Mobil 1 0W-30
- Thread starter 07MZ5SA
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rweatherford
Member
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- Mazda 5
You won't notice any difference. The factory weight is 5W-20.
honestly, going from 5W to 0W isn't going to do squat except mabye wear the engine a bit more.. there's just not enough difference in the viscosity unless you normally see subzero temps.
0W flows faster at startup than 5W. The colder it is, the bigger the difference. Every second faster helps in my viewI use Mobil 1 0W-20.
At operating temp, a 0W-20 and 5W-20 are similar thicknesses.
From my understanding, 0w-20 doesn't only apply to temperature weight, I read an article not too long ago where they mention that they achieved better results from an engine-test with 10w-30, they tested 0w30, 5w30 and 10w30 held it's viscosity much longer. Their excuse was the quality and detergents in the 10w30, which results in better results.
"Better results" is quite general - an oil has to do many things at the same time. The viscosity rating is a measure of viscosity related performance, and that's it. A lubricant company can choose to use an additive package that doesn't even meet the minimum API licensing requirements, one that just meets minimum requirements, or one that exceeds the minimum requirements by some amount (a little or a lot).
I would have more technical detailed information for you, but this was a couple months ago and I never saved the website.
But from what I read and what they showed, it convinced me that 10w30 is the right choice for proper viscosity consistency over 4-5K miles on synthetic oil in my mazdaspeed3 (burnout)
TRXSandRacer02
Member
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- 2000 Mazda 626 LX
why not use what the manufacturer recomends, if you blow the engine and mazda has proof of using too thin of oil or incorrect viscosity, they wont waranty yoru engine, why would they?
0W-30 is not too thin and it meets all the warranty requirements that a 5W-30 would meet. It just pumps faster to engine parts that don't have the proper amount of oil to separate moving parts, and it will give you better fuel economy. They both behave like a 30 at operating temp.
Using a xW-30 in place of a xW-20 would result in slightly worse fuel economy (30 is thicker than 20 at operating temp).
Using a xW-30 in place of a xW-20 would result in slightly worse fuel economy (30 is thicker than 20 at operating temp).
Personally, I won't be using any Exxon-Mobil products given the proven deficiency in the M1 5W30 recently. That product didn't meet SM/GF-4 wear requirements in testing at at least 2 non-Exxon labs. The thread meanders on and off-topic, but see here for some of the details:
Thread
I have no information that suggests that others grades are so deficient as the 5W30 (which was not even close to being in-spec), but the company has burned any chance at getting my business.
Thread
I have no information that suggests that others grades are so deficient as the 5W30 (which was not even close to being in-spec), but the company has burned any chance at getting my business.
you will not see the different in 0W-30 and 5W-30 when you driving your M5.
0W and 5W are more mean winter. I live in Calgary and our winter can be really cold. When -25c or lower outside, 0W oil will give a easy start for the engine. So we don't use 10W-30 in Calgary for the winter.
I always use AMSOIL 0W-20 for my 08 M5. I am really happy.
20 or 30 is ok for our M5. unless you are driving a BMW M3 or M5, you may need 20W-50(if only drive in summer) or even 60.
0W and 5W are more mean winter. I live in Calgary and our winter can be really cold. When -25c or lower outside, 0W oil will give a easy start for the engine. So we don't use 10W-30 in Calgary for the winter.
I always use AMSOIL 0W-20 for my 08 M5. I am really happy.
20 or 30 is ok for our M5. unless you are driving a BMW M3 or M5, you may need 20W-50(if only drive in summer) or even 60.
Just got back from Colorado and had a chance starting in -16F temperature.
There's no noticeable difference in cranking speed, fast idle or engine response other than taking more than 15 minutes to idle back at 1K RPM (compare with 70F). I think both 0W synthetic oil and Optima battery helped.
There's no noticeable difference in cranking speed, fast idle or engine response other than taking more than 15 minutes to idle back at 1K RPM (compare with 70F). I think both 0W synthetic oil and Optima battery helped.
Sweetie3.14
Member
- :
- Mazda5
The "W" stands for winter. The first number is the weight of the oil at start up and the last number is the weight at operating temp. People mistakenly think that it stands for weight, which is wrong.
Please go away, no one here thought otherwise that W meant anything other than winter.
