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How To: P5 Bumper/03.5 Lip On ES/LX
As written by Clay Rogers
My roomate(ph8ed4life) and I did this in about 35 minutes or so. Anyways things that you need are as follows:
Disclaimer: If you chose to do this and something wrong happens/breaks, it is solely your fault. I claim no responsibility on the completeness and/or correctness of this writeup.
Angle Grinder (To cut the plastic reinforcement)
Hammer (To beat the hell out of the reinforcement to get it off)
Flathead Screwdriver (To chisel away at the reinforcement when you can't reach with the angle grinder, and pop out plastic clip things)
Phillips Screwdriver (To take bumper off)
Socket Wrench (To take bumper off)
6-10mm sockets (Mazda replaced my bumper so all of these sizes were holding it up, will be different on yours)
GLOVES (The glue/plastic on the reinforcement gets really hot, get some gloves!! We learned the hard way!)
Flashlight
3M Double Sided Tape (The red, 5lb super heavy duty - this is to adhere the lip to the bumper)
6 6mm nuts (for the lip to bolt onto the bumper)
2 10mm bolts (to secure lip to bumper on bottom)
Friend (Helps a lot to have someone along with you.
Beer (Keeps you calm)
I took this from DiS' How-to: 3rd gen. DX/LX fog lights instalation (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123618914) because it was well written.
Installation of the 03.5 Lip on the P5 bumper
This is pretty simple and straight forward.
1. Tape the areas shown in the picture. I taped it on the lip first, but I don't think it matters. Be sure to leave the red plastic stuff on!
2. Get some rags or somthing to put around the edges of the lip, so you don't scratch the bumper.
3. Push the lip onto the bumper lining up the screws to the foglight hole. Push it on most of the way (out enough so you can take the red stuff off the tape).
4. Take the red stuff off, and press it all together.
5. Put the 6mm nuts on the back behind the foglight holes, and the 2 10mm bolts through the bottom.
Removal of bumper:
1. remove plastic screws (clips) from wheel well and put them in a safe place so you wont lose them
2. remove 2 screws at the bottom of the bumper (each screw is located on the bottom of the bumper in front of the wheel. This is where short stubby screw driver comes in handy)
3. get under the front bumper and remove 6 (i think 6) 10mm bolts that hold bumper and plastic under-carriage spash guards in place.
4. remove two 12mm bolts (i think they're 12mm if not then 14mm...I'll double check that) that are located under the bumper in the middle (they are about one foot apart from each other)
5. Grab your long philips screw driver, sit next to the wheel (on each side) bend the wheel well plastic towards the wheel. There is a screw on each side behind the bumper, that holds it to the chassis. Remove it. It is on the same level as the headlight. Stick your hand in there and you should find it with no problem. The hat of the screw is pointing towards the rear of the car.
6. Once 1st 5 steps are completed, grab bumper from one side and let your friend grab it from another end. The bumper is sitting on two tabs. Each tab is located under the corner of the headlight. ATENTION!!! BE CAREFUL!!! Pull the bumper upwards and then pull it forwards away from the car. Be carefull pulling it away from the car. Make sure that the bumper is off those tabs otherwise you might brake the points (o-shaped) that are sitting on the tabs.
Cutting the reinforcement
1. Get the grinder and cut as shown in the picture. I am sorry I didn't measure it, but didn't think of it. Just look at the picture and assess. It took us many trial fits to get it right, so try try again. The plastic is very hot so put some gloves on! Use the hammer to help knock the pieces out when they are cut.
2. Do the same to the other side. It will look like this when you are done. You still have more cutting left...
3. Now there is a little more cutting to be done. This is a little more difficult because you can't get the angle grinder in all the way, so use the screwdriver and hammer to chisel what you can't get at. Cut to a little bit right of the little nub (on the driver's side). Be careful when cutting through because there is metal and the airbag sensor behind the reinforcement.
4. Do the same on the other side.
****Be careful when cutting through because there is metal and the airbag sensor behind the reinforcement as shown below.****
When all said and done it should look like this
5. There is a black plate in the front that must be taken out for it to fit. The picture shows the plate highlighted in yellow, the screws are highlited in red.
6. Cut off the two tabs on the back of the P5 bumper. They are right below where the grill goes and above the bottom opening. They are little "t" looking things sticking out a quarter inch or so, that I assume are for license plates. They kept the bumper from sitting right.
7. Put the bumper on and you are done!!!
The only complications from the swap are ; a P5 grill is needed because the stock Protege does not sit right (I am using my stocko for the time being), and the P5 spash guards are needed as the Protege ones do not cover the bottom completely (I just zip tied my stock ones up for now, till I get the P5 ones).
The finished product!!
As written by Clay Rogers
My roomate(ph8ed4life) and I did this in about 35 minutes or so. Anyways things that you need are as follows:
Disclaimer: If you chose to do this and something wrong happens/breaks, it is solely your fault. I claim no responsibility on the completeness and/or correctness of this writeup.
Angle Grinder (To cut the plastic reinforcement)
Hammer (To beat the hell out of the reinforcement to get it off)
Flathead Screwdriver (To chisel away at the reinforcement when you can't reach with the angle grinder, and pop out plastic clip things)
Phillips Screwdriver (To take bumper off)
Socket Wrench (To take bumper off)
6-10mm sockets (Mazda replaced my bumper so all of these sizes were holding it up, will be different on yours)
GLOVES (The glue/plastic on the reinforcement gets really hot, get some gloves!! We learned the hard way!)
Flashlight
3M Double Sided Tape (The red, 5lb super heavy duty - this is to adhere the lip to the bumper)
6 6mm nuts (for the lip to bolt onto the bumper)
2 10mm bolts (to secure lip to bumper on bottom)
Friend (Helps a lot to have someone along with you.
Beer (Keeps you calm)
I took this from DiS' How-to: 3rd gen. DX/LX fog lights instalation (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123618914) because it was well written.
Installation of the 03.5 Lip on the P5 bumper
This is pretty simple and straight forward.
1. Tape the areas shown in the picture. I taped it on the lip first, but I don't think it matters. Be sure to leave the red plastic stuff on!
2. Get some rags or somthing to put around the edges of the lip, so you don't scratch the bumper.
3. Push the lip onto the bumper lining up the screws to the foglight hole. Push it on most of the way (out enough so you can take the red stuff off the tape).
4. Take the red stuff off, and press it all together.
5. Put the 6mm nuts on the back behind the foglight holes, and the 2 10mm bolts through the bottom.
Removal of bumper:
1. remove plastic screws (clips) from wheel well and put them in a safe place so you wont lose them
2. remove 2 screws at the bottom of the bumper (each screw is located on the bottom of the bumper in front of the wheel. This is where short stubby screw driver comes in handy)
3. get under the front bumper and remove 6 (i think 6) 10mm bolts that hold bumper and plastic under-carriage spash guards in place.
4. remove two 12mm bolts (i think they're 12mm if not then 14mm...I'll double check that) that are located under the bumper in the middle (they are about one foot apart from each other)
5. Grab your long philips screw driver, sit next to the wheel (on each side) bend the wheel well plastic towards the wheel. There is a screw on each side behind the bumper, that holds it to the chassis. Remove it. It is on the same level as the headlight. Stick your hand in there and you should find it with no problem. The hat of the screw is pointing towards the rear of the car.
6. Once 1st 5 steps are completed, grab bumper from one side and let your friend grab it from another end. The bumper is sitting on two tabs. Each tab is located under the corner of the headlight. ATENTION!!! BE CAREFUL!!! Pull the bumper upwards and then pull it forwards away from the car. Be carefull pulling it away from the car. Make sure that the bumper is off those tabs otherwise you might brake the points (o-shaped) that are sitting on the tabs.
Cutting the reinforcement
1. Get the grinder and cut as shown in the picture. I am sorry I didn't measure it, but didn't think of it. Just look at the picture and assess. It took us many trial fits to get it right, so try try again. The plastic is very hot so put some gloves on! Use the hammer to help knock the pieces out when they are cut.
2. Do the same to the other side. It will look like this when you are done. You still have more cutting left...
3. Now there is a little more cutting to be done. This is a little more difficult because you can't get the angle grinder in all the way, so use the screwdriver and hammer to chisel what you can't get at. Cut to a little bit right of the little nub (on the driver's side). Be careful when cutting through because there is metal and the airbag sensor behind the reinforcement.
4. Do the same on the other side.
****Be careful when cutting through because there is metal and the airbag sensor behind the reinforcement as shown below.****
When all said and done it should look like this
5. There is a black plate in the front that must be taken out for it to fit. The picture shows the plate highlighted in yellow, the screws are highlited in red.
6. Cut off the two tabs on the back of the P5 bumper. They are right below where the grill goes and above the bottom opening. They are little "t" looking things sticking out a quarter inch or so, that I assume are for license plates. They kept the bumper from sitting right.
7. Put the bumper on and you are done!!!
The only complications from the swap are ; a P5 grill is needed because the stock Protege does not sit right (I am using my stocko for the time being), and the P5 spash guards are needed as the Protege ones do not cover the bottom completely (I just zip tied my stock ones up for now, till I get the P5 ones).
The finished product!!
Last edited:
