MS3 Boost Gauge Install

:
Mazdaspeed3
First I cut the hose connected to the top BOV and spliced a T connector to rejoin the hose. I also added the hose i was going to connect directly to my boost gauge. I used about 10 feet of hose which was more than enough to run it clean and not have to much left over to have to hide.

S5000754.jpg


Then I found where the "bunch O' wires went through the fire wall into the cabin so i didnt need to drill another hole into the firewall. (we all probably know how much fun that is.)

To get to the Wires from the engine bay you have to remove a few things first. Lets start out with the AC piping. Just take off the tiny nut to move the pipe to the right, out of the way.

S5000756.jpg


Then Remove the bolt that holds on the heat shield and bend it just far enough out of the way so you can access the wire bunch in the engine bay

S5000757.jpg


Look at that. The bunch o' wires. You might want to run your hose how you want it in the engine bay at this time because youre not going to have the end of the tube anymore.

S5000758.jpg


To access the wires from inside the car you have to first sit in the passenger seat and remove the decretive moulding that runs over the clock screen and goes all the way to the glove box. To remove it just open the glove box and tug on the center until it pops out. be careful because the end towards the passenger door need to be pulled back by bending the piece a little. its pretty bendy so go ahead just be careful. the side by the clock just pops out but also be careful. it does take a little pulling.

S5000771.jpg


Take out the two screws to the glove box and just pull the glove box from the bottom and it will just pop the whole thing out. also, the light is still
connected to the glove box so take that out. its just one screw.

S5000772.jpg


Behind the glove box is a huge array of fuses and such. to the upper right hand corner is the wire bunch. see? Thats where the hose will run through so it never leaves your dash. just poke a little hole in the boot to slide the tubing through. i did it from the outside because you dont have the wires in the way. Then go back inside and try to stick your finger through it to see if you made a hole and pass the tube through the hole. (its a small pain in the butt but not terrible.)

S5000759.jpg



Now that the tubing is in the car, take the two screws out from the radio and pull the radio out. the radio and thermo knobs are two different units so the clock face and radio will come together as one big unit. Pull out the wires that are attached to the radio and put the radio somewhere you wont bonk it up.

S5000773.jpg


S5000763.jpg


The big harness you removed from the radio will have a bunch of wires going into it. (captain obvious) I found the wire that runs with the parking lights. Its the orange wire with the back strip on the right hand side of the harness. cut and splice your positive wire into it for the gauges light. If you know any other lights that run with the parking lights go ahead and tap into those, but i used my radios lights. I grounded my gauge to the shifter assembly as i was putting in my bushings but you can do it anywhere you have bare metal.

S5000762-1.jpg


Check your set up...nice and clean, almost not even there!

S5000761.jpg


S5000760.jpg


Thats how i installed mine with my lotek gauge pod. what do ya think? not to shabby right? Just reassemble everything the way you removed it and it will look all like new. The gauge pod looks a little off color but my grubby hands were all over it all day so once i used some F1 protectant it looks good as new.

S5000765-1.jpg


Im in the process of figuring out how to make the pods look less "attached". I dont like the screw caps that stick up. although it doesnt look to bad Im in the process of solutions.

S5000766-1.jpg


You can see my apexi TT i mounted to the left of the steering wheel in that empty spot. It looks pretty sweet. No install pics though. sorry....

S5000767-1.jpg


If you have any questions dont hesitate to ask.
 
Last edited:
Where did you run the gauge wires through the dash?

The gauge pod I bought, unfortunately, doesnt just mount to the top. You need to cut a square in the OEM part to allow the gauge pod to sit properly. So i ran the gauges wires through the hole down into the dash behind the vents.

P.S. The middle vents connect directly to ducting in the back so no wires are seen through the vents or anything. Its clean. No wires or anything run between your windshield and dash. Its all hidden.
 
props on the write up MR.Webb nicely done and cant wait to see all of this monday at work. and those screw caps i got a solution for those but that requires some heat and alittle bit of fabricating.. once we have it done we will post pics guys.
 
I ran my boost tube through the hole the hood release goes through. Seemed easier than what you went through.
 
I ran my boost tube through the hole the hood release goes through. Seemed easier than what you went through.

i saw where the hood release went through but knew where the wire custer went so i went for what i knew. nice though. probably was easier than what i did.
 
Excellent! Thanks for posting this. Non related question, How are those intercooler hoses working? Are there worth the $$?
 
Excellent! Thanks for posting this. Non related question, How are those intercooler hoses working? Are there worth the $$?

ummmm, i think id be lying if i said i really noticed. but there was a small increase in boost time. the turbo spooled a bit quicker than before but nothing noticeable like....a new IC or the CAI or anything like that. i bought mine for like...i dont know i think like 20 bucks a piece off of extreme turbo systems. but beware....the 90 i bought was waaaay to short for the fit so make sure your getting something that makes the distance. and you dont need like a 5 ply steel reinforced. well, unless you plan on pushing out like 900 hp and 89463764 psi. lol. mine i think is like a 4 ply polyester reinforced which is def more than enough. anywho, im just rambling now....2....4....niner.
 
I forgot to mention, that you got a sweet install with the dash pod kit!

What other gauges did you install, how did the wiring work for those?
Why did you remove the plastic TMIC shroud?

Ever since trying to mod a guy-ass Honda, I didn't want to have to mod ever again. Cost too much, you know what I'm saying? But I'm open minded, I'd throw in an intake, if it totally increases power noticeable. I'm waiting for the super supremo version by super big name company. I don't think its been produced yet. I mean, who the heck is Fujita or Autoexe anyways? j/k lol

Last question of subject- Does anyone know if there is an expiration date for the engine mount recall? Since I live in Germany, I won't be able to go to a US dealer until next summer when I move back. I haven't tried seeing if the Germany dealers would do it, they would probably end up charging me. But as far as I can tell average German mechanics are close to par with NASCAR/F1 mechanics in terms of equipment, garage conditions, and computerized machines, etc. So maybe it wouldn't hurt to ask... I degress.

Polizei stopped me for having my fog lights on when it wasn't foggy. I love the Polizei. I wished they stopped me to tell me my zipper was undone too. Why are most Polizei females hot? Again, I degress.
 
Nice write up! I'm gonna install my Boost Gauge in the left Vent this weekend so i'll be going through the "hood release". Anyone got any ideas on where to hook up the electrical wires on the left side?
 
Nice write up! I'm gonna install my Boost Gauge in the left Vent this weekend so i'll be going through the "hood release". Anyone got any ideas on where to hook up the electrical wires on the left side?

Ground is under the plastic panel next to the dead pedal. Positive works on ignition wire or accessory wire
 
Has anybody ever definitively decided on the pillar pod for a single gauge? I recall some talk about airbag bad/airbag fine... I want just a boost gauge, looking at the Prosport amber/white mechanical 52mm, and I want it somewhat 'stock' looking. I like someone's install, it's their profile photo, where it's on top of the steering column in between two gauges in a non-obstructive place. But I'd REALLY like a pillar mount, and someone to post pics of a left side install using that hood pull hole.
 
I just bought the prosport mechanical one as well. Waiting for the ups man.
I see that alot of poeple went with electrical and im kind of curious as to why? From what i saw, the opening ceremony is annoying lol.
 
I just bought the prosport mechanical one as well. Waiting for the ups man.
I see that alot of poeple went with electrical and im kind of curious as to why? From what i saw, the opening ceremony is annoying lol.

mine just start up and read what theyre supposed to. no fireworks or magic at start up. mine are mechanical. its the carbon fiber series from autometer. except my useless a/f narrow band. thats electrical. gaaaaaay. but i get the wideband readout through my apexi tt. so my narrow band is a good little light show. if it goes extreme to one side i can check my a/f wideband. so i guess its a sort of good preliminary tell tale sign of an a/f problem. thats what i like to think anyway. haha.
 
Has anybody ever definitively decided on the pillar pod for a single gauge? I recall some talk about airbag bad/airbag fine... I want just a boost gauge, looking at the Prosport amber/white mechanical 52mm, and I want it somewhat 'stock' looking. I like someone's install, it's their profile photo, where it's on top of the steering column in between two gauges in a non-obstructive place. But I'd REALLY like a pillar mount, and someone to post pics of a left side install using that hood pull hole.

*************.com
 
*************.com

That's what I was looking for!

I took the part number and google searched it with 'gauge pod' and came up with 'glowshiftdirect' dot com. They have the pillar single pod for $9.99, 50% less than crossover. Now I'll get my prosport gauge and be set!
 
That's what I was looking for!

I took the part number and google searched it with 'gauge pod' and came up with 'glowshiftdirect' dot com. They have the pillar single pod for $9.99, 50% less than crossover. Now I'll get my prosport gauge and be set!

nice. glad i could help out.

EDIT: hey i just checked that glow shift site and i only saw a pod for the reg 3. if you have a speed you dont want that because the dimensions are different from the reg3 to the speed3 i believe.
 
Back