Just don't leave any roof open when it's raining...
UPDATE: I finally did the suggested test - phase 1. I have oil in in my cylinders with a cold engine. The first time I did the valve seals (new from Mazda), it was my very first time and I used a 1/4" drive deep socket (9mm I think?) to press them into position and it's possible that one or more weren't seated properly. However when I did the job the second time, again with new seals from Mazda - I used the awesome Toyo tool, including for the install of the seals (thus ruling out depth issues) I don't see how there could be a problem - seemed very straight forward once you get the hang of it. Am I missing something? Could there be a problem with something else? Valve guides? I am going through a lot of (expensive synthetic) oil - seems like more than before. I'm guessing it pointless to consider rings at this point until I figure out the startup oil?
Cylinders #1,#3 were obviously wet - #2 and #4 just very dirty - perhaps coincidental due to valve position at shutdown?
On a (slightly?) more happy note, I took the lower engine cover off yesterday and had a look around the base of the timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley - it does seem like it's dry after all - I'm going to clean it with brakeclean and check again - I actually think it might be the oil pan seal, or one or two bolts on the passenger side. The "gasket" appears to be grey sealant of some kind - the service manual doesn't show a gasket, rather silicone sealant. I tightened two suspect bolts - but the factory torque specs (14-18 foot pounds for the FS) are quite light to begin with. Is this common to suddenly start seeping (lightly) in this area? I hope it doesn't leak worse from over torquing.
My car is running poorly again - idle is fine - it's accelerating and shifting that are the problem - up until about 4,000 RPM and 4 or 5 gear then I don't notice the symptoms. Sometimes I get surging during acceleration - jerky throttle response, bucking when shifting (kind of like what you get when you have intake leaks) however I sprayed carb cleaner on all the fuel injector IM ports and the areas (topside) of the IM I could access. No obvious leaks. No engine codes.
Edited for UPDATE: Got the e-clip on the VTCS rod - FINALLY! At least I can rule that out.
If it isn't air, what else could it be? I checked every electrical connection and vacuum line I thought I might have disturbed and I don't see anything obvious.
Any thoughts?