505zoom's complete MSP buildup (no 56k)

505zoom

Breathe
:
2003 MSP #119
Welcome to the 505 build thread. In here you will find one of the highest hp pulls ever done on a stock bottom end.

In addition to the above, you'll also find a shitload of rare and cool parts, back when this stuff was still fun almost a decade ago.

Enjoy.




2002


December ~

- Bought the car on the 6th, drove it for 6 months before the modding began -


2003


June ~

- Injen cold air intake -

First mod was the intake, and I ended up being the first person here to recieve mine. Slight power increase, and LOTS of noise with the thin aluminum piping. The gobbling was cool at first.


August ~

- Magnus 3" J-pipe back exhaust, JoeP FPR kit, BoostSciences Reliaboost MBC, Autometer AFR, Oil Pres, boost gauges -

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September ~

- iON FMIC -

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October ~

- HKS SSQV with recirculation fitting -

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November ~

- Reverse gauge overlays, BOV/BPV prototype -

The turkey kill setup had by far the biggest following out of any of my car projects. At last count, there was at least 30 board members from msprotege that were running it.

After installing the recirculating HKS SSQV in place of the stock unit, the gobbling noise became so annoying and loud that I just had to do something.

Sample vid of the sound at that point:

http://www.msprotege.com/members/505zoom/MOV00495.mpeg

See what I mean? How anyone finds that sound desireable is beyond me.

At this point in time, there was heavy debate about the source of the noise. It has always been my strong opinion that the stock 5/8" inlet and outlet fittings on the BPV system is the cause. This undersized in/out can not handle the needed flow to keep the ball bearing GT series turbo from surging, so reflected air from the throttle plate gets thrown back into the compressor fins and causes the gobble sound (much like when you speak into the blades of a spinning house fan). My attempts at using simple means of fixing the problem failed, so I decided to add a second valve. I had the stocker laying around, so with very little modification to the existing setup, I was able to run the HKS open vent and recirculate the stocker. This setup completely killed the surging, and had an added unforseen benefit... the car no longer stalled from the overly rich mixture that goes hand in hand with BOV equipped MAF cars. Since then, people have used other ways to get either result, but no other setup kills the turkey without stalling as easily and safely as the BOV/BPV setup.

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Sample vid of the new sound:

http://www.msprotege.com/members/505zoom/mov00516.mpg

A little bit of tweaking and re-doing the vac lines resulted in this:

http://www.msprotege.com/members/505zoom/mov00533.mpg

Slight tension adjustment on the BOV, and that's more like it:

http://www.msprotege.com/members/505zoom/mov00540.mpg

This one shows how much better the RPM behaves after a idle vent... on a normal BOV setup (with no MAF relocation), the RPM's would fall much faster and drop down to 500 or lower. It would then either die or kick itself back up to 800ish. I prefer the new way:

http://www.msprotege.com/members/505zoom/mov00590.mpg


December ~

- WingsWest CF hood -

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All in all a good year for me and the car. Only a precursor for what is about to happen in 2004 though.
 
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2004


January ~

- DG Motorsports CF upper front grill -

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April ~

- BoostSciences Prototype DSBC, MPI tuner, AEM wideband, AWR poly mounts -

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505 said:
04-19-2004, 12:49 AM
Let me just restate everyone elses comments about the rear motor mount. "Glad I don't have to do that again", lol. What a PITA that wiring harness is. That bottom bolt was not designed to come off with the motor in, haha. And to top it all off, after we finally had the new one in, the motor had shifted about 1/2 an inch to the drivers side so we had to lift the motor from 3 different points and loosen all of the other mounts to get all of the bolts back in. All in all it took about 6 hours for the rear mount alone. Did I mention that the wiring harness can kiss my ass? lol. Vibration is quite noticeable, but nothing even close to unbearable unless right at 1500rpm.

505 said:
04-20-2004, 08:18 PM
Yes!!! I am in!:) We are going to finish the wiring of the mpi tuner and turbo module now! The software looks great, and I am starting to realize the possibilities with this unit. The injectors got pushed back to next week, but that will give me some extra time to get familiar with the software at stock boost levels so I don't make any costly mistakes. Nick was extremely helpful with my problems, and it turns out that I just needed to install the older software to get in with the key I have, and then update to the newer software after I was in. Strange, but I am just glad it's running.:)

I'll post late tonight after startup goes down.:D

Oh and I forgot to mention earlier... I forgot to fully tighten one of the clamps on the dual stage proto, and popped the wastegate line off of the high controller.:( I spiked up to 17.4 psi according to the tattle tell on my TT:(. I saw the warning light go off on the boost gauge, heard a few pings, fuel cut, and let off the gas, all in less than a second... lol, it was like slow motion once I saw the warning. All this with no fcd, so please be careful when modding the boost folks. If I hadn't let off so quickly, it could have been a bad situation.

505 said:
04-21-2004, 01:35 PM
I took several pics last night, and will take more when we finish tonight. Dave will be here at about 6 to finish the soldering, and then we are going to proceed with the startup and idle tuning. Then it is on to the rev tuning, and finally the load tuning, those will most likely be done tomorrow.

I will post larger and higher quality pics when I get home and back on the cable modem, this ultra slow dial up I am on right now sucks big time.:)

Dave soldering:
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This is where we tapped into most of the wires for the install, the zip ties are there to mark which wires we cut:
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This is where we mounted the MPI tuner and turbo module, the com cable for the laptop will come neatly out of the glove box, so I can easily hide it when the laptop is not in the car:
MPI%20mount.jpg

505 said:
04-25-2004, 02:28 PM
I just got back, good vacation weekend with my gf.:) I need to locate some new plugs since I fouled mine out playing with the tuner. It was just too much fun to make adjustments on the laptop and watch the A/F gauge go from lean to rich, and I got a little carried away, lol. Bye bye Autometer A/F, hello UEGO WBo2:

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I can't believe this, but my exhaust is causing me some more problems.(argh) When magnus put in the wideband sensor bung, they drilled the hole in the piping too small for a sensor to go through. The bung is the proper threading, but I can feel a small lip inside it where it meets the piping that is keeping the sensor from going in. I need to wait for Dave to get here with his dremel so we can bore it out a little, and make the hole big enough for the sensor to go in. The gauge is wired up, and I am almost set, but Dave can't get here for a few hours. I am going to go watch a movie and then resume the project later when he gets here. I'll post again later tonight.

-Rich
 
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May ~

- MPI secondary injectors, BOV/BPV revision #1, BoostSciences DS2 prototype, BoostSciences BPV prototype, DG Motorports CF motor cover -

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505 said:
Here are some more pics:

Better close up of Skip's awesome welding:
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In the car:
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Sound clip of BOV/BPV #2:

http://www.msprotege.com/members/505zoom/BOV vid4.mov

505 said:
05-24-2004, 06:43 PM
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July ~

- BoostSciences DS1 (final prototype), hosetechniques silicone, Injen SRI conversion with A'PEXi filter -

505 said:
07-02-2004, 09:44 PM

Got a package from Mental Addiction today, the first of the new stuff has arrived.:D

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August ~

- BoostSciences DS1 (original production version), PWR aluminum radiator -

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September ~

- A'PEXi EL2 exhaust gas temp gauge -

505 said:
09-08-2004, 05:25 PM
I put in the EL2 EGT gauge and controller today, and got the sensor portion hooked up finally. I made a conversion fitting over at home depot so I could screw the EGT bung into my spare o2 sensor bung on the downpipe. I might still put the sensor in the manifold when I have it off for the turbo install, but this way was very easy and I wanted to get it up and running.

If anyone is interested, I will have the EL1 EGT that I took out in the FS section. I used the gauge for a day, and the sensor was never installed.


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Some new night pics:

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The needle on the EL2 gauges is always lit, so this is what it looks like with my headlights turned off at night. It has a really cool almost firey glow to it:

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October ~

- Garrett GT28RS -

505 said:
10-16-2004, 03:24 PM
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The stock wastegate bracket was too small to fit the new turbo. The holes on the bracket were too close together to line up with the bolts on the larger compressor. The GT28RS wastegate did not line up after the turbo was clocked for the msp, so I had to do a little rotozipping on the stock bracket to make something for the bolts to hold down. I basically just cut two half circles on the outer edge of the bracket, giving the bolt something to hold. It all works great, and with the stock actuator I am running about 6psi on the disco.

I broke most of the turbine side studs when taking out the stock turbo, including 1 that was threaded into the exhaust manifold. It was a task to get everything out and find new studs, but I soaked them in PB blaster for 24 hours and then used a broken bolt puller that I picked up at Sears (thanks for the tip on that one Jared). Another fellow board member came to the rescue when he made some new studs for me down at the community college (Thanks again so much Kelly). The studs he made were a perfect fit, and he used some very strong tool steel to make them. The dealer said it was a special order, and it would have added almost a week to the project. ARP can also source the studs, if anyone ever needs them the size is M8-1.25 x 40mm. These are the studs that are used for bolting the exhaust manny to the motor and also to the turbo... they are also used for bolting the spipe to the turbo.

After the stud problem was taken care of, it was pretty smooth sailing. The oil and coolant lines needed very little modification to make them fit, that is after the turbo was reclocked to make the center section line up properly.

The intake was a breeze to make... I called up hoover down at turbohoses and he sent me a sleeved 3" 45* coupler. The sleeve makes one end go down to 2.75". I just hacked off the end of the injen piping where it funnels down to the stock compressor inlet size, and replaced it with the turbohoses coupler. Perfect fit, and everything is really solid.

All in all, this project took a little more time than I thought it would, but it was well worth it. The issues I had were minor, and I must say that I was very lucky to have this much success on my first solo turbo swap.:D

New turbo all set up:

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Here is the modified intake:

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Here is one of the studs that crazybassmp5 made for me compared to the stock one:

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Finished product:

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November ~

- Wings West front bumper cover, custom CF eyelids -

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March ~

- MAM FMIC kit, blue HVAC conversion, leadfoot's gauge pod -

Mental Addiction Dyno Wars event. I had a great time and met a lot of people from the forum... Ryan, (RyanJayG), Pat (PDHaudio), Jamie (Tekkie), Patrick (linuxracr), all helped a ton with the intercooler install, and Pat's built motor/sleeper kit install was going on at the same time. It ended up being a late night of installs (the night before the event), and the SRT guys that were using the dyno right next to us were deafening, haha. The day of the event was cut short for me for several reasons, and I didn't get to stay for as long as I wanted to.

Pics of the drive out:

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The event:

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On the way back home to New Mexico, my primary o2 sensor harness melted, and it popped the engine fuse. I didn't have any spares, so I had to get a tow to the nearest town. Picked up some fuses and rewired the o2 sensor in a parking lot in Holbrooke Arizona, and ended up only losing about an hour overall. Thank god for AAA, haha.

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iON core (top) vs MAM core:

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Pics of the new kit:

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Hit the dyno again, picked up 5whp over the old setup.

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To match my reverse overlays on the stock cluster, I pulled the orange plexi shield out from the HVAC cluster, and replaced the orange bulbs with blue LED's. After wiring in 3 extra LED's, it turned out pretty good.

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Also threw in the leadfoot bezel:

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April ~

- MAM vacuum block, BoostSciences DS2 -

Pretty simple stuff here, just cleaned up the signal lines and upgraded the controller to the full DS2 setup. Boost is 12psi for high and 9psi for low.

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May ~

- Optima Red Top battery -

Stock battery died, so I picked this universal up at the local speed shop for 90 bucks.

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July ~

- MAM 3" DP, SPEC S3H clutch, SPEC aluminum flywheel, Espelir lowering springs, Tokico Illumina struts, solid grill borders for hood vents, MSM oil filler cap, MS 1.3 bar radiator cap -

Made a trip back out to Mental Addiction, and this time we went to town. Did the clutch and flywheel, lowered it, and made a TRUE 3" DP. Had a blast on this trip and stayed out there with my girlfriend for a little over a week. Beau and his wife were awesome hosts to both of us, and we all got a lot done while we were there.

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August ~

- Dyno. 277whp. Woot! -

Dyno compilation video:

http://www.stimulated.net/pub/505zoom-buildup-compilation.mov

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September ~

- Gauge setup completed, protege5online steering column pod -

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2007


October ~

First startup all year. I ran it down to about a gallon of fuel before garaging it, but forgot to add any sta-bil. Was a little worried about the fuel, but I ended up just adding 5 fresh gallons for the first start. Drained a little coolant and it was clean. Changed the (what could have passed as fresh) oil and put a new filter on. Swapped in a new battery because the Optima was toast, and she fired right up. Stumbled a tiny bit for about 5 seconds, and then it sounded just like the old days. Drove right up to the filling station and topped it off.

I also threw the stockies back on with some new Fuzion ZRi tires, and painted the front half of the DG engine cover.

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After 3 days of driving it, I was cleaning up the engine bay and noticed that the coolant in the overflow bottle was NASTY looking. Opened up the cap and it looked like liquid rust. Not good. So I spend the next 3 days draining, rinsing, refilling, heat-cycling, draining, repeat over and over and over. Probably flushed the system close to 20 times.

Gauge illumination all goes out on the night before the last day of dealing with the coolant system mess. So for my final heat-cycle drive, I swing up to autozone to grab some fuses, and pop a new one in on the circuit that I run the gauge illumination off of. Start the car, hit the lights to see if they work, and POP! Tons of smoke now pouring out from under my steering wheel. Fearing fire in my lap and my car burning down to the ground, I don't think I've ever moved so fast. Popped hood, loosened battery with wrench that was luckily still in my pocket, and yanked the connection.

Turns out that when I swapped from the Autometer AFR to the AEM WB, I missed the illumination wire and it was still chilling in there. It somehow waited two years to find a connection, but when it did, it went up in a heartbeat. about 18" of wire, and there wasn't even a hint of any insulation left on it. Bare copper. Luckily it was ran pretty bad, don't know what I was smoking when I did those wires, so it didn't really do much damage to any other wires under the dash. Bullet dodged.

So I rip all of the wiring out for all of the accessories... gauges, TT, MBC switch, alarm, overlays... all of it came out and got re-done. Amazing how much cleaner you can make the wiring when all of the accessories are being done at once, rather than one at a time over a few years. All is well and good now with the wiring and the coolant system.


November ~

- Medieval (power steering, alternator, and water pump) pulleys, Gates accessory belts -

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March ~


- 505 Intake Manifold Prototype -

This thing pretty much consumed a year and a half of my MSP life. Very little else was done with the car other than making this part and doing minor refinements on existing stuff. This is also the month I bought my truck and I was working on it a lot while the MSP sat in the garage.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123691754-505-Intake-Manifold-COMPLETED!&highlight=

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2009


December ~


- 505 IC Piping v2 -

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...05-s-Clocked-28RS-MSP-WGA-(redeux)&highlight=


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Soundclip running 10 spike - 8.5 hold:

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/S_Dt0i-7Dz4&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/S_Dt0i-7Dz4&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>



A couple notes to close:

- This setup runs 5-6psi when not using a boost controller.

- The clearance is tight in a few spots. The heatshield on the WGA almost hits the hard coolant pipe that runs between it and the block. The coolant lines to the turbo are super tight around the comp housing. The charge piping sits pretty close to the downpipe... about 3/4".

- The path from the turbo to the IC is less than a foot and a half. (rockon)



2010


January ~

- Custom XC RC hood -

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123764437-505-s-Custom-XC-RC-Hood&highlight=

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- Current mods to date -


Turbo and Induction:

505 prototype 3" Cold Air Box
Garrett GT28RS (.86 turbine)
505 2.5" aluminum IC piping
Spearco W.A.V.E. FMIC
505 prototype intake manifold
BoostSciences prototype mini DSBC
BoostSciences REFLEX DV


Exhaust:

Mental Addiction Motorsports tubular exhaust manifold
Mental Addiction Motorsports prototype 3" downpipe
Magnaflow 3" metallic high-flow cat
Allen's Exhaust 3" x 14" resonator (x2)
Saber 3" muffler


Also under the hood:

Medieval full pulley set
Medieval front, rear, and side motor mounts
PWR aluminum radiator
SPAL 12" & 9" slimline electric fans
Dexter's custom dual hood props
1sty full engine grounding kit


Transmission:

GTX 3rd and 5th gears
Welded 1st gen OEM LSD
SPEC stage 3 hybrid clutch
SPEC aluminum 7.5lb flywheel
Medieval transmission mount
KartBoy poly shifter bushings
Bronzoil linkage bushings


EMS/Monitoring:

Modern Performance piggyback
J&S SafeGuard
Flyin' Miata voltage clamp
AEM UEGO wide-band o2 gauge
Stewart Warner boost/vac gauge
Stewart Warner oil pressure gauge
A'PEXi EL2 exhaust gas temperature gauge
Blitz DTT DCII turbo timer
Beltronics VectorFX accelerometer


Suspension/Wheels/Tires:

Tokico Illumina adjustable struts
Espelir lowering springs
Delsing Motorsports rear sway bar brackets
Delsing Motorsports billet rear endlinks
Momo Corse RPM wheels 17 x 7 (+42)
Fuzion ZR-i tires 215/45/zr17


Carbon Fiber:

Custom XceleratedConcepts RC hood
JSP trunk
DG engine cover
DG front grill frame (with WW 3D mesh)
DG mirror covers
DG latch cover


Interior:

Mental Addiction Motorsports Aluminum door lock bezel
DaveB aluminum gauge rings
Reverse indiglo gauge overlays
Blue HVAC controls
Building-grade mirror blue tint
Leadfoot gauge cluster bezel pod
Protege5online steering wheel column gauge pod


Lighting:

PlasmaGlow blue xenon headlights
PlasmaGlow yellow xenon foglights
RockBlocker blue headlight protection


Audio/Electronics/Security:

Eclipse CD3200
MBQuart referenz series speakers (6.5 components front, 5.25 mids rear)
Xtant 3300c
JL Audio 8W7
Clifford Matrix RS2.5X remote start/2 way security system
Bel 735i radar/laser detector
Hella Supertones (German 85115)
 
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