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R.I.P. Mazda5 Transmission: b. 2010 - d. 2012
- Thread starter jandyp
- Start date
Just wondering, since you have a new transmission can this no start have anything to do with the start in Park switch?
I'll check the fusible link and will ask about the start in park switch at the dealer tomorrow. I will let you all know what they say. I did see the fusible link when I changed the battery. It looked fine to me, but then again I really don't know what I am looking at. Everything appeared to be properly connected and clean in and around the battery.
I'll check the fusible link and will ask about the start in park switch at the dealer tomorrow. I will let you all know what they say. I did see the fusible link when I changed the battery. It looked fine to me, but then again I really don't know what I am looking at. Everything appeared to be properly connected and clean in and around the battery.
The fusible link can fry and blow out of the rubber boot that it's in, or it can appear to be fine. If there's no visible damage you have to use an ohmmeter. Both ends are easy to disconnect, so not a big deal. Don't fidget with it because it's basically a filament that can break if it's old. I have no clue what the resistance is, but that is part of the spec when the manufacturer determines the best "fry point" in terms of excessive current. Honestly, it's hard to imagine the ECU not throwing a code over that. It's really easy to diagnose from the ECU side. I doubt this is an issue for you.
I'm concerned about the lack of fluidity of the tranny when decelerating. During slow deceleraton at slower speeds, the transmission seems to log the engine because of hanging on a higher gear.
For the curious, the service advisor says that the connection to the starter terminal is loose and that they are going to have to replace it. Since Mazda is closed today, I am back with a rental vehicle through Thursday. My Mazda 5 has been out of service since Dec. 18, over two weeks by the time I get it back. I am now eyeing the Ford C-Max and Prius V as potential replacement vehicles if I have too many further problems, as I need a car that is reliable. We will see...
For the curious, the service advisor says that the connection to the starter terminal is loose and that they are going to have to replace it. Since Mazda is closed today, I am back with a rental vehicle through Thursday. My Mazda 5 has been out of service since Dec. 18, over two weeks by the time I get it back. I am now eyeing the Ford C-Max and Prius V as potential replacement vehicles if I have too many further problems, as I need a car that is reliable. We will see...
All cars have problems. I've had it out with Honda and Ford over serious problems that were never resolved. What matters is whether the warranty is worth jack. It sounds like you're doing pretty good, regardless of manufacturer. Keep in mind that this new repair is very simple.
No start due to a loose terminal on the starter = human error. Not really an issue with the quality/reliability of the Mazda.
On the other hand, I can understand your frustration in the entire situation.
So I get a car from the dealer: good news, your car is fixed! The shuttle driver brings out the car (only about 3 miles from the dealer) to fetch back the rental. Shuttle driver gets here and unknowingly parks behind my rental. I get in my car to move it out of the way and...it still doesn't start!
Shuttle driver calls dealer, the tech asks if it starts in neutral...it does start in neutral. Whatever repair was attempted on the loose terminal failed. The 5 goes back to the dealer again, and I still have the rental. The saga continues...
So I get a car from the dealer: good news, your car is fixed! The shuttle driver brings out the car (only about 3 miles from the dealer) to fetch back the rental. Shuttle driver gets here and unknowingly parks behind my rental. I get in my car to move it out of the way and...it still doesn't start!
Shuttle driver calls dealer, the tech asks if it starts in neutral...it does start in neutral. Whatever repair was attempted on the loose terminal failed. The 5 goes back to the dealer again, and I still have the rental. The saga continues...
HOLY CRAP! Find a new dealer!!
HOLY CRAP! Find a new dealer!!
Yup!! It's not Mazda reliability it's dealer lack of competence.
Yup!! It's not Mazda reliability it's dealer lack of competence.
I agree with you. I wish there was another dealer close to me. Next closest dealer is in another state, 75 miles away. I will think twice before taking my vehicle back to these guys. I will say that Mazda has stood behind the warranty completely. I'm only out for $100 for the battery that I changed on my own thus far.
I agree with you. I wish there was another dealer close to me. Next closest dealer is in another state, 75 miles away. I will think twice before taking my vehicle back to these guys. I will say that Mazda has stood behind the warranty completely. I'm only out for $100 for the battery that I changed on my own thus far.
Are you very close to Louisville?
Are you very close to Louisville?
Not really--Fort Wayne is about six hours away from Louisville, I think. The dealer called back to say that they repaired the starter terminal correctly, but that there was some sort of cable that is loose, leading to intermittent starting.
I may not get all of this right, as it is a foreign language to me, but basically they said when the tech shifted the car into Park hard, it will start right up because some sort of cable is making good contact with the starter terminal. If it is shifted into Park gently, there is poor contact and it doesn't start. He mentioned the solenoid in the brake when depressed--again, I didn't absorb all of it on the phone as I have no clue what he is talking about (although I am wondering if my service advisor has much of a clue either--the blind leading the blind). They are supposed to fix it on Wednesday or, if a part is needed, on Thursday.
Regardless, it will be the third time that they will have told me that the car is "fixed"--hopefully, the third time is the charm.
Got it back today--driving it home reminded me of how much I miss the car. I do enjoy driving it. The only unusual thing I noticed was that acceleration and braking were both more sensitive than usual, but part of that could be me, as I've been driving a huge Town & Country van as a rental and need to adjust back to the Mazda. Gear shifting in the new tranny seemed smooth and easy. We will see how it goes. With a new transmission, new battery, and new starter cable, maybe I will be good to go for a while.
I do appreciate the help & suggestions from the board as well as having a place to vent.
I do appreciate the help & suggestions from the board as well as having a place to vent.
I'm own a Mazda Premacy 2.0 2004. My transmission warning light "HOLD" keep blinking when drive it. It seems like the sensor in the transmission is fault. When the light is blinking, the transmission is very rough likes the gear shifting too fast. Any member here have found the same problem like this or anyone can give me any suggestion or solution ? Thanks
This reply is a little late, but my 2006 GT had a similar problem with it not starting. Sometimes when in Park the car would not start, no click, nothing happens when I turn the key, but it will start when I put it in Neutral. The problem turned out to be the Transaxle Range Switch that is connected to the shift selector and located at the bottom of the transmission. There is a calibration and alignment procedure in the service manual (section 05-17-119 to 05-17-122). Perhaps this was not done properly when they installed the new transmission. I found the problem when I noticed that the "P" light would not come on when I put the shifter into park.
I'm own a Mazda Premacy 2.0 2004. My transmission warning light "HOLD" keep blinking when drive it. It seems like the sensor in the transmission is fault. When the light is blinking, the transmission is very rough likes the gear shifting too fast. Any member here have found the same problem like this or anyone can give me any suggestion or solution ? Thanks
That doesn't sound like something outside the realm of expertise of your dealer. I would start there and let them at least try to tell you what it is. I wouldn't plan on letting them keep and fix it unless the cost is very reasonable or you just can't afford to go without it fixed any longer.
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