What have you done to your MSP today?

So I thought I had the overheating issue fixed but it got hot again yesterday and the coolant was low. I replaced the HG only a couple months ago, new water pump only a couple weeks ago, new coolant, newer silicone rad hoses. Can't find any leaks even when it's running, mishimoto rad that is not visibly leaking, new cap (tried three different caps), fans are working fine and kick on normally. Burped the system multiple times and it works fine for a while then it starts to get hot. Gauge never reaches all the way hot just about 3/4 then drops to normal, doesn't get hot when sitting still only after boosting and putting the engine under load. The system must be loosing coolant somehow but the car is running great and the coolant isn't bubbling like the HG is bad. My last option is to replace the thermostat, unless somehow the turbo is causing the coolant to become excessively hot? I'm so tired of messing with what should have been a simple fix.

I'm sure you did already because you are one of the smarter MSP owners lol but I'll ask anyways. Did you burp the system?
 
Though it's "deleted" now and by that I mean the compressor has been bypassed.
 
Quick stupid question for you guys. On the master cylinder is the front brake line for the front brakes and vise versa or is it the other way round?
 
Quick stupid question for you guys. On the master cylinder is the front brake line for the front brakes and vise versa or is it the other way round?

I'm fairly certain it's a front/rear system and isn't a diagonal system, though I'm not 100%, but rule of thumb on front/rear split systems is Font|Front/Rear|Rear. I really, really doubt the Protg uses a diagonal system, though it may.
 
So I thought I had the overheating issue fixed but it got hot again yesterday and the coolant was low. I replaced the HG only a couple months ago, new water pump only a couple weeks ago, new coolant, newer silicone rad hoses. Can't find any leaks even when it's running, mishimoto rad that is not visibly leaking, new cap (tried three different caps), fans are working fine and kick on normally. Burped the system multiple times and it works fine for a while then it starts to get hot. Gauge never reaches all the way hot just about 3/4 then drops to normal, doesn't get hot when sitting still only after boosting and putting the engine under load. The system must be loosing coolant somehow but the car is running great and the coolant isn't bubbling like the HG is bad. My last option is to replace the thermostat, unless somehow the turbo is causing the coolant to become excessively hot? I'm so tired of messing with what should have been a simple fix.

I'm sure you did already because you are one of the smarter MSP owners lol but I'll ask anyways. Did you burp the system?
Lol, yep.
Can you smell coolant when you stop? I have a very small leak in my cooling system thats been eluding me for quite sometime. After reading about the radiator cap Im starting to think thats where my issue lies. My car doesnt overheat at all though.
Could smell coolant when the motor was hot, but that is because of it spraying out the cap and overflow from boiling over.

So it definitely was the thermostat, kinda feel dumb but relieved it's running properly again. The thermostat isn't too old but hey, s*** happens. Put my 19lb mishimoto cap back on and burped it and it's back to normal.

No, it's just easy to evacuate and recharge it.
If you have a machine then yes, it is. Need to fix a leak in the low side line and recharge my AC in #1345, summer is gonna be here in no time.
 
2008-2010 mazda 5 oem rims. though after sticking them on the black p5, i almost dont want to paint them.. i was thinking black or bronze, or gunmetal, something neutral.. but.. they just look good in silver.

cooling issues can be a real headache. i chased this on my wifes es and replaced almost everything in the coolant system. first was water pump cause it blew up, obvious.. but then i changed a thermostat, then a rad. then the rad hoses ect. from googleing around it was suggested to check the heater hoses for leaks or crunchiness. its possible one of them, being so small is allowing air in, or leaking water out which could create a cavitation in the coolant system. fortunately, i havent dealt with it on the msp yet.
its possible your turbo has really bad bearings and gets really hot, but pretty unlikely bearings that worn out would allow it to spool properly.
Ahhh I recognize them now, they will look good on a P5. Luckily I pulled my hot pipe off and despite it having 165k miles and running 10lbs the past 60k or so the pipes and turbo are dry as a bone. *knock on wood*.
 
i got to thinking today about how much my msp might need... thinking of putting it back into storage for another year.. is the msp turbo setup swap as easy as it looks? just drop the bolted stuff in the bay and plug in the msp ecu? im gonna fix the rusty fenders and replace the hatch on my p5 and repaint it. was gonna keep it around as a winter beater but its much more practical than the msp as a daily.. maybe ill build the msp as a fun car? i dunno. the msp isnt like super amazing fast compared to the p5 so its a difficult decision about what to do with it.
 
meh. prob makes more sense to do the mods to the p5 i want this year and work on the msp over the next 5. p5 needs struts/brakes/exhaust and a buttload of body work. i was gonna use it as a donor car for parts but the engine in it is strong.. interior is in great shape and everything works. it has some rust holes and a rusty hatch, but im confident i could replace the fenders and hatch and paint the entire car for under $1000. i Paid $500 for it, it needs the brakes for $200 and ebay struts no big deal.
then im only a little more than it costs for the mfactory shyte i needed.. but the msp might need much more.. if compression was so much lower in the 1/2 banks id prob need a headgasket at minimum, which means i might as well at least do a k1/weisco rebuild on it. that prob $2500.. then why do i have a $950 manifold/downpipe sitting here if im just gonna run the stock turbo? lol.
i love my msp but if i was in it for just a fun car, wouldnt a miata be cheaper and easier to modify and more fun?
 
shoooooot i wish i could find a p5 for that cheap. i'd def fix the rust and keep it. you already seem like you want to keep the msp forever so i dont think you'll be replacing it with a miata. if anything you'll just buy a miata to add to your collection. weeeeee
 
I parted everything msp 2-3 years ago and bought a trans am then sold it for a 944. Now I'm back. My only gripe is that I'm a convertible nut and I miss dropping the top. For all its shortcomings the msp is a ton of fun. The chassis is toss-able, responsive, and light on its feet. The car is a great back road dance partner that can also be reasonably practical. I vote keep 'em. I doubt they'll ever be big money collectors cars, but they're dropping like flys do to rust, accidents, and breakage. There weren't many to begin with and a nice one will be something pretty special soon.
 
I basically baught the msp new for what it cost. Definitely not dumping it for what its worth now heh.

There is a local guy looking to part his p5 though. Doesn't run and needs new engine but if its manual, it looks to be in much better shape than mine. I could prob swap hearts with help pretty easily.
Good body to me is nore important than mechanics. Parts for these cars are cheap.
 
bwa ha. picking up a silver roller with no rust for $300 tommorrow. does anyone have any interest in a set of p5 headlights? i might look to get rid of the ones i painted and paint the new ones for myself.
 
Quick question guys, So my MSP car works perfectly fine. Today I stopped at gnc to buy a few things. I was there for about 15-20 minutes. Then I jumped in the car again, cranked it. It started then in 2 seconds it decreased rpms until it died. I cranked it again and revved it up for awhile and maintained it at 2000 rpms. After that it ran fine. I know this question is a little peculiar especially because its not a major problem but what do you think it was? That never happened to me before. Spark plugs were properly gapped about 6 months ago. Coilpacks are about 2 years old. Maf sensor was cleaned about 3-4 months.
 
im still having no luck with my transmission... this is starting to just be more of a nascence. ive had this transmission out 3 times in the past few weeks... but on another note i cut the ssftc out and got my haltech started laying out. going to be a fun project here.
 
I might want to get another ssafc for my p5 if your gonna get rid of it. not in a hurry, but thinking of putting the msp turbo setup onto the p5 im detailing.
 
Got a lot of work done on 1574, axles are in, belts are on and tight, IM is cleaned and installed, new injector seals installed, new passenger motor mount in, VTCS flaps deleted, I wasn't sure of the year of the car the motor came out of and the MSP IM was full of oil so I put red loc-tite on the VICS flap screws to be safe, EGR cleaned, new TB and manifold gaskets installed, solenoids and vac lines installed, exhaust mid-pipe reinstalled, routed and installed the piping for the cold pipe and began routing the hot pipe. Still need to get the radiator back from my local MSP buddy that has been using it the past few weeks and install that. Also need to get the manifold and muffler back when they are completed so I can install the turbo and exhaust. Once the turbo and radiator are in I can finish routing the hot pipe, fill the trans and engine with fluids and see if the gas in the tank is still fresh enough to burn.
 
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