Ricktalife's EPIC fails and maybe a build thread too

R

Ricktalife

Member
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2012 Subaru WRX
Ricktalife's EPIC build thread

Welcome to the long overdue thread of stupid s*** I should have created in the first place rather than threadjacking others. What can I say, it has been a journey. First and foremost:

*Disclaimer*
The purpose of this thread is for me to jot down all the progress I make with my car, for myself as well as your own enjoyment. Hopefully I will be able to give some of you ideas for your own cars. I also am open to suggestions and friendly criticism as long as you are suggesting an alternative idea to use. Simple negative comments without a better idea will not be allowed. I do not plan on building the motor , simply because the cost is too much, and this is my daily driver which needs to be driveable on a daily basis.
*/Disclaimer*

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Here is the link to my photobucket account with all my pictures.
http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c372/RickTaLife/

To give you a better idea of all that is done to the car as of now, my mod list includes:

Performance
-Prosport electronic boost gauge with peak/warn
-Prosport wideband Air/Fuel gauge
-Injen cold air intake
-Steedspeed turbo manifold
-Corksport S-pipe
-Vibrant exhaust
-Corksport exhaust hangars
-TWM shifter bushings
-AWR front motor mount
-Medieval passenger, trans and rear motor mounts
-Exedy stage 1 clutch
-Fidanza flywheel
-Clunk fix brackets
-ATP WGA
-CX Racing FMIC with jet hot coated piping
-HKS SSQV version 3
-Revised CDM EGR valve
-Millenia PCV valve
-Signature Sound catch can
-Slim fans
-Vibrant vacuum block
-EBC front pads and rotors

Exterior Styling
-35% tint all around
-Yellow fog lights
-MB Weapon 17x7 wheels with Hankook Ventus V12's
-Hasawaga lugs and Bull locks

Engine bay/Interior
-Pioneer P4100DVD touchscreen
-Kicker 6x8's in front doors
-Dual gauge cluster pod
-Wrinkle black powdercoated valve cover
-Vibrant blue silicone vacuum hose
-Vibrant blue silicone couplers
-Prosport hood dampers
-Blox spherical shift knob


In case anybody was curious, here are 2 of my dad's weekend cars. We have slightly different tastes haha.
 

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Alright so to start this off I will just list all the problems I am trying to address at the moment. Anybody may chime in with suggested replacement parts / fixes.

I will have the car looked over for:

1. Broken motor mounts
2. Suspension issues
3. Vacuum leaks
4. Brakes
5. Setting up a basic tune using the Stock Super Map
6. Clean the EGR
7. Inspect spark plugs
8. Inspect IAC (throttle seems to be sticking, but not the actual pedal)
9. Inspect PCV and replace with Millenia or Purolator if necessary

I am looking for suggestions and input on the items mentioned above so I can have the car running in tip top shape before I bother with my FMIC and tune the car thoroughly.
 
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You should look into a Millenia s PCV to replace you stocker... assuming you haven't already. it will get rid of at least some of the oil blow by you have around the oil cap. my $.02
 
Ricktalife said:
Alright so to start this off I will just list all the problems I am trying to address at the moment. Anybody may chime in with suggested replacement parts / fixes.

I will have the car looked over for:

1. Broken motor mounts they will be
2. Suspension issues "the clunk"
3. Vacuum leaks yes please
4. Brakes
5. Setting up a basic tune using the Stock Super Map
6. Clean the EGR you might be ok cleaning but look into CDM
7. Inspect spark plugs
8. Inspect IAC (throttle seems to be sticking, but not the actual pedal)
Click to expand...
good start, id do silicone vac lines and a distributor block to get it done now. im planning to...
in PA your EGR might be ok, but in new england and NY most of them are in rough shape and cant be cleaned effectively. consider a CDM one if yours is seized, or if youre not on a tight budget
my front mount was hanging on by a thread, i knew when it broke. im pretty confident my rear is toast.
you already have the clunk, but aside from that i think the suspensions hold up pretty well.
S/C millenia PCV is a great idea, thats on my list as well.
exhauast hangers might be a good idea as well, thats the only other thing on my list i dont see on yours. (well it was on my list)
 
u812many73 said:
You should look into a Millenia s PCV to replace you stocker... assuming you haven't already. it will get rid of at least some of the oil blow by you have around the oil cap. my $.02
Click to expand...

I have not thought of that but will look into it, thanks.

EDIT: what year Millenia would you suggest?

yudkib said:
good start, id do silicone vac lines and a distributor block to get it done now. im planning to...
in PA your EGR might be ok, but in new england and NY most of them are in rough shape and cant be cleaned effectively. consider a CDM one if yours is seized, or if youre not on a tight budget
my front mount was hanging on by a thread, i knew when it broke. im pretty confident my rear is toast.
you already have the clunk, but aside from that i think the suspensions hold up pretty well.
S/C millenia PCV is a great idea, thats on my list as well.
exhauast hangers might be a good idea as well, thats the only other thing on my list i dont see on yours. (well it was on my list)
Click to expand...

Is a distributor block a different term for vacuum block? Excuse my stupidity. If so I have a Vibrant vacuum block. I bought a Hose Techniques MSP full replacement kit but my friend said we should leave the factory hoses alone if they are not showing signs of wear. So I only replaced some of them so far.

My car came from Jersey so I don't know if that would affect the EGR like it does in NY. I'm fairly confident the motor mounts are toast even though my friend ignores me when I say it. What is the best way to check them? I'm sure there is a better way that hoisting the block up and taking them off lol.

As far as suspension, I do have the clunk, but there is also obnoxious squeaking noises I hear in the winter when I go over bumps. I'm telling you, when the temperatures are low, this s*** is LOUD. I'm praying that something just needs to be greased, but I really don't think it is going to be that simple.

I do have exhaust hangars I forgot about those lol. Updating list now...

These are great ideas keep them coming.
 
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Get a Purolator PV 1047, unless you are some sort of manufacturer parts purist, than pay a whole lot more for a genuine Mazda Millenia S pcv. I know PG sells the Mazdaspeed part. I used countless PV 1047 w/o issue.

In my experience I've found it unnecessary to replace all vaccum hoses as is often suggested by some. I've only had to replace the pressure hose from the turbo due to the poor excuse for a factory one.

You can visually inspect your passenger mount, trans mount and front mount(car in the air) and run your finger around them to feel for cracks, rips and tears. The car will definitely need to be jacked up to inspect the rear with your finger. A wooden block on a floor jack will provide you with enough lift space and secure the engine while changing all mounts if needed.

You'd be surprised how much noise can come from the rear sway bar bushings being dry. I've removed mine and greased them and the noise disappears. Now noise related to the struts, mounts or bearings will not go away until you replace those parts. These type of performance struts are not designed to last forever.

Just change your plugs, don't bother checking the gap. NGK V powers are $1.99 each.

Satisfied Pro Ceramic pads are a great choice. I've been running them for a few years and love the stopping and ZERO dust issues.

Seafoam treatments often using both the pcv hose and in the gas tank will go a long way. I've never cleaned my EGR nor do I intend to and my idle is always smooth and steady. Same goes for the IAC.
 
BOOSTR said:
Get a Purolator PV 1047, unless you are some sort of manufacturer parts purist, than pay a whole lot more for a genuine Mazda Millenia S pcv. I know PG sells the Mazdaspeed part. I used countless PV 1047 w/o issue.

In my experience I've found it unnecessary to replace all vaccum hoses as is often suggested by some. I've only had to replace the pressure hose from the turbo due to the poor excuse for a factory one.

You can visually inspect your passenger mount, trans mount and front mount(car in the air) and run your finger around them to feel for cracks, rips and tears. The car will definitely need to be jacked up to inspect the rear with your finger. A wooden block on a floor jack will provide you with enough lift space and secure the engine while changing all mounts if needed.

You'd be surprised how much noise can come from the rear sway bar bushings being dry. I've removed mine and greased them and the noise disappears. Now noise related to the struts, mounts or bearings will not go away until you replace those parts. These type of performance struts are not designed to last forever.

Just change your plugs, don't bother checking the gap. NGK V powers are $1.99 each.

Satisfied Pro Ceramic pads are a great choice. I've been running them for a few years and love the stopping and ZERO dust issues.

Seafoam treatments often using both the pcv hose and in the gas tank will go a long way. I've never cleaned my EGR nor do I intend to and my idle is always smooth and steady. Same goes for the IAC.
Click to expand...

Usually I buy the OEM parts for oil filters and such just so I can blame them if it fails, but if you think the Purolater works well then I'll take your word for it. Suggestions where to buy?

I'm thinking about replacing any mounts with OEM replacements (hear me out) and meanwhile I am considering some inserts to keep the vibrations minimal but still be safe. That would also put me in the market for a new s-pipe :D.

The suspension is scaring me since I can hear the clunk, as well as major squeaking from both the front and rear when I go over a large bump (they are a plenty in PA). The front also seems to be significantly louder than the rear.

I've been shopping around for plugs (silly I know) because I can't decide if I really need platinums or not. Really doesn't matter to me, I just want to make sure they work well. I will be keeping the boost below 10psi, hopefully around 7-8.

Upgraded brakes have come to mind, but I know I don't need a serious $900 for my basic bolt ons. Though I'm told if I just go with stronger pads they will wear the rotors quicker. I want to have the rotors inspected to see how they are doing.

Seafoam is a good idea, and I will talk to my dad to hear his thoughts before my next oil change (royal purple (thumb))
 
I have the same horrible sqeaking over the slightest bumbs to. Only in the winter tho. then it gos away in the summer. got some new front and rear sway bar bushings that are supposed to fix it.(mine are shreded so dont think just grease will fix) putting on this weekend so ill let you know if it solves it on mine.

Also, off topic...where did you find the proper nipples for your vibrant vac block? Ived had no luck looking around
 
cruton5 said:
I have the same horrible sqeaking over the slightest bumbs to. Only in the winter tho. then it gos away in the summer. got some new front and rear sway bar bushings that are supposed to fix it.(mine are shreded so dont think just grease will fix) putting on this weekend so ill let you know if it solves it on mine.

Also, off topic...where did you find the proper nipples for your vibrant vac block? Ived had no luck looking around
Click to expand...

Try these guys:

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=140&products_id=324
 
well i like where your heading with the project. however royal purple didn't seem worth it to me. i did that on my last oil change and i just didn't think that much of a difference to me. im switching back to mobil one. it just didn't make a huge difference to me. but if it works for you go for it.

oh and i have the squeaks year round
 
cruton5 said:
I have the same horrible sqeaking over the slightest bumbs to. Only in the winter tho. then it gos away in the summer. got some new front and rear sway bar bushings that are supposed to fix it.(mine are shreded so dont think just grease will fix) putting on this weekend so ill let you know if it solves it on mine.

Also, off topic...where did you find the proper nipples for your vibrant vac block? Ived had no luck looking around
Click to expand...

Excellent I look forward to hearing from you. I got mine at a local performance shop. The link Focus posted will show what you need. Just make sure you get the right sizes for each line.

Randy- said:
looking at yout motor ... does your car with that setup for BOV you have?
Click to expand...

I don't understand your question. Did it come factory with a BOV? No, only the BPV.

SCMP3 said:
well i like where your heading with the project. however royal purple didn't seem worth it to me. i did that on my last oil change and i just didn't think that much of a difference to me. im switching back to mobil one. it just didn't make a huge difference to me. but if it works for you go for it.

oh and i have the squeaks year round
Click to expand...

Thanks man. I have heard mixed reviews on the effectiveness of royal purple. I have been using Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic as well but I have paid about $5.50-$6 per quart for that, and with my discount at work I got the royal purple 5w30 for $6.55 per quart. So I figured since I'm already paying crazy amounts for oil, what's another dollar per quart?
 
yudkib said:
walmart has 5 quart jugs of mobil one for like 18 dollars...
Click to expand...

Every single time I go there they are out of stock and I have to buy the singles.

Randy- said:
when you put the HKS BOV on it. have you had any stall issuies with not relocating your MAF
Click to expand...

Nope, as long as you run the dual setup with a BPV and BOV you don't need to relocate the MAF. Some say that relocating makes the car run better, but I haven't had any problems.
 
nice... well see i have the weapon r hard pipes.. you cant weld a flange on their aluminum..
i have to cut the pipe and get a flange. what does it sound like? is the turkey eliminated? and where do you have the vac recirculated too
 
Randy- said:
nice... well see i have the weapon r hard pipes.. you cant weld a flange on their aluminum..
i have to cut the pipe and get a flange. what does it sound like? is the turkey eliminated? and where do you have the vac recirculated too
Click to expand...

Well I'm not sure what you can do with your setup, but on mine the turkey is gone. I'm not sure what you mean about where it's recirculated. The air is recirculated back to the charge pipe if that's what you're asking. I have some more pics of my setup on my photobucket account which is linked in the first post. You should be able to see where all my vac lines are. Though I believe the pic I posted on this thread is the only one showing my vacuum block.
 
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