HOW TO: Tranny fluid change on MS3

killerMS3

Member
Hello: i've done a couple tranny fluid changes now, and after doing it by myself, i devised a good method for this one man job to get it done quickly. Obviously there are variations of this method that accomplish the same goal, but i have found this method works for me. there is not a definite HOW TO for the noobs on here, so i scratched this up to help ya'll out. make sure you read all of this and understand before you proceed.

lets begin!

Tools and materials needed:

floor jack
socket wrench
21mm socket
torque wrench
modified 24mm socket
tranny fill tube from pepboys, $4.99
empty quart of oil
drain pan
3 quarts of tranny oil of your choice

STEP 1. first things first. i grabbed the tranny fill tube from pepboys because it was cheap. it has threads on one end, so you can screw your bottle of tranny juice directly to it. it also has a twist valve to cut the flow when you are full. problem is, the threads did not fit my bottle of tranny fluid (Redline MT90). they did, however, fit an empty quart of pennzoil platinum i had laying around.
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what i did was cut the bottom off the empty quart, and screwed it onto the fill tube. then i poked a hole in the thing towards the top, so i can use a cable tie (or string or whatever) to hold it to hood prop rod while filling. this makes it easy and a one man job.

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next, i bought a cheapie 24mm socket from autozone, $4.99. it is a tight fit to get to the drain plug, so i used a grinder and shortened the socket so i can very easily get it in there. it still fit without the grinding, but there was not enough room between the lower control arm mount and the plug to get a good rotation with the wrench. so if you dont have grinding equipment, don't fret. caution tho, when you grind the socket, you lift up some of that cheap plating on the socket. this can give you a nasty sliver. use common sense.

STEP 2: alright, your ready to get to work. use 21mm socket, loosen left front wheel lug nuts. use floor jack, and jack up car. remove the wheel. at this point, you will be able to see the drain plug.
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there it is, right on the tranny, below that CV joint. using modified 24mm socket and wrench, LOOSEN but do not remove drain plug. after it's loose, put drain pan under plug. now remove the plug. i start the draining process first, because without opening the fill hole to let air in, the fluid drains out slowly and does not shoot out all over your LCA and make a mess.

STEP 3: this is where things are different. you need to remove your airbox to gain access to the fill hole. if you have a CAI, you might need to remove the CAI. this is not hard, just do it. after you get that off, you will be able to see the fill hole down there.
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grab your 24mm socket and wrench, and remove this fill plug. at this point, i go back to my floor jack, and lower the left side of the car all the way until the brake rotor is almost touching the ground. this way i am sure all the oil is getting drained out, because the car is leaning towards the drain hole.

STEP 4. smoke a cig, drink a beer. wait a minute for the crap to drain out.

STEP 5. after it is all done draining, jack the car back up, use a rag to clean the drips off the drain hole. grab your drain plug, clean that off, and screw it back on. Torque to 20.2-37.5 ft\lbs. do not strip these threads. after you got the drain plug in, put the wheel back on, and torque the lug nuts down in the normal sequence (star pattern), to about 70-80 ft\lbs. drop the car down, and bounce the front left corner a couple times to get the suspension to even out.

STEP 6. grab your rigged filling apparatus. cable tie the makeshift funnel to the hood prop rod, and route the tube to the fill hole. for the first 2 quarts, i took the black thing off the fill tube and pushed it in the hole. i did this so i dont have to hold it in there. dump the first 2 quarts in. then take the 3rd quart, and dump about half the jug in. when its all in there, take the tube out and put the black nipple back on the tube. you need this on there, because if you dont, the oil will not drip out of the hole. now hold the black nipple in the hole, and SLOWLY pour oil in funnel, a little bit at a time. stop when oil starts dripping out of the hole. this means its full.

STEP 7. all full? clean off your fill plug, and screw in hand tight. take out makeshift funnel and tube. grab 24mm socket and torque down plug (to 20.2-37.5 ft\lbs), just like you did the drain plug. do not strip those threads!! next clean up the oil that you just dripped all over the black plastic under tray. you don't want your new car to be an oily mess, do ya? god have some respect. also clean your funnel so its good the next time you go to use it.

STEP 8. put your airbox\CAI crap back on. this is self explainitory, and is different depending on the setup your running.

STEP 9. take that baby out for a drive! in the first few seconds of driving, don't hammer on the gears. give it a little bit of driving to get the lube all over the inside of the tranny. after that, let it rip! bask in the glory of silky smooth shifts, and be proud, because you did it all by yourself!



This is a real easy thing to do. It's as easy as changing your own motor oil. As far as what fluid to use, don't ask in this topic, because there are big discussions about it elsewhere. personally, i use Redline MT90, bought from a local speed shop for $9.95 a quart.
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Bam! your done! this concludes this HOW TO.
 
I made this on the other forum. some people wanted it here, so here it is. All torque specs were taken from the factory repair manual, so i assure this is all correct info. one little tip not mentioned: before you open up the drain plug all the way, you should make sure you can get the fill plug loose. personally, i know i wouldn't have a problem with this, but lets say you can't figure out how to get your CAI out of the way, and you go and drain your s***, then you just f***ed yourself. use common sense.
 
so you don't need to remove the gravel protector or whatever its called from under the car? What about the fender lining, does that stay on? Thanks for the writeup. Just what I was looking for.
 
so you don't need to remove the gravel protector or whatever its called from under the car? What about the fender lining, does that stay on? Thanks for the writeup. Just what I was looking for.
if you had to take that s*** off, i would have said so in the how to. you don't have to take any of that off. just do exactly what i said and you'll be fine.
 
just making sure, I am having trouble visualizing it. Thanks for the writeup, this seems like the easist way to do it.
 
I did mine today using this as a guideline. This is what I would add....

I found it much easier to access BOTH bolts from underneath the car. Take off the plastic cover from the bottom, then you can easily access both bolds. The poster is absolutely right about the tight squeeze by the boot. But all you need to do is crack open that initial pressure and hand screw it off.

But from underneath, REALLY easy to get to the fill plug. I have a Mazdaspeed CAI, and I was able to manuever the fill tube off the funnel to the fill hole without moving the CAI.

Also, one way I used to make sure that as much of the oil was out as possible, was use an air compessor and just blew air into the fill hole after it was slowly dripping. The high pressure forced more of the oil out. I used all three quarts and a little more spilled out than I would have liked before I managed to get the fill plug back in, but it shouldn't be that big of a deal.

Alexi
 
Mazda manual says to change the tranny fluid every 30,000 miles on my MS3. I did notice a difference. It didn't make the movement of the shifter any different (I still feel that squishiness of the rubber bushings which I need to change), but when pushing the shifter into gears, it locks it in much faster and smoother than before. Before, ESPECIALLY when cold, I could really feel it locking into gear. And sometimes it'd be jerky and I felt like I almost needed to "force" it into gear with extra pressure. Now, cold or hot, it just goes right in. No real force needed.

Alexi
 
Do you have to remove the wheel? I'm up at college and at my apartment I have ramps, but no floor jack.

Thanks
 
Don't have to remove the wheel. The original poster did and it's a good idea as you could lean the car down to get the maximum amount of fluid out. I didn't take my wheel out and it worked fine. I left the fill plug in and the fluid draining out was VERY close to hitting some part of the underbody, but it didn't. I did mine on a lift and used an air hose to blow into the fill hole to force more fluid out the drain plug.
 
I did mine on a lift and used an air hose to blow into the fill hole to force more fluid out the drain plug.

WOW! i hope you had a dryer on that air line! i wouldn't even think of using my air hose to do this, because i don't have one! no matter what, there is always a little bit of condensation in the lines! unless you have a good dryer, that is...

and as far as removing the wheel, i suggest you do. and don't bulls*** me and tell me you don't have a jack, you have one in this little compartment in the trunk. its a good thing to do, because you can tilt the car and get more fluid out. if you took your jack out, use someone elses jack.
 
and as far as removing the wheel, i suggest you do. and don't bulls*** me and tell me you don't have a jack, you have one in this little compartment in the trunk. its a good thing to do, because you can tilt the car and get more fluid out. if you took your jack out, use someone elses jack.

It's worth mentioning: do not get under the car while it's held up by only the scissor jack. The car can slip off the scissor jack and crush you. If you really want to get underneath, make sure to use jack stands and a floor jack.
 
It's worth mentioning: do not get under the car while it's held up by only the scissor jack. The car can slip off the scissor jack and crush you.

That happened to my cousin when we were lowering our cars one day (my Subaru, not MS3, and his 2007 Mustang GT). That was an aweful frightening experience.
 
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