Having a bit of trouble - wonder if anyone can help...
I have a Mazda 323F, very similar to some of the Protege models in terms of rear suspension mechanisms. 2003 year. Replacing all 4 lateral links as the bushings are gone.
Trying to remove a 240mm long bolt that goes goes through both rear lateral links (at the outer ends) and the spindle. The nut comes off easily, but the bolt is absolutely ceased.
Tried PlusGas penetrating oil so far with a 750mm breaker bar, wiggling it back and forth for ages whilst having someone simultaneously hitting the free end of the bolt with a lump hammer. Worried about putting too much torque onto the 21mm bolt head as it might snap the bolt head (if not the breaker bar itself which is really bending).
So - before I use a grinder and then drill the bolt out of the spindle, can anyone offer suggestions? Mazda charge 20 for each of the bolts (I need 2 - 1 for both sides). They are 14mm part-threaded which are rare size and I can't source elsewhere. So I'd prefer to remove the bolt in-tact and avoid the grinder/drill option.
I don't have facilities for applying much heat to it, butane gas blow torch on a windy day doesn't do much (no access to closed garage unfortunately).
How can it get so ceased with only a couple of cm's length contact with the spindle? I think the bolt is ceased in the bushing too but that can't be what is stopping it from turning as the bushing metal inner is only attached to degraded rubber.
If anyone can solve or offer some experience it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
I have a Mazda 323F, very similar to some of the Protege models in terms of rear suspension mechanisms. 2003 year. Replacing all 4 lateral links as the bushings are gone.
Trying to remove a 240mm long bolt that goes goes through both rear lateral links (at the outer ends) and the spindle. The nut comes off easily, but the bolt is absolutely ceased.
Tried PlusGas penetrating oil so far with a 750mm breaker bar, wiggling it back and forth for ages whilst having someone simultaneously hitting the free end of the bolt with a lump hammer. Worried about putting too much torque onto the 21mm bolt head as it might snap the bolt head (if not the breaker bar itself which is really bending).
So - before I use a grinder and then drill the bolt out of the spindle, can anyone offer suggestions? Mazda charge 20 for each of the bolts (I need 2 - 1 for both sides). They are 14mm part-threaded which are rare size and I can't source elsewhere. So I'd prefer to remove the bolt in-tact and avoid the grinder/drill option.
I don't have facilities for applying much heat to it, butane gas blow torch on a windy day doesn't do much (no access to closed garage unfortunately).
How can it get so ceased with only a couple of cm's length contact with the spindle? I think the bolt is ceased in the bushing too but that can't be what is stopping it from turning as the bushing metal inner is only attached to degraded rubber.
If anyone can solve or offer some experience it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
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