CulRidr's MP3 N/A build (~150whp goal)

CulRidr · 03-10-2009, 01:17 PM

Alright so it's my turn to start my build thread, so here it is.

My piston rings are shot, and so are my valve seals, and decided that I didn't want to have any uncertainty in terms of dropping in a junkyard engine, so I'm going with the expensive route of having mine entirely rebuilt. It has close to 120,000miles on it, and although it was running like butter last year, it went downhill in the fall after the timing belt service was done to it and a new cam (FS-H9) was dropped in. Not sure if it was coincidence or not, especially with how hard I pushed the car this past summer through autoX (including one event about 2 weeks after the service was done), but I digress.

So considering the engine will be entirely apart, I figured I would play around with it and do the "standard mods"...this is what I have planned:

Small updates to 1st post. And I'm starting to get some things together, and this is what engine work I foresee will happen:

Engine overbore by 0.5mm
Full block cleaning/painting (to finally get rid of all that surface rust)
Crankshaft cleaning/polishing
Speedcircuit stage 2 head
Head milled
Custom machining job to fit Twiggys with proper valve lash, valve sniping, etc.
Full rotating assembly balancing

With that, I'll be going with:
10.4:1 compression pistons
new (stock) rods
a full rebuild kit
Twiggys
cam gears from Focus' GB
custom 4-2-1 looong-tube header
the full Medieval pulley set I already have
full Medieval motor mount set
Fidanza flywheel
Exedy stock clutch
welded MSP LSD
AWR oil pan
new oil pump
Flex-a-lite oil cooler
NSN spacers

My suspension is essentially complete, and the brakes have been slightly upgraded with better pads, SS lines and and MSP front setup. In terms of tuning, I have the MP3 ECU and an N/A MPI, but will sell those and install a custom reflashed ECU. Most of the info you want to know in terms of my mods are in my sig, but feel free to ask if you have more questions.

Parts are being sourced right now, with everything coming together around mid-April, with the rebuild occurring in late April or early May.

Feel free to post any comments, criticism, suggestions and/or questions

Tom03es · 03-10-2009, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CulRidr

Feel free to post any comments, criticism, suggestions and/or questions

or subscriptions!

MakeMeGoFast · 03-10-2009, 01:31 PM

I would hurry up on the getting funds for MicroTech.....and get it off
the manufacturer site in Austrailia. Exchange rates are really good for us right now.

$1195 Australian (LT10s) = $768 US

Your not gonna get a better deal unless the Australian dollor loses more ground on the US dollar

CulRidr · 03-10-2009, 01:32 PM

Ya, except the exchange rate to CAD brings it back up to nearly a grand. And between this and other projects for the car, I'm dropping 6 grand in the car in the next couple of months...

sandspeed · 03-10-2009, 01:33 PM

Sounds like a fun build man, I wouldn't mess with the MPI and go straight to microtech or haltech. Are you going to upgrade the rods?

MakeMeGoFast · 03-10-2009, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CulRidr

Ya, except the exchange rate to CAD brings it back up to nearly a grand. And between this and other projects for the car, I'm dropping 6 grand in the car in the next couple of months...

DOH.......forgot you were in CA.....sorry

CulRidr · 03-10-2009, 01:38 PM

Unless someone can actually show that I NEED them, I won't. I just won't be pushing enough horsepower to warrant it, and am not planning on going "nuts" with the RPM band...7k at the most. And I don't have unlimited funds either...

shane02pro5 · 03-10-2009, 01:41 PM

$6k for 150whp...I thought $20k was bad for 350-400whp but I think that's worse!?

Good Luck with the build man!!

CulRidr · 03-10-2009, 01:47 PM

^actually it's 5 grand...the other grand is for other goodies such as autoX wheels, brake upgrade and a secret project (and remember, that's in Canadian money...which with the parts I'm buying would mean about 4 grand or so in USD). And don't forget, the engine will essentially be brand new with few parts being reused...
Here's the breakdown as I see it now:

Parts
Rebuild kit 802
Piston setup 481
Valve Springs 0?
Clutch 180
Flywheel 251
Motor Mounts 300
Exhaust Camshaft 262
Sub-total 2276

Labour
Engine boring 140
Camshaft polishing 75
Engine cleaning 100
3angle valve job 500
In/Out Labour 1600
Sub-total 2729
TOTAL 5005 (plus about 100$ of shipping charges)

nullbyte · 03-10-2009, 07:39 PM

if you need a hand with anything let me know!

subbn!

**LordWorm** · 03-11-2009, 05:07 AM

I'll push this point again (push it everytime I see an NA engine build) - spend the extra cash and go for longer rods, with custom pistons with a raised wrist pin. This will reduce piston acceleration which tears motors apart at high RPM. Also if you plan on spinning the motor hard, get it balanced/blue printed to tighter tolerances. Balancing is usually paid for by the hour (at least it is here) - the more time, the better the balance, with obvious diminishing returns. Vibration, and piston acceleration will be the enemy of a high revving build.

with anything NA, you've really only got a small handful of places to increase power. You cannot appreciably increase displacement, so you generally chase higher compression and more revs. 7500rpm would be achievable without going to extreme on connecting rods. something like an sr20 conrod modified to fit would be fine. You also get an oversized wrist pin with this kind of combination, and since you'll need custom pistons, you can decide the compression ratio which best suites your build.

Bare in mind also, the jspec intake cam is fairly lame. They are to stock cams in the motors as delivered here in australia, and they run out of puff on an NA build very quickly (about 5800 to 6200rpm) - if you plan on spinning the engine harder than stock redline (and with a built motor, you would be somewhat foolish not to take it to at least 7k) you're going to want something bigger. High compression will help with the nasty side of big cams because the higher static compression will trade off against the loss in dynamic compression.

you must, you must, you must sort out management for the engine. There are huge amounts of power to be unlocked on the timing side alone, and it is unlikely the stock computer is going to put up with any sort of "extreme" alterations - if it does put up with them, it is equally unlikely that the poor tune will negate many of the gains you'll get from the work done.

Any computer that will control fuel + timing will do, but the microtech is recommended purely because of the amount of people who have already done it - its a proven solution and very easy to use/tune yourself.

header: the only "really good one" is the one you get made for your build. The AWR is ok. The autoexe is even better - but at the end of the day, dropping a large lump of change on a custom piece is the only way to go if you want the most out of it. But if that is too rich for your blood, trawl auction sites and look for the autoexes....get one that looks dirty and shit for cheap, sand it back and polish, and it'll look sensational. You can then improve the merge by adding a megaphone/expansion pipe to hook it up to a full 2.5in exhaust system. Another option is an australian made header called a "pacemaker", which is 4 into 1, but not quit equal length runners. I've only seen pics and they could do with a couple of hundred bucks worth of modifications to make better, but they do look like a good alternative, and they are not that pricey! (shipping will be the killer though).

you haven't given us a power goal, and I know it sounds like i'm adding to your shopping list but consider this: (1) you don't want to open the engine up again any time soon, so get as much done while its apart. sell a kidney, or live off noodles for a few months, but get it done right first time. (2) jimmysuite went pretty much the same way you're going, only with microtech, a more agressive set of cams, and more head work - but still stock rods, and jdm pistons, and he's topping out somewhere in the high 150hp range at the hoops - not saying his build is bad, quite the contrary, its pretty much exactly what he wants (well, short 25hp of his goal) but with a few simple additions you could make 175 comfortably (long rods, slightly higher compression, decent header), with daily driven reliability.

keep us posted, and let us know which way you plan to go!

CulRidr · 03-11-2009, 12:26 PM

Well, I'll start off by saying that my goal is in my thread title

As for the rest, I've read every big thread of the 100whp/L contest and have read everything you just wrote time and again.

I've just inquired about getting the engine balanced (crank pulley, flywheel, crank, rods and pistons, and I'm looking at 3-400CAD, which in my opinion will be completely worth it).

The MPI can do both timing and fuel management, so I'll start with that for now, and if I ever see a really good deal on a Microtech down the line (maybe when the dollar props back up again), I'll jump on board, but can't go nuts ALL at once...
For the header, not sure where I'm going with that yet, but that will again be something I wait for the "right item". I've only ever seen an Autoexe for sale ONCE in the last 6 years, so I'm not exactly banking on it, and paying 1500$ for a new one is out of the question. If you could give me an idea on the price for a pacesetter, maybe we can talk. Would like to hear some more info about them. Looked them up, and they unfortunately don't have anything for the 2.0L probe...
For the cams, it really does come down to cost honestly. I'm going with the "JDM" cams for now as I have found them to flow decently, and 180USD VS over 700USD is a BIG deal right now, and changing cams is a LOT easier then changing the bottom end, so if I were to do spend BIG bucks on anything, it would be the bottom end. For now, I'll keep the valvetrain intact and save some money there. I'm sure the cams will still flow over 7000, just not as well as more aggressive cams. 150whp with my setup is achievable as a local guy did it with a tune, a cheap header/exhaust, intake, AEM FIC, HC pistons, FSH9, and a fully balanced engine. I'll have more then that.

Right now the biggest question I want info on is these SR20 rods with custom pistons. I can't seem to find anything in terms of info on these on the boards beyond the small amount you wrote in the original contest thread.
I've seen a lot of eagle rods for ~320USD, and I'm assuming I'd spend about half of that on making them fit to the FSDE (the custom pistons would use the stock wrist-pin size of the rods?). And what would I be looking at in ballpark price for the custom pistons? This would give me an idea of feasibility. I'm looking at a redline of 7000-7200rpm at most, so not even sure it's really worth it VS stock rods & 10.4:1 pistons.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nullbyte

if you need a hand with anything let me know!
subbn!

If you have some sort of garage, I may ask for your help with some brake work

And I'd love to see your car (and all those goodies you have waiting)!

Maxx Mazda · 03-11-2009, 01:52 PM

Good luck man! LMK if you have any questions on the build!

**LordWorm** · 03-11-2009, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CulRidr

Well, I'll start off by saying that my goal is in my thread title

so it is

in all honesty, 150hp is doable with bolt ons....and it may be cheaper to get an engine from a junk yard and drop all the coin on management, cams, manifolds, and a little head work...but you've said you don't want to do that because of reliability thing so we'll assume you are building for safety..

As for the rest, I've read every big thread of the 100whp/L contest and have read everything you just wrote time and again.

Quote:

[*]For the header, not sure where I'm going with that yet, but that will again be something I wait for the "right item". I've only ever seen an Autoexe for sale ONCE in the last 6 years, so I'm not exactly banking on it, and paying 1500$ for a new one is out of the question. If you could give me an idea on the price for a pacesetter, maybe we can talk. Would like to hear some more info about them. Looked them up, and they unfortunately don't have anything for the 2.0L probe...

the pacemaker is for the "astina" or something I think... 2L fsde - it should work. as for cost I believe from memory you get change out of $400 australian for it...plus shipping. They wont deal directly though so you'll need to go through an australian exhaust shop - i'm happy to liase with some shops for if you chose to go this way.

Quote:

[*]For the cams, it really does come down to cost honestly. I'm going with the "JDM" cams for now as I have found them to flow decently, and 180USD VS over 700USD is a BIG deal right now, and changing cams is a LOT easier then changing the bottom end, so if I were to do spend BIG bucks on anything, it would be the bottom end. For now, I'll keep the valvetrain intact and save some money there. I'm sure the cams will still flow over 7000, just not as well as more aggressive cams. 150whp with my setup is achievable as a local guy did it with a tune, a cheap header/exhaust, intake, AEM FIC, HC pistons, FSH9, and a fully balanced engine. I'll have more then that.

true you can change cams easilly - it will cost you a retune though ...

Quote:

Right now the biggest question I want info on is these SR20 rods with custom pistons. I can't seem to find anything in terms of info on these on the boards beyond the small amount you wrote in the original contest thread.
I've seen a lot of eagle rods for ~320USD, and I'm assuming I'd spend about half of that on making them fit to the FSDE (the custom pistons would use the stock wrist-pin size of the rods?). And what would I be looking at in ballpark price for the custom pistons? This would give me an idea of feasibility. I'm looking at a redline of 7000-7200rpm at most, so not even sure it's really worth it VS stock rods & 10.4:1 pistons.

the required machining is to get the big end width in spec to fit the fsde crank... they just need to take a bit of width off it - i had it done for a guy here a while back and it was fairly cheap. Wrist pin size needs to macth the sr20 rod - which is quite a bit larger than the fsde rod (can't remember exatly though) - custom pistons are going to be a fair bit more pricey but worth it imho.

CulRidr · 03-11-2009, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LordWorm

so it is

in all honesty, 150hp is doable with bolt ons....and it may be cheaper to get an engine from a junk yard and drop all the coin on management, cams, manifolds, and a little head work...but you've said you don't want to do that because of reliability thing so we'll assume you are building for safety..

Building for safety, reliability, and a bit more fun

Quote:

the pacemaker is for the "astina" or something I think... 2L fsde - it should work. as for cost I believe from memory you get change out of $400 australian for it...plus shipping. They wont deal directly though so you'll need to go through an australian exhaust shop - i'm happy to liase with some shops for if you chose to go this way.

Can you show me pix of this header? Been trying to find some online but am not succeeding. That would be a decent price, especially since I'd make some money from selling my gear, but I'd get them ceramic coated first...

Quote:

true you can change cams easilly - it will cost you a retune though ...

I'm aware

Quote:

the required machining is to get the big end width in spec to fit the fsde crank... they just need to take a bit of width off it - i had it done for a guy here a while back and it was fairly cheap. Wrist pin size needs to macth the sr20 rod - which is quite a bit larger than the fsde rod (can't remember exatly though) - custom pistons are going to be a fair bit more pricey but worth it imho.

How much are we talking for the pistons? I'm already looking at spending ~400-450AUD for the JDMs with piston rings...

03-10-2009, 01:17 PM	#1
CulRidr Canadian eh? Donated: $10 Laser Blue MP3 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Ottawa (ON), Canada Posts: 2,196	CulRidr's MP3 N/A build (~150whp goal) Alright so it's my turn to start my build thread, so here it is. My piston rings are shot, and so are my valve seals, and decided that I didn't want to have any uncertainty in terms of dropping in a junkyard engine, so I'm going with the expensive route of having mine entirely rebuilt. It has close to 120,000miles on it, and although it was running like butter last year, it went downhill in the fall after the timing belt service was done to it and a new cam (FS-H9) was dropped in. Not sure if it was coincidence or not, especially with how hard I pushed the car this past summer through autoX (including one event about 2 weeks after the service was done), but I digress. So considering the engine will be entirely apart, I figured I would play around with it and do the "standard mods"...this is what I have planned: Small updates to 1st post. And I'm starting to get some things together, and this is what engine work I foresee will happen: Engine overbore by 0.5mm Full block cleaning/painting (to finally get rid of all that surface rust) Crankshaft cleaning/polishing Speedcircuit stage 2 head Head milled Custom machining job to fit Twiggys with proper valve lash, valve sniping, etc. Full rotating assembly balancing With that, I'll be going with: 10.4:1 compression pistons new (stock) rods a full rebuild kit Twiggys cam gears from Focus' GB custom 4-2-1 looong-tube header the full Medieval pulley set I already have full Medieval motor mount set Fidanza flywheel Exedy stock clutch welded MSP LSD AWR oil pan new oil pump Flex-a-lite oil cooler NSN spacers My suspension is essentially complete, and the brakes have been slightly upgraded with better pads, SS lines and and MSP front setup. In terms of tuning, I have the MP3 ECU and an N/A MPI, but will sell those and install a custom reflashed ECU. Most of the info you want to know in terms of my mods are in my sig, but feel free to ask if you have more questions. Parts are being sourced right now, with everything coming together around mid-April, with the rebuild occurring in late April or early May. Feel free to post any comments, criticism, suggestions and/or questions __________________ MY BUILD! Go *Engine:Custom 421 header&Magnaflow midpipe,RB catback w/CS&Kartboy hangers,K&N CCAI,Medieval pulleys&MMs,NSN spacers,Twiggys,SpeedCircuit stage2,FSZE pistons,Fidanza flywheel,adj.cam gears,AWR pan Suspension:Bspec&Aspec,AXR,GTspec links/cage, Autoexe tie bar,RacingLine endlinks Wheels & Brakes:Yoko AD07,MSP front brakes,KVR lines,HPS pads,Kosei K1s w/RE01R(autox) Transmission:welded MSP LSD,TWM SS w/bushings,CS clutch line,626 5th gear Show Exteriorainted rims & emblems,Mintblue grill,smoked clear sidemarkers,foglight deletes,LED&chrome bulbs, painted calipers,Tribute nozzles Interior:NGK AFX,Prosport gauges,daveBs,MS sidesills/mats/centre console,SD Boots,LED lighting Engine:Optima,painted/cut valve cover,hood props,ADP,grounding kit,Gujustud Audio:Sirius Not yet on the car Xpel headlight covers,XC eyelids,MZ3 mirror,secret project,Kenwood upgrade OttawaMazda Last edited by CulRidr; 07-30-2010 at 12:40 PM.*

03-10-2009, 01:31 PM	#3
MakeMeGoFast Pursuit of HP happiness Donated: $20 02' Protege ES Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: South East PA Posts: 2,392	I would hurry up on the getting funds for MicroTech.....and get it off the manufacturer site in Austrailia. Exchange rates are really good for us right now. $1195 Australian (LT10s) = $768 US Your not gonna get a better deal unless the Australian dollor loses more ground on the US dollar __________________ God willing there will be a KL in my future.

03-10-2009, 01:32 PM	#4
CulRidr Canadian eh? Donated: $10 Laser Blue MP3 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Ottawa (ON), Canada Posts: 2,196	Ya, except the exchange rate to CAD brings it back up to nearly a grand. And between this and other projects for the car, I'm dropping 6 grand in the car in the next couple of months... __________________ Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

03-10-2009, 01:33 PM	#5
sandspeed mazdas 2003 black mica msp Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: orlando Posts: 2,607	Sounds like a fun build man, I wouldn't mess with the MPI and go straight to microtech or haltech. Are you going to upgrade the rods? __________________ #322 Performace Race Solutions _sander

03-10-2009, 01:38 PM	#7
CulRidr Canadian eh? Donated: $10 Laser Blue MP3 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Ottawa (ON), Canada Posts: 2,196	Unless someone can actually show that I NEED them, I won't. I just won't be pushing enough horsepower to warrant it, and am not planning on going "nuts" with the RPM band...7k at the most. And I don't have unlimited funds either... __________________ Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

03-10-2009, 01:41 PM	#8
shane02pro5 19ish_psi :) Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,184	$6k for 150whp...I thought $20k was bad for 350-400whp but I think that's worse!? Good Luck with the build man!! __________________ GT3071R Dual BB 64a/r Steedspeed Mani SpeedCircuit block Arias 8.5:1 Pauter Rods Stage 1 Head AWR oil pan PAR 1-4 Straightcut gearset Haltech F10A J&S Safeguard CS Radiator Walbro GSS342 Fuel Pump Perrin Fuel Rail JoeP FCD 565cc WRX Injectors PLX wideband Autometer Boost Gauge Polished Gauge rings Polished Door Sills MSP LSD welded Exedy Stage 2 SS clutchline B&M SS Redline shiftboot e-brake boot 16oz. SS shiftknob Magnacore wires 4awg ground kit Nex Full Coilovers Racing Beat rear sway AWR endlinks Motor Mounts Bronzoil Bushings Rota Hyperblack P1 18x8 Nitto NT555 225/35/18 2.5 Exhaust no cats DMH Electric Cutout Sony headunit Sony 1000w 2ch Kenwood 550w 4ch Sony 12" Infinity Reference doors Power Acoustic 2 farad cap FOR SALE THREAD FS LONGBLOCK & MORE http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123768336

03-10-2009, 01:47 PM	#9
CulRidr Canadian eh? Donated: $10 Laser Blue MP3 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Ottawa (ON), Canada Posts: 2,196	^actually it's 5 grand...the other grand is for other goodies such as autoX wheels, brake upgrade and a secret project (and remember, that's in Canadian money...which with the parts I'm buying would mean about 4 grand or so in USD). And don't forget, the engine will essentially be brand new with few parts being reused... Here's the breakdown as I see it now: Parts Rebuild kit 802 Piston setup 481 Valve Springs 0? Clutch 180 Flywheel 251 Motor Mounts 300 Exhaust Camshaft 262 Sub-total 2276 Labour Engine boring 140 Camshaft polishing 75 Engine cleaning 100 3angle valve job 500 In/Out Labour 1600 Sub-total 2729 TOTAL 5005 (plus about 100$ of shipping charges) __________________ Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

03-10-2009, 07:39 PM	#10
nullbyte Registered User Mazda Protege 5 Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Ottawa, ON, CA Posts: 150	if you need a hand with anything let me know! subbn!

03-11-2009, 05:07 AM	#11
LordWorm 15.581 NA Tech, Motorsports & Aussie Moderator Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Brisbane, Australia Posts: 2,011	I'll push this point again (push it everytime I see an NA engine build) - spend the extra cash and go for longer rods, with custom pistons with a raised wrist pin. This will reduce piston acceleration which tears motors apart at high RPM. Also if you plan on spinning the motor hard, get it balanced/blue printed to tighter tolerances. Balancing is usually paid for by the hour (at least it is here) - the more time, the better the balance, with obvious diminishing returns. Vibration, and piston acceleration will be the enemy of a high revving build. with anything NA, you've really only got a small handful of places to increase power. You cannot appreciably increase displacement, so you generally chase higher compression and more revs. 7500rpm would be achievable without going to extreme on connecting rods. something like an sr20 conrod modified to fit would be fine. You also get an oversized wrist pin with this kind of combination, and since you'll need custom pistons, you can decide the compression ratio which best suites your build. Bare in mind also, the jspec intake cam is fairly lame. They are to stock cams in the motors as delivered here in australia, and they run out of puff on an NA build very quickly (about 5800 to 6200rpm) - if you plan on spinning the engine harder than stock redline (and with a built motor, you would be somewhat foolish not to take it to at least 7k) you're going to want something bigger. High compression will help with the nasty side of big cams because the higher static compression will trade off against the loss in dynamic compression. you must, you must, you must sort out management for the engine. There are huge amounts of power to be unlocked on the timing side alone, and it is unlikely the stock computer is going to put up with any sort of "extreme" alterations - if it does put up with them, it is equally unlikely that the poor tune will negate many of the gains you'll get from the work done. Any computer that will control fuel + timing will do, but the microtech is recommended purely because of the amount of people who have already done it - its a proven solution and very easy to use/tune yourself. header: the only "really good one" is the one you get made for your build. The AWR is ok. The autoexe is even better - but at the end of the day, dropping a large lump of change on a custom piece is the only way to go if you want the most out of it. But if that is too rich for your blood, trawl auction sites and look for the autoexes....get one that looks dirty and shit for cheap, sand it back and polish, and it'll look sensational. You can then improve the merge by adding a megaphone/expansion pipe to hook it up to a full 2.5in exhaust system. Another option is an australian made header called a "pacemaker", which is 4 into 1, but not quit equal length runners. I've only seen pics and they could do with a couple of hundred bucks worth of modifications to make better, but they do look like a good alternative, and they are not that pricey! (shipping will be the killer though). you haven't given us a power goal, and I know it sounds like i'm adding to your shopping list but consider this: (1) you don't want to open the engine up again any time soon, so get as much done while its apart. sell a kidney, or live off noodles for a few months, but get it done right first time. (2) jimmysuite went pretty much the same way you're going, only with microtech, a more agressive set of cams, and more head work - but still stock rods, and jdm pistons, and he's topping out somewhere in the high 150hp range at the hoops - not saying his build is bad, quite the contrary, its pretty much exactly what he wants (well, short 25hp of his goal) but with a few simple additions you could make 175 comfortably (long rods, slightly higher compression, decent header), with daily driven reliability. keep us posted, and let us know which way you plan to go! __________________ 100whp per 1000cc? Join the All Motor Mazda Power Race!

03-11-2009, 01:52 PM	#13
Maxx Mazda Need more boost! Donated: $10 2002 P5 Turbo Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 6,443	Good luck man! LMK if you have any questions on the build! __________________ Completely stock...

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