Mazda 5 Detailing

jaxmazda5

Member
I didn't notice any threads discussing detailing. It's kind of a hobby for me and now with the addition of the mazda 5 to my driveway, that makes 2 black cars to care for.
What products does everyone here like, tried, don't like etc...what's your routine? Now that spring is coming, it's a great time to get your mazda 5 looking sweet.
 
Routine:

1. Wash with either Maguires (the neon pink stuff) or Turtle Was Car wash (depending on prices/budget constraints). I use a was brush (handheld) and will get a large one one of these days.

2. Dry with chamois/old towels (chamois is lint free) and towel out door jambs/openings. No matter how meticulously you detail, if you don't get the door jams, it will always look dirty. Also, it's a quick way to make the car look cleaner (to you).

3. Clean mags with Maguires wheel cleaner if needed.

4. Vaccum interior and floormats. Wash floormats if needed and hang to dry.

5. Armorall ALL interior plastic. ALL of it. That's a LOT in the 5! (armorall all weather mats when dry). I also armorall the door seals (usually every other time. This keeps the seal tighter for longer and lasts years.

6. WAX twice a year. Usually Maguires, but I think I'll switch back to nu-finish . (I use the liquid wax per directions). I also learned to wax the Mags (not sure about chrome rims), as it makes them easier to clean off. A good wax routines makes for my short wash list (see below).

7. Clean all interior/exterior glass.

8. Armorall ALL exterior plastic/rubber including tire faces


SHORT WASH (in a hurry or winter time.

1. Automatic Car wash
2. Vaccum
3. Dry/clean door jams.
4. Armorall interior monthly

I spent 3 summers washing cars for a US Rental Car company, so my detailing tends to lean toward the quick side. I did learn from our products supplier a few tips like waxing the mags and armorall on the door seals. I will tell you that it was an interesting job, in tat I learn what corners could be cut in a hurry. My all time record was a wash/spruce-up of a Ford Expidition in 8 minutes.
 
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I have done my fair share of detailing too. I owned a Black, non clear coat, Mustang in college and that was my main test bed. I could wax that car ten times and each time would look a little bit deeper, so it was always worth the effort. Now, with two kids, a wife, a large house, and a full time job, I don't have five hours a week for appearance maintenance on my vehicles, so some processes have been created for longer life:

1. Wash: I use Meguiars Gold Class wash. You can buy it by the gallon from Meguiars for only 1 dollar more than the quart of regular stuff costs you at your local Autozone. This stuff goes on like it is lubricated and lifts off everything that gets in its way. I use a spun gold wash mitt to wash with. As I am only 5'6" tall I have to use a milk crate to reach the top of the 5.

2. Washing the wheels. I use a tool from Griots garage that looks like an elongated paint brush that allows me to scrub the inside of the wheels through the openings. I use a different wash glove with green springy things , yea technical term, to wash the rim itself with just the regular gold class car wash, no wheel cleaner products.

3. I dry the outside of the vehicle with newer towels that are only for car washing. When I wash these towels in the washing machine I do not use fabric softener because fabric softener will remove wax when rubbed on the surface of the car. When I dry the door jams, I use older towels and will spray the jams with Meguiars instant detailer product to loosen any debris that collects in the jams. I also spray the wheel wells with the instant detailer and use it to remove any buildup in the wheel wells. I hate looking at really great wheels only to see the wheel wells coated in gunk.

4. Following washing I clean the inside of the car using Meguiars quik interior detailer. It leaves no shine and simply lifts off dust and dirt. It is so easy to use and smells great.

5. Sweeping carpets, floor mats etc....

6. One quick coat of Meguiars instant detailer over the outside surfaces to provide a little extra protection.


WAXING
1. Wash the car!!!!
2. Clay the vehicle. Detailing clay will remove any "stuck on" contaminents from the vehicles surface. Griots garage offers the best clay.
3. Meguiars machine polish the vehicles surface. I use a Porter Cable random orbital buffer to accomplish this with pads that Meguiars provides for polishing. The Porter Cable buffer is offered by both Meguiars and Griots at an outrageous mark up. Go to your local hardware dealer, or the web and you can find it much more reasonably priced and it is the best random orbital I have ever used, but I am not a pro, so that doesn't mean much.
4. I hand apply a coata of Zymol Carbon wax to the suface of the vehicle. Zymol carbon has various elements that help "re-liquify" the paint in order to keep it flexible. The wax is simply rubbed on the surface of the car and then rubbed "in" while removing the excess. To do this I use Griots wax removal towels that are 100% cotton, even the binding thread is cotton so that it will not scratch.
5. Two coats of Meguiars NXT generation car wax. This is applied by machine and is very easy to apply. I once again use Griots wax removal towels to get the excess off about 2 minutes after applying the wax. I never let the wax fully "dry" on the surface, I always rub it in.

Using this process usually results in at least one years service from the wax, to the point the beading is only changed a tiny bit from time of application to a year later.
 
Black car huh? I owned one, awesome when detailed, but awful to keep clean :(

I'm old style I guess, too many fancy products nowadays, but here we go:

  • A hint of Armor-All original for dashboard, doors, liftgate (I don't like the bowling ball shine look, just the clean looks)
  • Armor-All extreme tire shine
  • TurtleWax Car Wash. I get snow and salty roads now and then but not that radical. I noted this car wash reduces the waxing frequency. Big sponge to wash, sheep skin (whatever is called) fabric to dry
  • Winterize all doors with Lubrimatic white lithium grease (Spray and Paste)
 
sounds like Opus knows what the deal is. good process and good products.

I haven't washed our 5 yet, but my GTi is black so I'm careful with drying and such to avoid swirls and marring.
10 minute pre-winse lots of water
Wash-Maguires gold class with microfiber mitt
i use my yard blower before hand drying to blow out the grill, mirrors, gas cap, handles etc
dry with combination of 'absorber' and large microfiber towel, using a maquires quik detailer spray.
I have an assortment of spray wax, maguires polish, sealant, and carnubas and synthetic waxes.
Always hit the door jams as someone mentioned.

I could do it all in couple hours or I could literally spend all day. Just depends on priorities.

ps-armorall is the devil, 'old towels' have no place for using on a new car. if you care about your paint, an old towel won't cut it.
 
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I use Z7 shampoo with a 2 bucket method (sheepskin) mitt, P21s gel for cleaning wheels with the EZ detail brush (for inside the rims), then dry off with MF towels (danase phat towels). From there use a clay bar with lube or when i'm washing with Z7. From there i use the UDM with SIP and LC CCS orange pad then 106FF with white LC CCS pad. Then do a 50/50 wipe down to check my process and then go with Z2 x 2 polish and from there use ZCS for that wet shine. Interior gets 303 and door rubber trim also and glass gets stoners cleaner. Tires get RL tire dressing and a Z8 wipe down to end it. Also stay away from AA on your interior trim!
 
Also for OTC the best out there is Duragloss products.....

not sure I have seen duragloss. I realize that OTC products are no where near the quality of stuff you can order (for the most part) so I've tried to collect what I can get at auto parts, wal-mart etc...I'll look for this to add to the collection. Since I have 2 black cars now, my goal is to find the best stuff for dark colors.

I've recently become addicted to these sites which have an endless amount of info:

autopia.org
autogeek.net
detailersdomain.com
 
I use Z7 shampoo with a 2 bucket method (sheepskin) mitt, P21s gel for cleaning wheels with the EZ detail brush (for inside the rims), then dry off with MF towels (danase phat towels). From there use a clay bar with lube or when i'm washing with Z7. From there i use the UDM with SIP and LC CCS orange pad then 106FF with white LC CCS pad. Then do a 50/50 wipe down to check my process and then go with Z2 x 2 polish and from there use ZCS for that wet shine. Interior gets 303 and door rubber trim also and glass gets stoners cleaner. Tires get RL tire dressing and a Z8 wipe down to end it. Also stay away from AA on your interior trim!


DO... YOU... SPEAKA... THE ENGLISH?!(screwy)

I use a bucket with soapy water, then dry with a couple towels. I wax my cars onceish a year, use a vaccuum on the carpet and a damp cloth on the plastic. Window cleaner for the windows.

Seriously, what's with all the crazy products? I use basic stuff on my cars and they look great. I'm pretty anal too, not one of those people that don't mind water spots and dirty tires. I am apparantly a little odd in that I like my cars CLEAN, not cleaned and then slathered in shiny crap (talking about plastic and rubber here).
 
some people like a clean car and others like a REALLY clean car along with preserving the finish. 'old towels' will no doubt scratch and swirl the paint. If your car is white, silver etc...maybe it's not noticed.

i promise if you take a bath towel and dry a new black car, it's gonna scratch it. Anyways, that's why it's called detailing.

I'm trying to budget to buy a porter cable 7424 along with some good pads. having trouble deciding what product line to go with on polish. looking at pinnacle, menzerna etc
 
zoomzoom mazda5

we speak the same language XD

work of advice: dont use old towels. bath towels will scratch and mar your paint. the fibers have chemicals in them from the laundry among other things. this stiffens some of the fibers, and will undoubtedly scratch your paint.

If you want to make the jump away from OTC products check out sites like autopia.org and autogeek.net both are great sites to get some info, as well as great products.

both zoomzoom and I are autopians, so youll see alot random letter and number combinations on there
 
I'm on autopia too. only posted a couple times as I mostly go there to learn....and not just detailing, you have to learn a whole new language. the abbreviations are endless.
 
yeah it took me awhile to figure alot of it out.

whole sentences are comprised of letters and numbers and a word here and there lol
 
I keep it pretty simple:

Wash: Meguiars Gold Class with sheepskin mitt
Dry: The Absorber
Glass: Stoner Invisible Glass
Plastic/Vinyl: 303 Aerospace Protectant
Paint Protection: Klasse All-In-One and Klasse Sealant Glaze
 
eilros25-your 'simple' approach is all using top notch products. I use the stoners glass as well. good stuff. and that gold class shampoo smells good and just plain feels good.

I'm gonna try to work on some before and afters for the first detail on the new mazda 5. it's brilliant black and I already spotted some minor swirls from the dealer prep. told my wife not to let them wash it but she forgot...sure enough they swirled it.
 
Mine is black.... So what do you do when the rental company washed it every day and swirled it.

I've used Meguires cleaner wax for now and that is helping. I want to clay bar the thing and start over sometime. I need to buy some stuff anyway.

Seems like black takes a certain 'system' to look good. If there is anything that REPELS dust I'm all for that.
 
I'm not an expert and as of now, I am not equipped to completely fix my swirls but I am able to get rid of minor ones and hide the rest.

to get rid of them, you can't do it all by hand. Check out autogeek.net and check out the packages offered that include a machine polisher such as a porter cable or UDM (ultimate detailing machine). These 'packages' include a machine, some pads (orange/yellow for polishing, and gray/black for waxing/finishing). more expensive packages also include some polish products.

To see this in action, go to youtube and search 'porter cable pinnacle' and there is a great how to video on a heavily swirled explorer or expedition. You will be amazed with the results....and you'll see how easy it is.
 
OK here's a question for you detailing freaks. :D

I was being a little facetious in my previous post, I actually am quite anal about my cars and do use quality products, special towels, etc when I wash them. I own products from Griots garage and get their catalog to drool over, use Mequire's gold class and Klasse wax but certainly not Armor All... The main hinderance to detailing like I used to do is the fact that I have a long commute, 2 small kids and I'm a homeowner, so I no longer have the time to spend 3 hours washing my car every weekend. I'm pretty lax compared to what I used to be like, but my cars are still cleaner than 99% of other ones on the road.

Anyways, I want to do a machine polish on my VW and have in my toolbox a decent quality DA sander, which is essentially the same thing as a random orbit polisher, as far as I can tell. It is infinitely adjustable as far as speed goes, but I'm not entirely sure how I would make a polishing pad attach to it. When used as a sander the sanding disks are adhesive backed. The only polisher I've used before was years ago and it was just a regular straight drive one and the bonnet slide over and tied in the back. Any comments on how/if I can use this as a polisher? It appears that Griots sells what looks like a DA sander, marketed as an air powered random orbit polisher, so I know it's possible, just not if it's recommended.

Any recommendations on where to get good pads for my DA, if indeed it's possible and recommended to use it as a polisher?
 
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i know they make sander/polisher combos, but alot of the pads available use a velcro backing thats attached to the polisher via a disk taht screws into the polisher. as far as adjustability goes, the speed needs to vary from 1k-5k

certain polishes need a certain rpm to break down. if the sander tops out at 3k, the polish wont break down properly. the PC 7424 and the UDM are a great starting polisher. i personally use the UDM. its not to heavy, and is very comfortable to hold.

the sander you have may be able to double as a car polisher, but you might be limiting yourself to the types of pads you can use.

for pads check out autogeek.net and autopia.org. theres several other sites that sell pads as well, thats just where i go tho.
 
I just checked the specs on my DA, it will go from 0-10k RPM, and it's infintely adjustable via a regulator that's built in. If I need velcro to attach a pad, that's cake, I can just go get a big sticky backed velcro pad from Home Depot and stick it to the backing plate.
 
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