Who has DIY replaced the rear speakers?
- Thread starter dsulli37
- Start date
They've been replaced, not sure but I think over at mpvclub.com and there are also owner manual images of removing all the panels. The thrid row seats need to be removed in order to get to the rear panels. There really isn't a need to replace them when considering the work needed and little gained. I'd spend the time and effort elsewhere and leave the rears as is-and I'm sure chuyler1 will attest 
Yup. If you are investing in new speakers, it is much better to spend $200 on a nice set for the front than to spend $100 each on two mediocre sets.
We went through all of this with Kid_Red a few months ago and he decided to get a pair of nice speakers for the front, a 4 channel amp, and an 8" subwoofer for the rear.
We went through all of this with Kid_Red a few months ago and he decided to get a pair of nice speakers for the front, a 4 channel amp, and an 8" subwoofer for the rear.
True. My system is really sounding good. I added some deadening material to the rear spare tire area and two front doors so far (will do the rear doors and lift gate soon), and finally got the amped tweaked to where I think it's perfect. Bass is clean and hard at full volume and Polk Momos are performing admirably.
I believe Red mounted his under one of the front seats.
Many amps these days have speaker-wire inputs. You need to remove the stock head unit to tap into the speaker-wire outputs. Run a set of wires to the amp, and then run a set of wires to the doors and the subwoofer(s) (or if you are lazy run them back to the head unit and tap into the wires going to the speakers from there).
Then you need to run a power wire from the battery, through the firewall, and to the amp. The amp also needs a ground wire which can be run to a nearby seatbelt bolt.
Some amps (usually when not using speaker-level inputs) also require a turn-on or remote wire which tells the amp when to turn on. If you have an aftermarket deck there will be an output for this. If you do not have an aftermarket unit you will have to tap into the accessory or ignition wire. I usually just find the fuse for the radio in my fuse box and wrap the wire around it and shove it back in. I know it's not elegant but it works.
Many amps these days have speaker-wire inputs. You need to remove the stock head unit to tap into the speaker-wire outputs. Run a set of wires to the amp, and then run a set of wires to the doors and the subwoofer(s) (or if you are lazy run them back to the head unit and tap into the wires going to the speakers from there).
Then you need to run a power wire from the battery, through the firewall, and to the amp. The amp also needs a ground wire which can be run to a nearby seatbelt bolt.
Some amps (usually when not using speaker-level inputs) also require a turn-on or remote wire which tells the amp when to turn on. If you have an aftermarket deck there will be an output for this. If you do not have an aftermarket unit you will have to tap into the accessory or ignition wire. I usually just find the fuse for the radio in my fuse box and wrap the wire around it and shove it back in. I know it's not elegant but it works.
I was actually considering the glove box for my DVD player.
Zoom, did you ever have a car amp before? Especially when powering a sub (bass) and in the summer, they get HOT. So much so that I'd be concerned about it possibly melting the plastic in the glove box. Plus the confined space of the glove box will trap the heat and send the amplifier into thermal protection mode, in other words, automatically shut it off until it cools down. Maybe it'd be okay... I doubt it's ever been tried before simply because most glovebox's aren't big enough in the first place.
Zoom, did you ever have a car amp before? Especially when powering a sub (bass) and in the summer, they get HOT. So much so that I'd be concerned about it possibly melting the plastic in the glove box. Plus the confined space of the glove box will trap the heat and send the amplifier into thermal protection mode, in other words, automatically shut it off until it cools down. Maybe it'd be okay... I doubt it's ever been tried before simply because most glovebox's aren't big enough in the first place.
Yea, I would not put an amp in the glove box, at least not if it's going to a sub. Too many wires run behind and under the glove box to chance the heat, melted plastic, mounting it to thin plastic, etc.
I placed mine under the front passenger seat, it's the Alpine F250 and is like 10"x11"x2" and fits fine.
I placed mine under the front passenger seat, it's the Alpine F250 and is like 10"x11"x2" and fits fine.
chuyler1 said:
chuyler1, why would you get an amp turn on from the fuse box, especially when you already have the radio out to get the speaker level signal? Why not just get the same power from behind the radio? Save yourself a step and you won't do damage to the fuse box.
