How To: MazdaSpeed6 Spring Only Install

MS64MEE

Member
This How To was a joint effort between Super Car Tastes on Skoda Budget and myself. Super Car was responsible for the bulk of the written instructions and torque specs, while I contributed the pics along with additional details and tips based on my experience with the install with the RPM Sport Springs (but should be applicable to any spring for this car).

The level of detail may be overkill for more experienced members but I figure those people probably won't use this How To anyway. This was written from my perspective as someone with some familiarity/comfort with wrenching and experience with easy bolt on mods BUT little/no experience installing suspension mods. My local shops quoted $300 or more to do this job so DIY definitely paid off. Another benefit of DIY springs that I found, is that I am no longer intimidated by the shock install (when the time comes for Koni Yellows, I'll be doing it myself).

As a first timer with the spring install, I can say that the task is not difficult but was rather tedious (especially compressing the springs). I've read posts of people doing this in 3 hours but it probably took me twice that (budget your time as see fit).
The front springs are much more involved than the rear. The instructions list the rear springs first but not for any particular reason. I’m one of those tackle the hard stuff first so I did the fronts and was glad I did because the rears were a breeze (relatively).

Aside from the basic tools (ratchet and wrenches), a spring compressor and impact wrench were the only things I didn't already have. I "rented" the spring compressor for free from Autozone with their Loan a Tool program and picked up a cheapie electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight for less than $40 (SO glad that I did).

Hope that some of you find this helpful and of course, if you find any errors or important omissions let me know.
=============Tool List================
1. Floor Jack
2. Jack Stands
3. Torque Wrench(es) – capable of 14ft-lbs to 94 ft-lbs
4. Ratchet Set or Wrenches (ratchet recommended) – 12mm, 14mm & 17mm
5. Ratchet Extensions (various)
6. Impact Wrench or Breaker Bar (impact wrench recommended) – 14mm deep socket, 17mm deep socket
7. Small/medium crescent wrench or needle nose vise grips (crescent recommended)
8. Open End Wrench (14 mm)
9. Spring Compressors (Macpherson strut type)

===========Torque Specs==============
----------Front------------
1. Upper 3 nuts (14mm) in engine compartment: 22 - 30 lb ft
2. Bolt (14mm) pinching cup holding shock body: 32 - 39 lb ft
3. Bolt (and possibly nut) (17mm) holding fork to lower control arm: 69 - 94 lb ft
4. Nut (14mm) securing sway bar end link: 32 - 40 lb ft
5. Bolt (12mm) securing brake hose bracket : 14 - 19 lb ft
----------Rear------------
1. Control Arm bolt (17mm): 64 - 86 lb-ft
2. Sway bar end link (14mm): 32 - 45 lb-ft

==========Prep & Disclaimers============
Note: In all cases jack up the respective end of the car, rest it on jackstands, and remove wheel/tire assemblies. Do NOT work perform this installation without securing the car on jackstands and properly preventing the car from being able to move (e.g. wheel chocks).
Disclaimer:
This How To assumes you have basic knowledge of working on cars and the appropriate safety precautions involved. Also, this How To was based on our recollection of performing this installation ourselves plus whatever the manual says (very little actually, as in "Remove in the order indicated in the table").

Errors or omissions are possible so use at your own risk.

============Rear Suspension============
1. Unbolt the rear sway bar link from the lower control arm. The rear sway bar link protrudes through the lower control arm approx midway on the arm. Do this to both sides. This detaches the sway bar from the lower control arms. Look for pics of this in sway bar threads.
Tool: 14mm
Note: Earlier version of this How To showed photos below show the end link unbolted from the swaybar. This is not recommended because the endlinks can cause problems. It's better to unbolt the lower bolt (attached to the control arm).

25pct-R-step1.jpg



2. Place a floor jack under the large cup (actually the lower spring seat) in the lower control arm.
Tip: I found that positioning the jack perpendicular to the car (90 degrees to the driveshaft) seemed to make it easier to remove and reinstall the bolt in step 4.

25pct-R-step2.jpg


25pct-R-step2B.jpg


3. Jack up the lower control arm a bit. This will compress the spring and takes some of the loading off the bolt holding the lower control arm to the hub carrier. The amount it should be compressed is somewhat subjective. See further below.

4. Remove the lower bolt connecting the lower control arm to the hub (and brake disc) carrier. This is a very long bolt (3" - 4"?) that only has threads on the end and runs longitudinally, going from back to front IIRC. This is a major suspension bolt and is torqued down with some force. It may also be frozen somewhat in place by corrosion so don't be surprised if it takes a lot of effort to get loosened off.
Tool: 17mm (impact wrench recommended)
Tip: This is very tight bolt and is much easier to break loose using an impact wrench.

25pct-R-step4.jpg


5. If the bolt seems seized and won't come out after the threads have released try repositioning the lower control arm up and down using the jack. Since the bolt has to pass through a long bore any binding of the parts will cause it to seize somewhat. If necessary help it out with a hammer and thin rod or screwdriver from the other end. Take the bolt out completely.
Tip: Applying pressure on the brake disk assembly (push at top, inwards and slightly upwards helps to relieve some of the binding - do this while pulling or tapping the bolt).

6. Lower the jack so that the lower control arm drops free of the hub carrier (the hub carrier is still held on by the upper control arm).

7. The spring will probably catch in it's lower perch (spring seat) so give the free end of the control arm a good kick down and inwards to force it to swing lower and release the spring. Also, twisting the spring back and forth (about it's long axis) seemed to work well for loosening things up at the top and bottom.
Tip: Make sure the endlink bolts are completely clear of the sway bar before trying to force to the lower control arm. I forgot to do this and damaged the threads on one of my endlinks.
Note: The rubber piece in the spring cup and helical groove with stop for the last coil of the spring. During re-installation, you will need align the spring to this stop.

25pct-R-stepR-2.jpg


8. Remove the stock spring by pulling down on it (the upper spring seat tends to grab it a bit). Again, twisting seems to help here a lot.
Note: Upper spring seat may come out with the spring (black rubber piece with helical surface on one side).

9. Remove and cut the bump stops at this point if you want to reduce their length. The bump stop is obvious, and becomes accessible once you remove the spring.
Note: This can be done with bump stop on the car or removed. Removing the bump stop requires a sort of bending/twisting motion to pop it out and can be a slight PITA. It "snaps" into it's mounting bracket (note the ridge on the bump stop that will fit into a groove in the bracket).

25pct-R-step9.jpg


-----------------Reassembly-----------------------
Installation is reverse but things to watch out for:
1. Spring has small and large end. Small end goes up (top as shown in photo).

25pct-R-stepR-1.jpg


2. Attach the upper spring seat (if it came out) to the new spring. It's obvious how it should go together. Be sure end of last coil is against the stop on the seat.

25pct-R-stepR-2B.jpg


3. Rotate the new spring so that the lower free end (large end) sits properly in the lower spring seat. You can't judge this too well until you swing the control arm back up, jiggle the spring to get it over the cup and then start compressing it with the floor jack. Lower the jack and reposition the spring if necessary. You want to be sure the spring is properly seated. This is what people refer to as "clocking".

25pct-R-stepR-3B.jpg


25pct-R-stepR-3-400x300.jpg


4. Eyeball the holes to try to best align them for the long bolt holding the lower control arm to the hub carrier. Jack the arm up and down as required, using the floor jack, to get the best alignment. You may have to help the bolt in with a few blows from a hammer.

5. Do both springs for both sides before reattaching sway bar end links.
Note: Earlier version of this How To showed the end link detached from swaybar (this is not recommended). If you did this, see tip below:

Tip: If endlink nut will not torque down, then you can use an allen wrench and box wrench. Notice the end link bolt is keyed for an allen wrench. This happened to me on one side and I found the nut was finger loose after a couple of months (not good at all). I had all sorts of strange creaking noises a low speeds (parking lots, stoplights etc) which sounded like they were coming from the front end. After tightening the offending nut, the creaking went away.

WRONG WAY to Detach End Link
25pct-R-step1B.jpg



6. Photo shows spring after installation.

25pct-R-stepR-5.jpg
 
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============Front Suspension===========
-----------Disassembly---------------
1. Remove bolt securing front brake hose bracket to curved suspension upright.
Tool: 12mm
25pct-F-step1.jpg


2. Remove the nut securing the sway bar link to the shock/spring assembly. Do both sides.
Tool: 14mm, wrench or socket

25pct-F-step2B.jpg


25pct-F-step2C.jpg


3. Study the lower part of the shock/spring assembly. Notice that it's a separate piece, with a cup shape on top and a fork below as it wraps around the lower control arm.

25pct-F-step3.jpg


25pct-F-step3B.jpg


------------Steps #4-#7 (start)--------------
Below are two options for the next few steps (4-7). The difference is the sequence to remove the shock/spring assembly. Option 1 was from Super Car's original instructions and Option 2 was an alternative that I experimented with. Each has its pros and cons and roughly equal in difficulty but I found option 2 slightly easier.

Option 1
4. Remove the bolt holding the fork ends to the lower control arm. There is also some kind of damper assembly connected to this.
Tool: 17mm (impact wrench recommended)
Tip: This nut is very tightly torqued plus probably corroded. Impact wrench makes things MUCH easier. Also, it may be necessary to tap out the bolt to remove it.

25pct-F-step4A.jpg


25pct-F-step6C.jpg


5. Loosen or completely remove the upper bolt that cinches down the cup assembly. Notice that the end of the shock body has a ridge to fit into the slot in the cup.
Tool: 14mm, ratchet with long extension helpful here
Tip: Twist and pull down on the fork until the fork is pretty loose and nearly ready to come off.

25pct-F-step5.jpg


25pct-F-step6B.jpg


6. Remove the 3 nuts securing the upper part of the strut. These are located inside the engine compartment. Have somebody hold on to the strut assembly from below so that it doesn't just fall down (you can hold the strut with one hand while using a ratchet with the other).

25pct-F-step6A.jpg


7. The whole assembly will drop down a bit now, as the lower fork can slip further past the lower control arm. Wiggle the end of the shock body out of the cup.

25pct-F-step6B-2.jpg


Option 2
4. Loosen (don't remove) the bolt holding the fork ends to the lower control arm. There is also some kind of damper assembly connected to this. My car had a captive nut but other Mazda6s uses a separate nut.
Tool: 17mm. This bolt is highly torqued per spec and likely corroded so it will be take considerable effort to break loose. Strongly recommend using an impact wrench if you have one.

25pct-F-step4A.jpg


5. Loosen or completely remove the upper bolt that cinches down the cup assembly. Notice that the end of the shock body has a ridge to fit into the slot in the cup.
Tool: 14mm, ratchet with long extension helpful here

25pct-F-step5.jpg


25pct-F-step3B.jpg


6A. Remove the 3 nuts securing the upper part of the strut. These are located inside the engine compartment.
Tool: 14mm

25pct-F-step6A.jpg


6B. Twist and pull up on the upper part of the strut while holding the fork. Wiggle this way until the strut is pretty loose.

25pct-F-step6B.jpg


6C. Tap out the bolt loosened in step 4.
25pct-F-step6C.jpg


7. The whole assembly will drop down a bit now, as the lower fork can slip further past the lower control arm. Wiggle the end of the shock body out of the cup.

25pct-F-step6B-2.jpg


25pct-F-step7.jpg


------------Steps #4-#7 (stop)--------------
8. Remove the spring and shock assembly from the car.

25pct-F-step8.jpg


9. Make a note of the position of the studs on the upper plate to the shock body. One of the studs has to align with the ridge at the bottom of the shock assembly when reinstalling, otherwise things won't line up.(Also, I noticed on mine that there was a hole in the upper spring plate that seemed to match up with a hole in the body of the car. Make a note of this to try to reinstall the same way. Not sure what this is for but might as well re-install it the same way.)

25pct-F-step9.jpg


10. Use spring compressors to compress the spring. Do this enough to take force off the upper spring seat/perch/bearing.
Tip: Make sure the spring compressors are exactly opposite each other; otherwise, spring will get cocked as you compress it (this is more important when installing the new springs). Also, if you want to avoid marring the powder coating of the springs, you can put something between the hooks on the compressors and the spring. I used some thin rubber strips that I laying around the garage. The marks are small and don't impact functionality but if you care, then it's easy to prevent.

25pct-F-step10.jpg


11. Study the nut on the end of the shock shaft on top. Notice how many threads are sticking past the nut. Ensure shaft protrudes same amount when reinstalling. This nut appears to set the pre-load on the bearing assembly.
Tip: I found it helpful to take a high resolution digital photo of each side as I went along (check it by zooming in to make sure it's clear). I did this because my short term memory sucks and because it will be awhile before you get back to this step again during re-installation.

25pct-F-step11.jpg


12. Remove the top nut securing the end of the shock strut to the spring seat. This is usually almost impossible to take off with a wrench or ratchet, as the shock shaft will just spin if steady torque is applied. Two options here (1) Impact wrench and (2) two wrenches – For me, Option 1 only worked on one side so I had to use option 2 for the other. I would probably recommend option 2 especially during reassembly.
Tool: 14mm for nut

* Option 1 – Impact wrench: The usual method is to use an impact wrench, as the sudden impacts break the nut loose before the shaft can spin. .
* Option 2 – Crescent wrench and open end wrench: There are two flat spots on the end of the shaft that you can lock onto with the crescent. You will need to angle the open end wrench. Turn the crescent while holding the open end wrench stationary. Also, you can use needle nose vise grips instead of a crescent but it can leave marks on the shaft.

25pct-F-step12.jpg


13. Remove the top plate/spring seat/strut bearing assembly.
Note how everything assembles. There's a bunch of parts that you can lose track of if you're not being attentive. In the next two steps, there are a few photos at various stages of disassembyl for your reference.

A. Shock, compressed springs and mounting plate.
25pct-F-step13A.jpg


B. Bearing assembly removed from mounting plate
25pct-F-step13E.jpg


C. Note how bearing assembles to the mounting plate (boss of bearing is male and hole of plate is female).
25pct-F-step13D.jpg


14. Remove the spring and release the spring compressors.

A. Exploded view of entire shock/spring assembly after releasing compressors
25pct-F-step13B.jpg


B. Shock boot separated from bump stop assembly and rubber spring seat
25pct-F-step13F.jpg


15. Shorten your bump stops if you're going to do so. A hack saw worked pretty well for me.

16. If you want, remove the gray piece of plastic/rubber on the small end of the spring for use with the new spring. It prevents metal on metal contact between spring and bottom spring seat (on shock). It's attached with some rubber adhesive but comes off fairly easily. Just be careful not to tear it.

-----------Reassembly---------------
Installation is reverse (e.g. compress new spring with spring compressor) but below are a few things to watch out for:

1. Attach gray plastic/rubber cover to small end of spring. Might be advisable to glue this on but I didn't.

25pct-F-stepR-1.jpg


2. Make sure spring is compressed enough to allow upper top plate/spring seat/strut bearing assembly to seat all the way down fully.
Tip: Be sure to attach spring compressors on exactly opposite sides of the spring. Misalignment here will make it harder to attach mounting plate.

3. Make sure end of coil sits properly in lower spring seat. This is the smaller end of the spring.

25pct-F-stepR-2.jpg


4. When reassembling the upper spring seat, you'll notice that the top end of the OEM spring was ground flat; whereas, RPM springs are not. When reassembling things, you'll have to decide whether to re-use the indent created by the OEM spring or not. I have no idea which is better but I chose a virgin spot on the rubber because the original indent looked a bit stressed with small cracks. I think this could be an factor of the differing reports of "settling" after a spring install. For example, someone using a virgin spot like I did might see more settling over time as the rubber got deformed than someone who the original indent which is already fully deformed. This is just speculation so take it for what it's worth.

25pct-F-stepR-4B.jpg


25pct-F-stepR-4C.jpg


5. Align the mounting plate to the plate attached to the bump stop before tightening the top nut. Ensure shock shaft protrudes from top nut the same amount as original (step 11 above) when reinstalling. Use either an impact wrench (option 1) or two wrenches (option 2) method for securing this nut. I found Option 2 allows for easy fine tuning of the final position of the nut but plenty of members have reported using the impact wrench only. You choose. Refer back to the photo you took in step 11 if you have it.

25pct-F-stepR-5B.jpg


25pct-F-stepR-4.jpg


5. Check alignment of top plate (hole in plate, stud to ridge on shock body, as noted in 9 above) before releasing spring compressor. If you don't do this you will have to recompress the spring to free up the upper plate, as it's impossible to turn once there is pressure from the spring.

25pct-F-stepR-5C.jpg
 
Excellent walkthrough! I will be printing this out and working on it soon, along with the Koni installation. As luck would have it, I picked up an electric impact wrench on Boxing Day for $25. :)
 
Did the install today. The write-up here is perfect for it. Thanks a million, MS64MEE!!!!! I did all four corners for springs, and Koni Yellows on the front shocks. Total time was 8 hrs, but that includes me taking about 45 minutes to switch out my fog lamp which was completely shattered.

I did run into an issue with the Koni Yellow rear installation, but only because I haven't found a write-up for the rears and I was already 8 hours into it all. I think I'll get a shop to do the rear shocks for me. I can't figure out the best way to take out the rear shock housing, because it's so cramped in there and I didn't want to disassemble the entire backend of the car. C'est la vie!!!
 
Did the install today. The write-up here is perfect for it. Thanks a million, MS64MEE!!!!! I did all four corners for springs, and Koni Yellows on the front shocks. Total time was 8 hrs, but that includes me taking about 45 minutes to switch out my fog lamp which was completely shattered.

I did run into an issue with the Koni Yellow rear installation, but only because I haven't found a write-up for the rears and I was already 8 hours into it all. I think I'll get a shop to do the rear shocks for me. I can't figure out the best way to take out the rear shock housing, because it's so cramped in there and I didn't want to disassemble the entire backend of the car. C'est la vie!!!
steefnap - glad to hear the how to helped with the springs.

Was your issue with the rear shocks, removing the bolts or removing the mounting bracket? During my spring install, I did a fly by of what would be required to do the rear shocks and it seemed that there's one of the three bolts that attach the top bracket to the body which was nearly impossible to access. IIRC it's the innermost of the three. I test fit a ratcheting box wrench and convinced myself that was the best way to tackle it. For the task, I picked up a set of wrenches that ratchet every 5 degrees (72 clicks per rotation) which I figure will do the job. Haven't done it yet as I don't plan on doing the Koni's for awhile (waiting on stockers to start giving up).
 
The lower portion of the shock was not a problem. It was the upper portion where the mounting bracket is. I couldn't see a way to get any tools up in there that would help me drop the shock down. Maybe I need that ratcheting box wrench you're talking about.
 
Could someone please elaborate on cutting the bump stops? Is it pretty intuitive where you are supposed to cut? What are the ramifications if the bump stops are left in tact? Forgive me, as I have not had a chance to actually dive into this project yet.
 
I cut my bump stops at the first "notch". It's like a little behive with 3 or 4 bulges from top to bottom. I cut the smallest bulge off, making it about an inch shorter than normal.
 
Instructions Updated

How To instructions updated to show better way to detach rear endlinks. Original version said to "detach from lower control arm" yet photos showed endlink detached from sway bar. The former is a much better way to do it. I did the latter and ran into issues where I couldn't fully torque down one side. This caused all sorts of creaking issues which were fixed after I torqued the offending bolt. At any rate, you can avoid those headaches by using the new instructions.
 
Instruction was great...to the tee... drove around and heard some clanking noise right after the install...has anyone experienced this? The best way I can describe it is that it sounds like when you accidentally left the hood just latched and not all the way closed...that metal to metal sound.... anyone experienced these sounds?
 
I have a slight squeak going over bumps, only heard near the rear passenger-side wheel well. Did not happen after I got the springs install, but I heard it after I got the rear Koni yellow shocks installed. You can't hear it if you're listening to music, or have the windows open. Only when it's really quiet. Is yours near the front or the back?
 
For those of you that did this install, did you have any issues removing the endlinks? Are they something you have to take apart carefully?

Reason I ask, when I installed springs on my Protege, the endlinks were basically toast after install. I had to get new ones from the dealer and reinstall them after the springs were done.
 
Soooo..I just wanted to post for all future Installers of springs... So i installed my H&R springs on saturday...The last 3 days i have heard this MEAN clanking noise. Like the guy posted a couple posts above. Sounded kinda like my tire was not all the way tightened down... Let me tell u it was, also every single bolt that is part of the suspension on my front passenger side was also tight... So i my neighbor walked out and asked what i was doing, had him listen when i lifted the car up and down..He said "sounds like it is under the hood"...So i opened the hood and was like there was only 3 nuts....But wait, that middle nut the is on the strut assembly, that was loose....Sooooo i tightened that nut down and guess what, problem solved! So if u have clanking noise check that first! Hope i help 1 person!
 
the squeak you're hearing is the seals on the shock rubbing the shaft. if you want to you can take some kind of penetrating iol, and spray it on the shaft it should go away with that or should go away on it own as well given time.
 
the squeak you're hearing is the seals on the shock rubbing the shaft. if you want to you can take some kind of penetrating iol, and spray it on the shaft it should go away with that or should go away on it own as well given time.

No thats not what it was. I already posted what it was....It was the nut on top being loose.
 
Could someone please elaborate on cutting the bump stops? Is it pretty intuitive where you are supposed to cut? What are the ramifications if the bump stops are left in tact? Forgive me, as I have not had a chance to actually dive into this project yet.

NEVER CUT the Bumpstops unless the application applies for it.. And it tells you how to do it. If not dont do it.

You will bottom out your strut possibly if you do it and its not needed.
 
Wouldn't you need to tighten the top nut more since the spring is shorter to get the full lowering affect on the spring? I mean its shorter so would the shock threads be up higher because I think its suppose to be not sure though.
 
Errr...Clickin noise

I recently installed my H&R Springs and now im hearing that clicking/ding ding noise when i get past about 45mph..i checked all the screws to make sure they are tight. And they all seemed fine. Anyone know anything else that i might need to check to get rid of it?
 
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