ATP 3071R complete kit install

Step 1:
Remove 2nd cat and remove 2nd O2 sensor (make sure to work sensor in/out and don't force. Use lot's of PTB. Also remove the pipe between 1st cat and 2nd cat (curved pipe about 8" long)



Picture of my ATP VES (virtual exhaust system aka boost activated cutout).



Step 2.
Remove factory intercooler (in my case pictures show the custom liquid to air IC I had made)



More pics of Step 2



More pics of Step 2



Step 3.
Remove heat shields from the top of the exhaust manifold and around the turbo.



Pictures of heat shields removed.



Pictures of heat shields removed.



Pictures of heat shields removed.



Step 4.
Remove exhaust manifold (the bolt underneath the manifold is FUN!!! - we used a 14mm ratcheting closed end wrench)



More pics of factory exhaust manifold removed



Another picture of factory exhaust manifold removed



Another picture of factory exhaust manifold removed



Step 5.
Remove catalytic converter up through the top of the motor as it comes right out!



Pictures of cat out






Step 6.
Remove factory intake system and misc lines and bolts from the factory turbo. Remove the battery tray as it allows access to the a bolt on the drivers side that secures the turbo as well. Remove the oil and coolant lines from the factory turbo.



Comparison pictue of the stock vs 3071R Turbo



Step 7.
Put the 3071R turbo back in where the factory turbo came out!





More to come tomorrow!!!

I forgot to put in, remove the hood once you put the car back on the ground!!!
My head is still killling me from hitting it so much.

WOW! Cant wait to see what this bad boy does for you Props to you my friend

Incredible stuff!

Cant wait to see more pics, including one of the smile on your face after the first test drive!

nice pictures. Looks to becomeing along nicely.

I wanna see what kind of difference you get out of a this(I had no idea the stocker was so pathetic)

ATP got 310 WHP out of their stock MS6 with this kit. I'm hoping for the same or better...

Once the XEDE goes in I'm hoping for 350 to 375 WHP (pray for 400???)

U are the man 4DR!!!!

Just got home, here's my current situation:
1. ATP turbo kit is in!!! Yay!!! Took us a TON longer than expected due to 1.5 hours of getting the turbo to line up with the exhaust manifold. The stock bracket on the passenger side of the vehicle was holding it up but we couldn't see that.
2. I am EXHAUASTED so no new pics/write up tonight.
3. The car us MUCH faster however my EBC is not controlling it correctly and it's letting it hit fuel cut. I think it may be broken but not for sure...
4. The intake that came with the kit wouldn't work with the stock battery and mount plate and the various hoses it came with wouldn't fit for me. I'm was in food deprevation/brain numb state of mind so I couldn't think of a good way to make it work and look good. I'll post pics but it's UGLY. I also had to quickly mount an Optima and mounting plate in the stock battery's place.
5. I didn't have time to put my VES back in so I'm DP into stock exhaust...
I was able to drive the car home and everything seems to be working well.

I'll post more up tomorrow with pics etc to show where the kit is at and what I'm going to do to make my install better and work with ATP to try and see if they can't make it a bit easier to install.

Mike

WOW can't wait to see more. I really like that v-band setup that ATP does, does it work well?

Kansei said:

WOW can't wait to see more. I really like that v-band setup that ATP does, does it work well?

Click to expand...

Yes, I can install and de-install the DP in about 5 minutes now...

I hate you for that.. I still haven't figured out how to bolt the last bolt on my corksport downpipe (mazdaspeed protege turbo kit) (http://picasaweb.google.com/clauretano/TurboProject/photo#5013404423119783218)

Wow. Going to beef up the drive line at all to handle all this HP? And I guess warranty is out the window?

Awesome set up.

BTW: Lived in Tempe for 12 years...I miss AZ.

Remove the passenger side turbo bracket that is attached to the back of the motor.
If you don't you can't get the turbo in place correctly.
Disconnect the O2 wiring harnesses (easiest to unbolt the bracket that holds them down and disconnect from the holder by the turbo)
and the wire harness bracket that's in the way of the new intake.
Also remove the hard plastic holder for the wire loom as you'll need to move that around.
Remove the boost solenoid from the factory turbo. Cap the shorter of the two hoses and remember to attach the
longer line to the intake.
Disconnect the oil line from the canister as seen here.


Straighten out the oil line that attaches to the turbo as seen here and connect it to the turbo.
Remove the studs from the turbo.

Attach bottom oil line gasket to the turbo using a couple of drops of RTV to hold it in place.
Put the turbo in the behind the motor and bolt it to the hard line using the nuts supplied in the kit.
Attach the coolant banjo bolt to the turbo and reattach the line removed above.
You'll have the bottom oil line and the oil hard line bolted to back of turbo alone with the already
connected coolant line (braided steel) and another coolant line attached via banjo bolt.
Attach the braided steel coolant line to the motor. Make sure the braided steel line is not over the top of the WGA rod.


Picture of the wiring harness with the cover removed

Reinstall the exhaust manifold and move the turbo into place and bolt together using the studs.
Don't forget to reuse the factory metal gasket.
The realigning of the turbo can take some time, if you forgot to remove the factory turbo bracket on the passenger side of the motor, you can't line up the turbo. (2nd warning!!!)


Reinstall the heatshield to the factory exhaust manifold.


Attach quick tap to the new hose between turbo and IC (hose supplied in kit) and reinstall the IC.
If you didn't have a cold air already, you have to remove the inner fender and install the filter.


It's tricky but you can route the new intake through the wire loom and install it.



I was unable to use the factory battery hold down and had to purchase an Optima. The good news is it takes about 5 minutes to install as you just drill holes through the install plate supplied with the battery.

Another pic of the Optima and modified factory bracket.

More Optima pictures


The connection of the MAF sensor housing, and the various silicone tubing


I was uanble to get the supplied tubing to go from the new intake to the blow off valve and the crank case vent tube.
We'll fab up something this week to make it look better


An overall look at the various tubes, hoses and wires.