SS AFC Install How-To

AFC Install How-To

Today i had time to actually install the SS AFC. Mines version 2 which has the extra datalogging for WB's but those are NOT HOOKED UP. Anyhow here we go...

Materials:
You might not need all these, but I did

SS AFC
Bullet Connectors
Wire Taps
Electrical Tape
Vaccum Tubing
Vaccum T
Zip Ties
Wire Loom
SS AFC Wire Instructions (i didnt make these, another forum member did)
SS AFC Installation Insructions (comes with the AFC)

Tools:
Again you might not need all these, but I did

Philips Screwdriver
Flathead Screwdriver
Wire Strippers
Crimpers
Sissors
Knife/Utility Knife
10MM Socket and Wrench
Socket Wrench Extenders
Golves
Drill
Pliers/Robogrip
Kneepads (if your going to be on your knees alot during the install)
Few Cups/Trays/Holders (to hold screws)

Time:
Took me about 4 hours to do this.

Install:
1. Start by disconnecting your battery and turning off your Alarm (or putting it into Valet mode or whatever) Then remove everything from your glove box, your mats and move your seat back (or if you want to take it out completely). The ECU is on the passenger side of the car under the dash where your feet would go.



2. Remove the door sill, theres no screw on it, just pull it from one side and continue around. Sometimes you gotta give it a good yank to get it out.



3. Remove the glove box. Now theres 2 ways to do this. Remove the glove box itself OR Remove the glove box and the glove box surround (which is what i did, made it hell of alot easier to work under there). There are about 10 screws holding the glove box surround in. To remove the glove box theres a pin on one side, and a C type clamp thinggy on the other. Pull the C clamp thing out and pull to 1 side to take the pin out.




4. You have to remove the kickplates on both the passenger side of the car just infront of the door, and the passenger side near the center console. Both pull right now and have no screws holding them in. Pull the carpet back (with the insulation) and put it to the side (like fold it so its outta your way).




5. The ECU is mounted ON that silver metal plate that you see under the dash. Its held in by 4 10mm nuts. WEAR GLOVES the edges on that metal plate are sharp. You'll need the socket wrench extenders for the top 2 bolts. Remove the 4 bolts and pull on the metal plate, pull firmly but not like HE-MAN, as the ECU is mounted on that plate.



6. Where the wires go into the ECU (the connector) has a 10mm nut on there... unscrew it, it wont remove from the connector, but it allow the connector to remove from the ECU. Once thats done, take the ECU Plate/ECU and put it somewhere safe while you work on the Harness of the car.



7. Remove the top cap thats over the ECU connector (4 tabs you have to pull so it can be removed).



8. Now look at the AFC Wire Diagram and separate out the wires you will be working on. I did that and temporarly did a loose cable tie on the others so i dont get mixed up when i am working on the wires. Also the diagram of the wires is if your looking at the BACK of the connector.




9. Now you can prepare the wires on the AFC. I decided to make my install modular in the sense that i can take it out whenever i need to without much work to the harness it self. I used T Taps to tap into the wires that didnt need to but sent to the AFC Directly. For the other wires i used bullet connectors so i can disconnect them if i ever needed to and can put them back to stock. (Female and Male connectors were done in a specific way so that if i remove the AFC i dont have to redo the bullet connectors on the harness). Wire those up and make sure they are a good fit and wont pull out. Wrap some Electrical take to be on the safe side.

NOTE: you can also solder the wires in, which is probably better and a more permanent install, but if something goes wrong its that much harder to diagonse because you cannot simply remove the AFC easily.



10. Recheck your wires and make sure you tapped and connected the right ones and that all connections are sung

11. Run the vaccum line from the engine to your AFC. I 'T'ed into the line that goes to the BPV. I then ran the vac hose from there to where the main engine harness goes thru the firewall but i couldnt get it through with all the other wires. So i took the drill and make a small hole on the end of the rubber fitting (was 'dead' area there, no wires going through there). I ran the vac line though there and to the AFC.



12. Recheck your Vaccum lines that you 'T'ed into and make sure they are all one and your line going to the AFC is not kinked or ripped or anything.

13. Once you have everything hooked up and its all checked. Do a test. Reconnect the battery and fire up the car. If all is well lets go to the next step. If your s*** dont work, check the wiring and make sure all the connections are good and go from there.



14. Now were gonna start putting the car back together and mount the AFC. I had some wire looming stuff that i had used to make the wires for the AFC neat. The foil one that i used has fiberglass inside. Apparently that looming is supposed to reflect other signals, and have heat reducing properties. Make the wires going to the ECU neat. Wrap them up, and also wrap up part of the main harness too (i did it with some electrical tape since the other loom wasnt big enough)




15. Connect the Harness back to the ECU and mount the ECU plate back. Careful not the cut/rip any wires. Maybe a bit of a tight fit because youve added some wires. Just play with it abit to see what works best. Once you bolt back up the ECU plate and all that. Start to put the carpet back. Also at this point make your wires to the AFC Neat and tidy.



16. I mounted my AFC in the glove box. I wanted it there so i can have easy access to the unit and also the the Serial port to connect it to my laptop. I did a easy install in the glove box. I basically drilled 3 small holes.. 2 for the holes that match up to the AFC mounting and 1 extra that goes further in the glove box (near the 2nd hole for the mounting). Mount the glovebox back up after drilling the holes. I used zip ties and tied the AFC in place and its pretty snug in there. Doesnt move around at all. Then run your wires through the top. Make sure you tie it or whatever in place so the wires dont get tangled when the glove box closes and the vav line doesnt get pinched.





17. Once your all done that, do 1 more test run. Fire up the car. If you have a problem back track, chances are you cut/pulled/ripped a wire or something when putting everything back together. If it works and everything is good, then button everything else up. Put the kickplates back on. The door sills. And your all set!



18. Go for a boot, have fun, and enjoy Tuning!




IMPRESSIONS:
Currently the car is stock and all i did was add the AFC. Theres a BIG difference in the way the car drives now. Theres a slight noticeably increse in power (buttdyno!, but will be going to a real one soon), but the bigger improvement stock is the drivability of the car. Theres more 'pep' to her throughout the whole powerband. She stutters less, easier to drive, no hesitation anywhere and this is with the preloaded stock supermap! I totally recommend this to anyone!

NOTES:
Originally Posted by DSMConvert
Ok under the options drop down menu the settings should be selected as follows for each category:

System Settings:
Vacuum/Pressure
Programmable Signal Calibrator

Engine Settings:
4 Cylinders
4 Stroke

Output Settings:
Pressure 0 to 30psi
Dont worry about output A
Output B: Over RPM OR Pressure (technically can be just the over pressure selection, but the rpm gives a safety zone incase you develope a severe boost leak)
Over RPM: 6000
Over Pressure: -1
Dont worry about the rest

You must do these in this order, otherwise the values wont be correct, ie -1 at vac/pressure is complete different from -1 at absolute...

AFC INSTALL SHEETS:

very nice how to!!!!! ive been thinking of getting the ss afc, how do you like it?

Thanks! i love the AFC i think its a fantasic unit. Its a good stepping stone if you want to tune and get more outta your car for some mods then when you step into the bigger forged and all that stuff you can go complete standalone and you'll have some idea what your doing... i love the unit i think its great.

Mods please sticky this thread.

I have the same setup and stock car. What a big diffrence it makes! It's true, car comes out of the flu days and into the good days! No jerking, smooth acceleration, leans out fuel where needed etc.... With a wideband on ver 2, you can datalog with PC and see where you need to tune fuel curve!

I recommend to all.

I have however made 2 wiring harnesses so that if you need to go to dealers to have warranty work done, in under 5 minutes, it's removed and you can run stock ecu! Also, if for any reason the SS AFC would die, not to stay stranded you simply plug in the jumper plug and off you go again.

Have fun all!(2thumbs)(headbang)

sticky?

i think the price of the AFC vs the pors is worth it

sticky?
very helpful i was thinking about getting one my self and cons?

I do believe that this is THE best how-to ever created in the history of the world!!! Great visual aids, very detailed! Fantastic guide indeed!

i will never drive without one again

I just printed this up and am more motivated than ever before to go out and finally install my AFC.

yeah, me too.

Mine's in the mail and now I'm looking forward to installing it even more!

Excellent write up. Keep in mind we now have the units which do timing control as well. All split second units can also control larger injectors, something that more expensive piggybacks are incapable of doing.

This how-to has been very usefull for me, thanks!
You should add a picture where to plug the "T" for the vacuum line to make it more complete.
If you don't want the AFC in your glove box, you can hide it underneath your cup holder. pass the wire on the right and pas the tubing on the left, there's another gromet (just behind the battery) easier to use than drilling holes!

Oh, one last thing, your better off not using the BPV vacuum line, not the cleanest source of vacuum for your SS AFC. There are a few cleaner vacuum lines on the TB. Try locating a "U" shape tube of 2 inches, it seems it was put there for the AFC!

subbing!

Good deal!

I'm about to attempt the install and have a few questions.

Can i make a toggle switch for the power line going to the AFC unit to make it easy to turn it on or off if needed? Or do you have to totally remove the AFC to go back to stock ECU?

Still undecided about getting an AEM wideband. Is it much easier to install at the same time vs. after?

Thanks very much.

if you power off the AFC the car will not run. you would need a bypass setup made for every wire. once the AFC is wired in to intercept and convert the signal, it will require some kind of power to do that. otherwise the signals will die at the box. the wideband is installed no easier with the AFC or down the road.

Hey martyy2k,

How did you do this exactly? Looking to do the same.
Thanks.

martyy2k said:

I have however made 2 wiring harnesses so that if you need to go to dealers to have warranty work done, in under 5 minutes, it's removed and you can run stock ecu! Also, if for any reason the SS AFC would die, not to stay stranded you simply plug in the jumper plug and off you go again.

Click to expand...

a tune should not be turned on and off? the way the car is tuned relys on the engines safety, regardless of going fast or driving normally.

a good tune gives you more power because the engine runs better and allows the engine to run as safe as possible with as much power as possible.