Lowering springs

triston2469

Member
:
Mazda 6i
I am thinking about lowering my car but I dont know how low to go. I have found a pair of 2" lowering springs for $75 brand new. I just dont know if 2 inches is too low. I know it will end up being really low then and I am worried it will be too low. Please tell me what you guys think.
 
If you live in an area with fairly smooth roads and have mild winters than I wouldnt worry about a 2 inch drop, should be ok.
 
More then a 1 inch drop will cut your rear shock longevity to 1/3 normal. A 2 inch drop will cause your rear shocks to start leaking around 20k miles.

By the 6's design, there is very little default shock travel. Any excessive lowering causes the car to ride on the bump stops, which is very bad for the shocks, and even worse for unpredicable handling.

If your lowering for looks, just put about 120 on the side to replace your rear shocks in another 20-30k miles. (120 for both).

http://forum.mazda6tech.com/viewtopic.php?t=3035&start=0
 
Yeah if you wanna drop that low coilovers would be a better deal to save up. After you replace the shocks with the koni yelows, mazdaspeed shocks(corksport), or auto exe(corksport) the price you paid in springs and shocks will be almost $100 shorta D2 coilover kit. $100 short is if you didn't pay a shop to install the springs and struts ;)
 
crossbow said:
More then a 1 inch drop will cut your rear shock longevity to 1/3 normal. A 2 inch drop will cause your rear shocks to start leaking around 20k miles.

By the 6's design, there is very little default shock travel. Any excessive lowering causes the car to ride on the bump stops, which is very bad for the shocks, and even worse for unpredicable handling.

If your lowering for looks, just put about 120 on the side to replace your rear shocks in another 20-30k miles. (120 for both).

http://forum.mazda6tech.com/viewtopic.php?t=3035&start=0

Well when i get the money saved up then i am going to buy some new shocks anyway. i am going to buy some racing shocks. Thanks everyone
 
There aren't any racing shocks other then konis, which require you to cut the front struts.

The only package which offers both rear and front shocks, with springs, is adjustable coilovers.
 
crossbow said:
More then a 1 inch drop will cut your rear shock longevity to 1/3 normal. A 2 inch drop will cause your rear shocks to start leaking around 20k miles.

By the 6's design, there is very little default shock travel. Any excessive lowering causes the car to ride on the bump stops, which is very bad for the shocks, and even worse for unpredicable handling.

If your lowering for looks, just put about 120 on the side to replace your rear shocks in another 20-30k miles. (120 for both).

http://forum.mazda6tech.com/viewtopic.php?t=3035&start=0

None of this I knew. You stun me once again with new info.
 
crossbow said:
There aren't any racing shocks other then konis, which require you to cut the front struts.

The only package which offers both rear and front shocks, with springs, is adjustable coilovers.

I guess you guys still haven't got the Bilstein Damper in store... I was on Bilstein B8 (specially made damper for lowered cars)

check the picture

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v660/mazdakaki/P1010773.jpg
 
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The blisten damper is only for atenzas. Mazda 6's (US/Canada) can't use them.

There isn't yet a blisten shock set available for the US. :(
 
if our cars werent made in the same plant as the mustangs... I have the konis(since febuary) and it's been hell trying to find a shop that will do the fronts! I even took the shocks off the car and removed the springs and bumpstops but nor myself or any of the guys in the shop could figure out where koni was measuring from since the entire instruction manul is pictures only. Some people are like wow we are just soo over negative but when you have been where we have been to waste the money and time, we only do it to prevent you from the going thru it to ;) slaming the car too far can also cancel out the benefit of lowering the car.
 
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I dont see the point in lowering the car. It already handles extremely well stock. My V6 is actually extremel agile in corners and I dont seem to experience the excessive understeer that others describe which is probably due to the fact that since I have a hatch there is more weight in the back of the car and it is better balanced. Just my $0.02

Crossbow will probably suprise me yet again with a new theory lol
 
you need to personaly see what a V6 and I4 handeling is like in extreme conditions ;) then when lowered and on better than stock tires. Springs alone can lessen the nose dive when braking hard. Combination of Aftermarket Springs/Coilovers and rear sway bar are unbelevable!
 
Mikey444 said:
I dont see the point in lowering the car. It already handles extremely well stock. My V6 is actually extremel agile in corners and I dont seem to experience the excessive understeer that others describe which is probably due to the fact that since I have a hatch there is more weight in the back of the car and it is better balanced. Just my $0.02

Crossbow will probably suprise me yet again with a new theory lol

Well being that you have the V6, you probably have the 17" rims and low pro tires. Mine is a 4 Cyl with the 16" rims and tall tires. I think that lowering my car will do alot for it. As far as handling, it does handle well, but I just want to be able to go faster around corners. My next move after springs is going to ba strut tower brace. I know those help out alot.
 
triston2469 said:
Well being that you have the V6, you probably have the 17" rims and low pro tires. Mine is a 4 Cyl with the 16" rims and tall tires. I think that lowering my car will do alot for it. As far as handling, it does handle well, but I just want to be able to go faster around corners. My next move after springs is going to ba strut tower brace. I know those help out alot.
Larger swaybars would allow you to "to be able to go faster around corners." :2cents:
 
The standard 6 is designed to understeer for safety. There's a ton of unreleased potential in the car, which is why you see it beating the bmw's in the SCCA World Challenge races.

Our primary issue is we don't have adjustable front camber. Thus the only way to get negative front camber is to drop the car. We can't use camber plates (double wishbones, not bad macpherson struts), so we have to wait until one of the tripoint teams releases a new upper wishbone for us.

Hows camber work? Here's an excellent example. Look at my rear tire, notice how its straight with the ground even though my car is maximizing its body roll with the D2's. Now look at the front wheels, notice how they're tilted out, and not having 100% contact with the road. If you find this hard to see, look at the rear wheels, then quickly look at the fronts, you'll see them tilting out.

vir9.jpg


We need front negative camber soooo badly. And an LSD, and stiffer shocks, and stiffer springs.

The car can pretty much outhandle every "current" (destroyed by older models of course) sedan on the road, and its been proven it can in the race series. But it sure as hell doesn't stock.
 
Hey crossbow, do you have any other pictures of you racing your car? If you do, would you post them for me please?
 
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