dark spotting your rotor has been burnt. this happens when you use the brakes too hard for long periods without cooling down, or if you ride the brakes like an old person. mine looked just fine
grab the tire depth gauge to measure your pad thickness. the blue part is what you want to measure:
i find it best to extend the gauge, touch the rotor with the tip, and push it until the base of the tool (in red) is flush with the base of the pad.
just do a visual of the inner pad through the viewing window on the caliper since using the gauge would be difficult. again the pad is in blue
my measurements were 12/32'' in the fronts, and 13/32'' in the rear with 13,000 miles on the odometer. the minimum pad thickness is 2/32'' before replacement. having read some posts about changing pads at 20k miles got me worried until i actually looked at them today, i don't know what those other guys are doing but they're certainly going through pads more than they need to.
put the wheels back on and hand tighten the nuts. give the wheels a good strong jiggle to make sure it's flat against the disk plate while tightening. then set the car down, and grab the torque wrench.
lug nut torque specs are 65-86 ft/lbs. i set mine to 85 cuz it was cold outside and the car had been sitting for a while so all the metal components were cold as well. don't forget the torque pattern:
checking your own brakes isn't really manditory, but if you rotate your own tires you may as well do it while your wheels are off. i needed to rotate, and i had the car up in the air anyway cuz i did an oil change as well.
tools needed:
-hydraulic jack (or a lift if you're rich)
-jack stands
-torque wrench
-1/4'' breaker bar (good practice to not use a torque wrench as a breaker bar)
-21mm socket, 3'' socket extension (so you can keep distance between the car and torque wrench)
-tire depth gauge
make sure you break the lug nuts free first with the breaker bar and 21mm socket on each wheel, and THEN lift the vehicle in the air. jack up one side, place stands underneath, and then the other side. make sure the tires are completely off the ground, remove nuts, then remove wheels
visually inspect the rotors. they should be relatively smooth with uniform color. if there is any dark spotting your rotor has been burnt. this happens when you use the brakes too hard for long periods without cooling down, or if you ride the brakes like an old person. mine looked just fine
grab the tire depth gauge to measure your pad thickness. the blue part is what you want to measure:
i find it best to extend the gauge, touch the rotor with the tip, and push it until the base of the tool (in red) is flush with the base of the pad.
just do a visual of the inner pad through the viewing window on the caliper since using the gauge would be difficult. again the pad is in blue
my measurements were 12/32'' in the fronts, and 13/32'' in the rear with 13,000 miles on the odometer. the minimum pad thickness is 2/32'' before replacement. having read some posts about changing pads at 20k miles got me worried until i actually looked at them today, i don't know what those other guys are doing but they're certainly going through pads more than they need to.
put the wheels back on and hand tighten the nuts. give the wheels a good strong jiggle to make sure it's flat against the disk plate while tightening. then set the car down, and grab the torque wrench.
lug nut torque specs are 65-86 ft/lbs. i set mine to 85 cuz it was cold outside and the car had been sitting for a while so all the metal components were cold as well. don't forget the torque pattern:
checking your own brakes isn't really manditory, but if you rotate your own tires you may as well do it while your wheels are off. i needed to rotate, and i had the car up in the air anyway cuz i did an oil change as well.
