Cold Air Intake, Light Fly Wheel and Sports Clutch
- Thread starter Nando 6i
- Start date
- :
- 96 Miata M-Edition, 2015 Mazda 3 Hatch
Your car...but its generally advised when there is an adjustment period on the car, to hold off on mods.
Additionally on the 6, both engines build power over time (up to around 20k-30k miles), so its generally better to hold off on mods as long as possible.
The 6 has a 12,000 mile, 1 yr adjustment period. The 6s gains about 10-20 whp as it ages without modification.
Additionally on the 6, both engines build power over time (up to around 20k-30k miles), so its generally better to hold off on mods as long as possible.
The 6 has a 12,000 mile, 1 yr adjustment period. The 6s gains about 10-20 whp as it ages without modification.
crossbow said:
No disrespect intended, but what do you base this upon? We all know that engine tolerances are much tighter these days and that over time as the engine "Losens up" you will have H.P. Gains. What is the difference if there is a CAI or even exhaust mods in the picture? I cant see how that would ever effect any "Adjustment Period" because when adjustments are made the MODS are already in place. I have modded past autos, CRX, Accords, Civics, Integras and my CLS..why should my mazda be different?
My understanding of Hondas Engine Management Systems is that it adjusts itself to ambient conditions..Example: Add a CAI...it senses the increase in air intake volune and adjusts accordingly. Is Mazda different? If so, I better put my Airbox back to stock. (confused)
OK...I found this and agree it is indeed "Different" but still see no reason not to add a CAI. (dunno)
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=14&Itemid=33
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=14&Itemid=33
The primary reason is just for the adjustment period.
1) Its easier to diagnose a car thats not been modded.
2) Its easier to get the dealer to work and replace stuff on a car thats not been modded.
The mazda adjustment period is an awesome period...they'll replace EVERYTHING under warranty. Pretty much the only thing not covered is the tires. Even the clutch is covered.
If you immediately start modding a car after you get it, you'll never have a chance to see if there was something wrong with the car stock. You'll assume it was due to the modifications you performed...and go right past the adjustment period never knowing something was wrong with the car stock.
On a new car I personally feel its important to verify everything is "ok" prior to tearing the stock components apart. This also gives time for proper breakin for all components (not just the fast/quick ring seating).
As for intakes...on the 6 all intakes change the Air/Fuel ratio...most of them change it enough to throw too lean codes. Though its been shown this really doesn't effect the upper rpm ranges, do you really want to be running around with lean fuel ratios during your engines breakin period?
Of course the CP-E systems correct these conditions, but also majorly change the fuel curve, especially in the upper rpm's...again this is not a simple adjustment, but a rather major change to the car's overall tuning.
Its always up to the end user whether or not to mod early or not...I'm just making personal recommendations based on my limited experience.
As mentioned earlier, the car WILL gain power as it ages, whether or not you stick tubes on it. Car's have gained as much as 15 whp just by putting on miles. (Based on owner dyno's at various mileage intervals)
1) Its easier to diagnose a car thats not been modded.
2) Its easier to get the dealer to work and replace stuff on a car thats not been modded.
The mazda adjustment period is an awesome period...they'll replace EVERYTHING under warranty. Pretty much the only thing not covered is the tires. Even the clutch is covered.
If you immediately start modding a car after you get it, you'll never have a chance to see if there was something wrong with the car stock. You'll assume it was due to the modifications you performed...and go right past the adjustment period never knowing something was wrong with the car stock.
On a new car I personally feel its important to verify everything is "ok" prior to tearing the stock components apart. This also gives time for proper breakin for all components (not just the fast/quick ring seating).
As for intakes...on the 6 all intakes change the Air/Fuel ratio...most of them change it enough to throw too lean codes. Though its been shown this really doesn't effect the upper rpm ranges, do you really want to be running around with lean fuel ratios during your engines breakin period?
Of course the CP-E systems correct these conditions, but also majorly change the fuel curve, especially in the upper rpm's...again this is not a simple adjustment, but a rather major change to the car's overall tuning.
Its always up to the end user whether or not to mod early or not...I'm just making personal recommendations based on my limited experience.
As mentioned earlier, the car WILL gain power as it ages, whether or not you stick tubes on it. Car's have gained as much as 15 whp just by putting on miles. (Based on owner dyno's at various mileage intervals)
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So, you are suggesting to wait for about 1 year (12K miles) before modding?
Change in subject (just this once) (boom07) , the 6's (as far as I know the 6i have a plastic cover on top of the engine (Engine Warmer?). Would this engine cover keep the engine from cooling down quicker? I am assuming this captures the heat from the engine and therefore not letting the engine breathe properly...would this be true?
(first)
Change in subject (just this once) (boom07) , the 6's (as far as I know the 6i have a plastic cover on top of the engine (Engine Warmer?). Would this engine cover keep the engine from cooling down quicker? I am assuming this captures the heat from the engine and therefore not letting the engine breathe properly...would this be true?
(first)
crossbow said:
http://www.cp-e.com/home.php
Intake FAQ
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about25.html
CP-E FAQ
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about1009.html
Honestly some 6i owners who have tried both have not noticed a big change between the AEM CAI and the CP-E CAI for the 6i. The 6i has a much better stock A/F ratio then the 6s, so the air/fuel tuning really isn't necessary as much.
If your worried about expense, just pickup an AEM CAI, you'll be quite happy!
Intake FAQ
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about25.html
CP-E FAQ
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about1009.html
Honestly some 6i owners who have tried both have not noticed a big change between the AEM CAI and the CP-E CAI for the 6i. The 6i has a much better stock A/F ratio then the 6s, so the air/fuel tuning really isn't necessary as much.
If your worried about expense, just pickup an AEM CAI, you'll be quite happy!
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