I only plan on doing footwell lighting for front and second row. The third row stays folded down most of the time so its unnecessary IMO.
That's the door to access the adjustment knob for the parking brake. As long as you can still pry it open if needed you're fine.Got the USB charger mounted and wires ran. Sacrificed a little access door directly behind the handbrake. Not sure what that is there for, there is nothing behind the door.
Found the 2nd row dome light is a b&#$h to work with. Only way I saw to reinstall it was to partially pull the headliner. Ambient lighting is on hold for now, and will be second row only...
...because it's not needed for a row of seats just used on occasion. What IS. needed is a much better cargo area light. Poked around this area tonight and realized the only thing the light does is blind me. I shrouded the top edge with electrical tape temporarily and it's a good improvement.
What is needed is better lighting. Found some high output 10mm LEDs that will be great. Looks like the light is triggered by the latch on the hatch so if there's switched power there I might just add lighting here too as a sort of puddle lamp.
That's the door to access the adjustment knob for the parking brake. As long as you can still pry it open if needed you're fine.
Wow, congrats - you've got a decent alignment shop if they only confirmed the alignment before troubleshooting and diagnosing a bad tire.
Most tire shops where most people get their alignments would realign the car multiple times, blame the employee, then blame the car, then blame the alignment equipment, (then possibly give up), before looking for other causes for a pull. Too many places doing alignments are staffed by trained monkeys who only know how to turn the wrench on the tie rod until the numbers on the computer screen are green, not red - while knowing little about alignment or what impact they are actually having on the car.
What IS. needed is a much better cargo area light. Poked around this area tonight and realized the only thing the light does is blind me. I shrouded the top edge with electrical tape temporarily and it's a good improvement.
What is needed is better lighting. Found some high output 10mm LEDs that will be great. Looks like the light is triggered by the latch on the hatch so if there's switched power there I might just add lighting here too as a sort of puddle lamp.
I find the cargo light to be pretty useless, too! I put a much brighter LED bulb in the stock location and now there are two functions:
1. Blocked by whatever cargo I'm carrying, therefore useless. ...in other words, just like stock only there's a BRIGHTER light being completely blocked!
2. Shining directly in my eyes, rendering me blind.
My plan is to put the stock bulb back in the stock location and run wires up behind the D-pillar panel from the stock light to one of these https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned) (intended for fake-Audi running light applications,) installed at the roof, just in front of the plastic trim around the hatch opening. This should provide plenty of light shining DOWN on the cargo area! Hopefully, I'll get to work on that this weekend. I'll post pics when I get around to it.
What's the name of the Thule bike rack? I'd like to see how it attaches to the receiver.
Used the 5's Curt hitch and Thule bike rack to transport 3 bikes.
could you let me know the name of the rack so I can look at Thule's manual online? I'm not looking for how it attaches to the hitch itself but rather how Thule design/engineers their rack at the bend that attaches to the hitch - long story. From you pic, it seems to have what I'm looking for, a slight upwards bend. If you could post the name of the rack that would be great or if you can post a pic of just the bottom part of the "bike rack", not how it attaches to the hitch. BTW "Hitching Post" is commonly known as "anti-rattle" setup - I hope it has integrated locks also.It's a Thule "Hitching Post" and it goes into the receiving end of the hitch and included a simple 17(?)mm bolt instead of a pin. For safety we like to use a series of cable locks. All together, putting all the gear on including the rack and bikes takes only 15 minutes or so.