ATF at 18k Miles.

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07MZ5SA

Member
:
2007 Mazda 5
OM does not (edit) have ATF OCI. Most other synthetic ATF such as Toyota WS has severe schedule of 60k. I personally know Mercon V (semi-blend) does not last 60k.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123667437&highlight=mercon

While change oil at 18k, I decided to drain and fill OEM ATF with Mobil-1 synthetic ATF knowing some past Mazda/Ford 4-speed auto have problems.

Here's a pic on ATF.

P.S. I didn't change the filter. Refill is a tick under 3 qt. And comments on carwash are not welcome. :rolleyes:
 

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Are the two milk jugs of oil the old and new ATF? If so, I presume the one on the right in the photo is the used ATF? And I believe your post title is indicating that this vehicle has 18,000 miles on it, correct?
 
IF all of my assumptions above are correct, you need to be changing your ATF at absolutely no more than 15,000 miles. What are your driving habits?

P.S. For anyone anywhere to say that xx ATF lasts yy miles is absolute foolishness. ATF lasts according to the transmission design, capacity, usage, etc.
 
Dirty ATF (r) and new Mobil-1 (l).

Mobil-1 (Mercon V) new formula is more apple red than old one (cherry red).

My MZ5 is driven mostly short distance (2-5 miles) per trip. Almost never stop-and-go traffic. 20-30% highway (> 50MPH). Average Houstonian driving style.

3 qt (drain/fill) out of 7.6 qt total should be adequate for 20k if good semi-blend or synthetic is used.
 
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Well after looking at that, looks like it might be time to change fluids. I was wondering what the drain interval was, sent out a email to Mazda when we first got the Mz5, here's the Reply:


Hello Brian,
Thanks for contacting Mazda. I apologize for the delay in response to your email.

We appreciate your patience. There is no recommended interval for replacing the transmission fluid. However, you do need to get it inspected regularly and at the time of inspection, that will determine when to get it replaced.

Again, thank you for contacting Mazda.

Regards,
Bernadette W.
Specialist, Customer Assistance E-Business
 
I forgot to mention:

Visual inspection of ATF from dipstick shows cherry red clean.

I might try pan and filter inspection next ATF OCI (20k).
 
Wow that sucks for 18k miles. I do 90% short trips as well, so I would guess mine will need to be changed by then.

I haven't looked at the transmission, does the 2.3 have a plug for the transmission pan or did you use a return line to drain it?
 
A drain plug at lower body. Filter replacement requires removal of pan. A typical Japanese design.
 
07MZ5SA said:
3 qt (drain/fill) out of 7.6 qt total should be adequate for 20k if good semi-blend or synthetic is used.
Click to expand...

I agree with that as a desire, but in real life ATF life is based on the things I posted above. BTW, nearly all of the new-type ATFs are 'synthetic' blends.
 
Curious, how do the shops "flush" the transmission? I am thinking just an air hose at the dipstick forces the extra fluid out. But I have been wrong before (once).
 
Connect hoses to an in and an out line on the transmission (easy if it has a cooler), then start the vehicle (and/or the machine). The pump inside the tranny pumps new fluid in from the machine's reservoir, and the exhausted fluid is captured in the machine. As I say, sometimes the machine does the pumping. I don't like that method as well. On a tranny with a cooler, you can do it yourself though it's often messy.
 
A flush machine will mix some old and new as new fluid enters the torque converter.

Some older longitudinal transmissions have a drain plug on torque converter.

You can do a drain-and-fill method at every oil change.

1st change: 39% new fluid
2nd: 63%
3rd: 78%
4th: 87%
5th: 91%

This method does not take into consideration of new fluid deterioration.
 
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My 5 with juuust under 20K burned it's fluid and started shifting funny. THe dealer said they flushed it out and replaced it but now I'm wondering if I need to have this filter changed as well. DOes that need to be changed regularly like the engine oil filter? I've never had an automatic before so this is all new to me.
 
daan:

Are you losing ATF or discoloration?

I'm assuming AT is working properly after flushing. What did dealer say about condition of ATF?
 
The fluid was full, it just was brown. The dealer flushed & refilled it, and said there were no codes stored in the computer. I'm just supposed to keep an eye on it to see if it burns again. THe trans seems to be shifting OK. Well as OK as an automatic would, anyway...this is the first car I've owned with an auto in the 21 years I've had cars.
 
Just make sure you drain and refill (no need to flush every time) very frequently. If it did it once, it'll do it every time unless your driving habits change.
 
Mazda5 ATF Oil Analysis

Did a drain and refill on my Auto Mazda5 with 50,500 miles. Refilled it with the Mobil1 ATF. Sent a sample of the ATF to Blackstone Labs for analysis. It cost $20 to have it analyzed. Attached is the result ...
 

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I've done this with a Saab 9-5 w/ AT. Disconnect your ignition prior to cranking. Thii will keep the engine from starting/running.

bulwnkl said:
Connect hoses to an in and an out line on the transmission (easy if it has a cooler), then start the vehicle (and/or the machine). The pump inside the tranny pumps new fluid in from the machine's reservoir, and the exhausted fluid is captured in the machine. As I say, sometimes the machine does the pumping. I don't like that method as well. On a tranny with a cooler, you can do it yourself though it's often messy.
Click to expand...
 
07MZ5SA said:
A drain plug at lower body. Filter replacement requires removal of pan. A typical Japanese design.
Click to expand...

Service writer tells me there is no drain plug for the auto tranny. I decided not to argue with him as he is very combative for some reason.

I'm trying to decide if I'll try the partial drain/refill however much comes back out, or the transmission pump method. I know on a Mazda 5 forum site, one poster had good pics on doing that method.
 
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