DSMConvert
AWD...say Bye Bye
- :
- Titanium MS6
Ok since I'm an old school dsmer, I figured who better to write this FIY...who knows maybe it'll even get stickied!
What is this mod:
This mod involves scrapping the crappy plastic bov and swapping it out for a 1g all metal bov that has been modified.
Why should we do this:
It has been widely reported that the stock bov begins to leak at and above 17psi, and there is even a documented case of a stock one exploding. If nothing else it should make you sleep easier knowing that your bov is metal instead of toy car plastic. When modified the 1g bov can hold around 20-22psi before leaking begins.
Where do we get these and which ones:
You are looking for a 1g dsm bov. These were found on the 90-93 DSMs with the 6-bolt engine. THe 2g versions are plastic, you don't want these. The best place to find these is usually ebay or on one of the dsm sites, we're always poor so you'll see garage sales quite frequently to fund for the b16g project. You'll probably pay between $25-$35 for a stock unmodded bov, $45 for a crushed one, and $60ish for a correctly modified one(more on this later). If you are paying more for one of these categories its too much, just wait a few days and you'll find one for those prices...I promise.
What has to be done to make it work on the MS6:
Not a damn thing, this is a direct bolt on. THe only modification required is to the actual bov, which can range from a simple 15min deal(crushed) to a 1hr non-ghetto deal(drilled).
How do we crush it:
Crushing involves exactly what the title implies, usign a vice to crush the bov. Basically in stock form the stock bov comes with a weak spring, which though it doesn't completely open till 17ish psi, begins to be overpowered at around 15psi. To fix this DSMers came up with a way to make the spring hold a higher psi. By crusing the top dome area you shorten the distance of the spring, thus making it harder to compress at lower psi levels. Now the bov is capable of holds around 20-22psi. Now I warn anyone doing this that it is a very exact science to do it correctly. Crush it too much and you'll either A. ruin it and cause it to ALWAYS leak, or B. make the spring tension too much causing compressor surge, which WILL eventually kill your turbo. If done correctly though its fine to crush, I personally just don't like playing guessing games with my mods, especially when I have to tools to do it properly.
So what way do you do it:
Well she likes it from....um I mean oh the bov.... below is the link to the way I would suggest doing the mod.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html
This way ensures that the bov will function properly as well as giving it a slightly quicker response. Generally anyone with a general grasp of automotive skill can do this in under 2hrs. All that is required is basic tools, attention to detail, and patience.
What other nifty info do you have:
well as many of you have deducted our flange is the exact same as the 1g flange, meaning any cheap 1g dsm flange you see on ebay will fit our cars, such as the ssqv adapter, turbosmart, or greddy bolt-on adapters. ON that greddy note, it is also very easy to make the type-s fit our flange WITHOUT buying an adapter. The distance between the bolt holes on a greddy flange is around 1/2" shorter than our stock bov. SO all you need to do is drill 2 additional holes inside the stock hole locations and use the gasket that comes with the greddy. Though hit should be noted if you go back to the stock bov, you will need to plug these holes.
It should also be noted that the evo and evo MR bovs will fit our cars also and will hold 25psi. Those these are damn expensive, and not really worth the extra loot in my book, but none the less they will fit.
BOV specs:
Stock - 17-18psi hold limit
1g stock - 17-18psi hold limit
Crushed/drilled 1g bov - 20-22psi
EVO/MR bov - 25psi
More to come as I remember other tricks.
What is this mod:
This mod involves scrapping the crappy plastic bov and swapping it out for a 1g all metal bov that has been modified.
Why should we do this:
It has been widely reported that the stock bov begins to leak at and above 17psi, and there is even a documented case of a stock one exploding. If nothing else it should make you sleep easier knowing that your bov is metal instead of toy car plastic. When modified the 1g bov can hold around 20-22psi before leaking begins.
Where do we get these and which ones:
You are looking for a 1g dsm bov. These were found on the 90-93 DSMs with the 6-bolt engine. THe 2g versions are plastic, you don't want these. The best place to find these is usually ebay or on one of the dsm sites, we're always poor so you'll see garage sales quite frequently to fund for the b16g project. You'll probably pay between $25-$35 for a stock unmodded bov, $45 for a crushed one, and $60ish for a correctly modified one(more on this later). If you are paying more for one of these categories its too much, just wait a few days and you'll find one for those prices...I promise.
What has to be done to make it work on the MS6:
Not a damn thing, this is a direct bolt on. THe only modification required is to the actual bov, which can range from a simple 15min deal(crushed) to a 1hr non-ghetto deal(drilled).
How do we crush it:
Crushing involves exactly what the title implies, usign a vice to crush the bov. Basically in stock form the stock bov comes with a weak spring, which though it doesn't completely open till 17ish psi, begins to be overpowered at around 15psi. To fix this DSMers came up with a way to make the spring hold a higher psi. By crusing the top dome area you shorten the distance of the spring, thus making it harder to compress at lower psi levels. Now the bov is capable of holds around 20-22psi. Now I warn anyone doing this that it is a very exact science to do it correctly. Crush it too much and you'll either A. ruin it and cause it to ALWAYS leak, or B. make the spring tension too much causing compressor surge, which WILL eventually kill your turbo. If done correctly though its fine to crush, I personally just don't like playing guessing games with my mods, especially when I have to tools to do it properly.
So what way do you do it:
Well she likes it from....um I mean oh the bov.... below is the link to the way I would suggest doing the mod.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html
This way ensures that the bov will function properly as well as giving it a slightly quicker response. Generally anyone with a general grasp of automotive skill can do this in under 2hrs. All that is required is basic tools, attention to detail, and patience.
What other nifty info do you have:
well as many of you have deducted our flange is the exact same as the 1g flange, meaning any cheap 1g dsm flange you see on ebay will fit our cars, such as the ssqv adapter, turbosmart, or greddy bolt-on adapters. ON that greddy note, it is also very easy to make the type-s fit our flange WITHOUT buying an adapter. The distance between the bolt holes on a greddy flange is around 1/2" shorter than our stock bov. SO all you need to do is drill 2 additional holes inside the stock hole locations and use the gasket that comes with the greddy. Though hit should be noted if you go back to the stock bov, you will need to plug these holes.
It should also be noted that the evo and evo MR bovs will fit our cars also and will hold 25psi. Those these are damn expensive, and not really worth the extra loot in my book, but none the less they will fit.
BOV specs:
Stock - 17-18psi hold limit
1g stock - 17-18psi hold limit
Crushed/drilled 1g bov - 20-22psi
EVO/MR bov - 25psi
More to come as I remember other tricks.
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