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K&N Filter for the 5
- Thread starter opus
- Start date
dommo_g said:It's the same filter. Fram part number is the same, and the K&N part number is the same.
I have tried the K&N website, and they only show the typhoon cold air intake system for the Mazda5. I think it is funny on the Fram sight that when you search under air filters, it does not show any match, but when you look under general search it shows an air filter match. Might just take the factory filter up to Autozone and see if it matches the design and dimensions of the K&N that they have. Should make for an interesting project.
WhitewaterPearl
Member
- :
- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
opus said:I have tried the K&N website, and they only show the typhoon cold air intake system for the Mazda5. I think it is funny on the Fram sight that when you search under air filters, it does not show any match, but when you look under general search it shows an air filter match. Might just take the factory filter up to Autozone and see if it matches the design and dimensions of the K&N that they have. Should make for an interesting project.
No need to do that. P/N: 33-2293 is the correct filter.
Yeah, no need to do that. Two people have already told you it's the same filter. You can verify on www.autozone.com if you want.WhitewaterPearl said:No need to do that. P/N: 33-2293 is the correct filter.
- :
- 2006 Mazda 5 GT 5spd
Do the K+N filters really work as they claim? ie more horsepower...
If so, is it really noticeable? And is that the high performance model?
If so, is it really noticeable? And is that the high performance model?
mazdaFIVEmike said:Do the K+N filters really work as they claim? ie more horsepower...
If so, is it really noticeable? And is that the high performance model?
Try this link. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm
It goes over cloth vs paper elements and allows you to make an informed decision.
was98strat
Member
irloyal said:Try this link. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm
It goes over cloth vs paper elements and allows you to make an informed decision.
After reading that article. I think I'll stick with the stock fiberous filters. The amount of particulate that the "high performancesfilters" passed was disappointing!!
But I guess there's not beating the physics of it. If you want to stop alot of dirt, the filter can't be really free-flowing!
Thanks for that link, it is very informative.
It reminds me of the throttle body/plenum tests I did on my 2003 Mustang GT for www.modulardepot.com It was a big PITA changing those out and dyno-ing the car. I'm glad I don't have to do that again.
Matt
It reminds me of the throttle body/plenum tests I did on my 2003 Mustang GT for www.modulardepot.com It was a big PITA changing those out and dyno-ing the car. I'm glad I don't have to do that again.
Matt
mazdaFIVEmike said:Do the K+N filters really work as they claim? ie more horsepower...
If so, is it really noticeable? And is that the high performance model?
Real world posts from various forums I am/was a member of indicates that you will 'feel' a modest gain from this minor mod. I personally have felt that with 4 cyl engines, installing a K&N filter robs the car of low end grunt (torque) but improves engine breathing in the upper RPM range (above 3000 rpm). I did find though (as well as other folks' observations) that the increased air being let into the engine results in better gas mileage.
So this is the trade off: better gas mileage (may be minimal) vs. losing a bit of low end power. It boils down to what your intentions are.
IMO, investing in a CAI might give you more performance for the buck. It will be a more involved install process, but the gains (more power and better fuel economy) may be worth it for you. I suggest too not to go with a SR as SR will only suck air from an already warm/hot engine bay which defeats the purpose of having a high performance filter in the first place.
BITOG review of the filter is genuine hard data folks. Lots of annecdotal stuff out here on the web regarding "real world" and "seat of the pants" improvements are nothing but somebodies opinion.
If you really want to see a gain, you have to view the entire intake, combustion,exhaust as a system and modify it appropriately to get real results.
My advice (which along with $1 gets coffee at McDonalds) is if you REALLY want to get some extra HP/Torque gains, is to do an intake mod, get headers and a non-restrictive exhaust system, and get a reliable electronics mod to change the spark timing, O2 monitoring, and rev limiting in the electronics. Then you will need to do chassis dyno testing (before and after each mod) to really tell you if you are moving in the right direction. You also have to buy in to the fact that you'll need to get an oil analysis program going and get into more frequent oil changes. If you do it any other way, you risk a significantly reduced engine life. All IMHO of course.
If you really want to see a gain, you have to view the entire intake, combustion,exhaust as a system and modify it appropriately to get real results.
My advice (which along with $1 gets coffee at McDonalds) is if you REALLY want to get some extra HP/Torque gains, is to do an intake mod, get headers and a non-restrictive exhaust system, and get a reliable electronics mod to change the spark timing, O2 monitoring, and rev limiting in the electronics. Then you will need to do chassis dyno testing (before and after each mod) to really tell you if you are moving in the right direction. You also have to buy in to the fact that you'll need to get an oil analysis program going and get into more frequent oil changes. If you do it any other way, you risk a significantly reduced engine life. All IMHO of course.
I don't agree with this. While at first you'll be running slightly lean, it's my understanding that a car's engine will eventually "learn" the new air/fuel mixture and compensate back to spec by pumping in more gas, otherwise the engine would always be burning slightly lean... possibly causing damage over time. Therefore, anything that increases airflow should drop fuel economy. If I'm wrong with that reasoning, somebody please correct me.martman said:I did find though (as well as other folks' observations) that the increased air being let into the engine results in better gas mileage...
...IMO, investing in a CAI might give you more performance for the buck. It will be a more involved install process, but the gains (more power and better fuel economy) may be worth it for you.
Back on subject, just replacing the air filter to a K&N isn't worth it IMO... it's probably only good for a HP or two, which isn't really noticeable by the good 'ol butt dyno IMO. (moon)
martman said:IMO, investing in a CAI might give you more performance for the buck. It will be a more involved install process, but the gains (more power and better fuel economy) may be worth it for you. I suggest too not to go with a SR as SR will only suck air from an already warm/hot engine bay which defeats the purpose of having a high performance filter in the first place.
I agree, but wouldn't the CAI void my warranty? I noticed substantially better high end breathing in my Saturn SW2 with the 1.9l twin-cam. No test data, just the old rump dyno readings to go on. I would happily put an aftermarket exhaust and intake on the vehicle, but I do not wan to void that precious warranty protection.
jandree22 said:I don't agree with this. While at first you'll be running slightly lean, it's my understanding that a car's engine will eventually "learn" the new air/fuel mixture and compensate back to spec by pumping in more gas, otherwise the engine would always be burning slightly lean... possibly causing damage over time. Therefore, anything that increases airflow should drop fuel economy. If I'm wrong with that reasoning, somebody please correct me.
(moon)
A CAI won't make your car run lean. CAIs do make your car run worse, because it is taking in under hood air which is significantly higher than outside ambient air. It might take in MORE air, but it is HOTTER air. Why don't manufacturers make cars with CAI? This is why. The factory system takes in air that is NOT from under the hood.
Back to the lean statement. Your computer reads the incoming air and compensates for it. Period. The computer doesn't know where the air is coming from, nor does it care. It reads the stats and adjusts for it.
I had a 2003 Mustang GT, my first mod was full exhaust (ceramic polished headers, offroad X pipe, and Magnaflow catback. I dynod the car before and after and gained 19 RWHP and 23 RWTQ. Then I modded the intake (Accufab 75 MM throttle body and plenum and K&N style filter) and the results were significantly less than my exhaust (about 10 RWHP).
I've found that car manufacturers are pretty much squeeze every bit of HP practical that they can. I was able to get my car up to over 400 RWHP, but it took a Kenne Bell twin screw supercharger. I had it on for over 30k miles before I sold it, and it was still as strong as the day I installed the blower.
Matt
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This was kind of my point. Even if you're some how taking in more air, the computer will compensate and start sucking more gas, too... consequently, in theory reducing the gas mileage.MD5 said:Back to the lean statement. Your computer reads the incoming air and compensates for it. Period. The computer doesn't know where the air is coming from, nor does it care. It reads the stats and adjusts for it.
MD5 said:A CAI won't make your car run lean. CAIs do make your car run worse, because it is taking in under hood air which is significantly higher than outside ambient air. It might take in MORE air, but it is HOTTER air. Why don't manufacturers make cars with CAI? This is why. The factory system takes in air that is NOT from under the hood.
Matt
Uhhmmm I think you got your abbreviations mixed up, my friend. I am pretty sure you are referring to SR (Short Ram) intakes which is still the same cone style filter, but has a short tube leading to the thottle body intake. SRs as per my earlier statement is not something I would recommend as the nature of the short ram intake allows the intake to draw air from an inherently hot environment, your engine bay.
CAI (Cold Air Intake) as the name implies, draws cold air from outside the engine compartment. Usually, manufacturers like AEM, INJEN and SIMOTA, to name a few lead a pipe to the inner fender of cars where the filter will reside. Some manufacturers enclose the filter in a housing that also draws cold air from outside the engine bay.
So, your above argument really is incorrect, per the terminology you were using.
At the end of the day, aftermarket filters like K&N drop in filter may have minimal if not negligible benefits. As someone else had posted on here, to really get the performance gains, one might as well go all out and invest in a free flowing exhaust system, a less restrictive exhaust system, and tune the engine management system to optimize these mods.
While you're at it, you might as well mod the suspension with strut bars, lower the car, etc for better handling since your car is now that much quicker. But, that is for another thread.
Peace!
"CAI" has become synonymous with anything that has an open underhood filter.
You are correct that the best CAI has a housing, or puts the filter in the wheelwell, with a seperator to keep the hot engine air away from the intake.
The following is information from Kenne Bell:
LOCATION - When will the rest get this right? Never, never locate an exposed air filter in the engine compartment where the temperature can be 150 hotter (+10=1%HP loss) and result in up to 50HP loss! We figured out a way to securely mount and protect it in the fenderwell where it's surrounded by cool air. And this is the only area large enough to accept the required 12" filter. The other major problem avoided with a fenderwell location is "fan wash" (fan air disrupting laminar air flow into the meter). Why do you think they put those little metal "shields" on the aftermarket MAF/"exposed" filters?
Matt
You are correct that the best CAI has a housing, or puts the filter in the wheelwell, with a seperator to keep the hot engine air away from the intake.
The following is information from Kenne Bell:
LOCATION - When will the rest get this right? Never, never locate an exposed air filter in the engine compartment where the temperature can be 150 hotter (+10=1%HP loss) and result in up to 50HP loss! We figured out a way to securely mount and protect it in the fenderwell where it's surrounded by cool air. And this is the only area large enough to accept the required 12" filter. The other major problem avoided with a fenderwell location is "fan wash" (fan air disrupting laminar air flow into the meter). Why do you think they put those little metal "shields" on the aftermarket MAF/"exposed" filters?
Matt
- :
- 2006 Mazda 5 GT 5spd
Wow! Thanks for all the info guys. I didn't realize it was such a complicated matter. As I am not quite ready for a full exhaust mod - I think I'll stick with stock.
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