Installed an Infinity Basslink

Well I installed an Infinity Basslink yesterday. I had this thing in my old Protege5 several years ago and was always pleased with it. It fit perfectly behind the last row in my 5 and is a very nice supplement to the factory system. Install took maybe 30 minutes. Can give pics or instructions if anyone may want to do this also.

rodslinger said:

Well I installed an Infinity Basslink yesterday. I had this thing in my old Protege5 several years ago and was always pleased with it. It fit perfectly behind the last row in my 5 and is a very nice supplement to the factory system. Install took maybe 30 minutes. Can give pics or instructions if anyone may want to do this also.

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Please post some intructions and pictures.....

rodslinger said:

Well I installed an Infinity Basslink yesterday. I had this thing in my old Protege5 several years ago and was always pleased with it. It fit perfectly behind the last row in my 5 and is a very nice supplement to the factory system. Install took maybe 30 minutes. Can give pics or instructions if anyone may want to do this also.

Click to expand...

pics PLEASE & where did you mount it ?

How does it sound ?????

pics please.
thanks.

I'll organize everything and put up the info on Saturday.

send us an email when you do friend thanks

I had a Basslinka few years back, in my Jetta's trunk. You just couldn't hear anything. Course the Jetta was well insulated and th3 5 is open so the sound may be louder. I just think for the money you can get better. A decent 10" is $85, sub enclosure maybe $100 and the rest on a mono 150w amp if you want just the sub amped.

However, seeing that the 5 has truly poor system, I replaced the fronts added a custom sub and amped the fronts and the sub.

Kid Red said:

I had a Basslinka few years back,.... I just think for the money you can get better. ....

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Regular Basslink which is what you had a few years ago can be had for $150 and is what I'm using. The new Basslink II is better and only a few bucks more. A seperate amp/sub in that price range MAY be better but not guaranteed. Also having the amp and sub in a single, compact package is a nice compromise. There is always a tradeoff.

rodslinger said:

Regular Basslink which is what you had a few years ago can be had for $150 and is what I'm using. The new Basslink II is better and only a few bucks more. A seperate amp/sub in that price range MAY be better but not guaranteed. Also having the amp and sub in a single, compact package is a nice compromise. There is always a tradeoff.

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The trunk may have been too tightly sealed and just showed the Basslink wasn't very powerful.

There are a few other enclosures with amps in them as well, you just need to look around. As for the compactness, I have an amp under the front seat, invisible, out of sight and the custom enclosure I made fits in the rear passenger compartment storage. So I lose virtually zero space.

It's here if you want to see the sub-
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2328523

It's great family sound, plenty of bass to fill the car, hits every note, good for hip hop too. However, it's an 8" sub, and I'm thinking about making a new enclosure for a 10" sub for just a little more volume and umph. Just have to figure out placement as I don't want to lose any space, or any more than I have to.

THis is also an idea, tight enclosure for a 10" http://www.cardomain.com/item/QLCQLC1UTC110

I had seen that writeup before. Nice install with the sub. I remember looking behind the rear panels. There is probably enough room to stuff an amp behind the rear trim panels also to keep the under seat space free also.

Doing something like that will probably be where I'll go in the next year or so. But I had the equipment and nothing beats a 30 minute install sometimes.

Sorry to reserrect such an old thread, but rodslinger (or anyone else)...I am going to be installing my Basslink II into my 08 Touring asap and had a few questions. First of all, did you use a line level converter and tap into the rear speaker? If so, how hard was that to do in the 5? If you used another method for the signal input, please share. Lastly, for the turn on lead, did you hook that up to the back of the factory head or did you use the auto-turn on feature? If you hooked up to the factory head, how did you determine which wire to tap?

Thanks...

I just tapped into the rear speaker leads for input. It was super easy to install. With the rear seats folded down, just remove three or four screws on each side to pull back the side panels enough to access the speaker wires. I tapped into those and used the speaker level inputs on the Basslink. The auto turn on feature works well also so only had to run power to the batt and a ground.... Easy as pie...

rodslinger said:

I just tapped into the rear speaker leads for input. It was super easy to install. With the rear seats folded down, just remove three or four screws on each side to pull back the side panels enough to access the speaker wires. I tapped into those and used the speaker level inputs on the Basslink. The auto turn on feature works well also so only had to run power to the batt and a ground.... Easy as pie...

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Great. Thanks rodslinger. Though I don't have the harness for the basslink that I think is needed for the speaker level inputs. But I do have a line output converter, so perhaps I will use that and tap into those rear speakers... Then use the low level inputs (RCA's) on the Basslink. I'll also try to go with the auto turn on...no need to take the dash apart. Thanks again...

rodslinger said:

I just tapped into the rear speaker leads for input. It was super easy to install. With the rear seats folded down, just remove three or four screws on each side to pull back the side panels enough to access the speaker wires. I tapped into those and used the speaker level inputs on the Basslink. The auto turn on feature works well also so only had to run power to the batt and a ground.... Easy as pie...

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It was easy. I did it last weekend. Well, I did it over 2 weekends. Originally I tried using a line output converter...but it was defective. So I ordered the high level output harness, wired it up and it works great. More than enough bass for any type of music using the stock stereo (no amp).

Do you have a pic?

mde8965 said:

It was easy. I did it last weekend. Well, I did it over 2 weekends. Originally I tried using a line output converter...but it was defective. So I ordered the high level output harness, wired it up and it works great. More than enough bass for any type of music using the stock stereo (no amp).

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MDE...,
Where did you end up actually positioning the speaker?

I just picked up my 2008 -- love it, of course -- but definitely miss the subs I had in a Dakota pickup. While the built-in enclosure would be ideal, I am leasing this one so I don't think that's an option. Any extra info or pics detailing where you located the unit and how much work was involved in its connection would be appreciated.

Rodslinger - you mentioned tapping into the rear speaker leads. If I am not able to go the built-in enclosure route, how conspicuous do you think the speaker wires will be? Goal is to make this install as inconspicuous as possible, easy to pull out when lease ends, and not detract too much from storage.

thanks!!

Jazzper said:

MDE...,
Where did you end up actually positioning the speaker?

I just picked up my 2008 -- love it, of course -- but definitely miss the subs I had in a Dakota pickup. While the built-in enclosure would be ideal, I am leasing this one so I don't think that's an option. Any extra info or pics detailing where you located the unit and how much work was involved in its connection would be appreciated.

Rodslinger - you mentioned tapping into the rear speaker leads. If I am not able to go the built-in enclosure route, how conspicuous do you think the speaker wires will be? Goal is to make this install as inconspicuous as possible, easy to pull out when lease ends, and not detract too much from storage.

thanks!!

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It is positioned in the very back, behind the break in the floor where the 3rd row seats fold up. It is caddy cornered to get the most out of the bass (i.e. firing into the rear corner - drivers side). I used bungy cords to go around the units legs and attached to the tie down hook in the corner (drivers side). That way, I can just unplug it if I am carrying something big and need to remove it. I put two yellow wire nuts in the storage/tool tray in the back for when I remove it. And the 3rd row seats can be used with the unit in this position. And when I unplug the unit and put the wire nots on, the wires just tuck under the sub floor...so you cannot tell the sub was ever there.

I tapped into the rear speakers for the signal. It is totally inconspicuous because I ran the wires down behind the side panels and underneath the sub-floor. The power wire was run directly to the battery using 8 gauge wire. That was not that hard either. Just put the wire through the firewall using the same large rubber grommet where the main harness goes through the wall on the passenger side (re-seal hole with silicone when finished). No need to remove the glove box. Just reach way up there and pull the wire down once you have gotten it through the firewall. Running the wire to the back is a pice of cake. All the kick panels (removed by removing one clip and tugging) and door sills (removed by pulling up) are easily removed. As for the ground. When you have the driver side rear panel off to tap into the speaker on that side, you will see an existing ground point below the speaker where other wires are already grounded. Just use that spot to attach your ground wire.

Oh and one more thing, rodslinger was right in the fact that you do not need to entirely remove the side panels from the car. Once you get them loose, there is enough room to get to the wires. I removed the speakers which made it easier to tap into the wires, then reinstalled them when finished. But go slow when undoing the panels. The hidden bolts are located behind the little cargo hooks in the rear corners and behind the rearmost of the two little rectangular removable covers on the side panels where the cargo cover would attach.

My biggest problem was that I did not know which wires were + and - on the left and right speakers, so I guessed. Knowing that I might be wrong, I attached my leads to the basslink's high level harness with spade connectors. Good thing too, because I had guessed worng and they were out of phase. I know that because when I turned on the music, there was almost no bass output, but when I put the balance all to the right or left channel, there was lots and it got less and less as I went to center. So with my spade connections, I just changed up the left + and - connection and all was well. I could have come back here and asked about the wires, but I was anxious to get it done once I started. The whole project took about 3 hours and I was taking my time...