First Mazda

ZackN

Member
:
Protege5
Well guys I bought my first mazda from my friend.
Sold a stock 1993 honda civic si 309,000miles) and bought a 2003 Mazda Protege5 (171,500mi) for the same price.

I think it was good deal on my part.
First things first. It needs some help. Lots of little things.
I already replaced the plugs, they were shot. Doing this didnt seem to change how it ran at all though.

1. It burns oil. Lots. At startup there is smoke for a little while. It goes away eventually, but there is a decent cloud each morning.
I think its the valves, but im not 100% on this. There was a little oil in either #2 or #3 spark plug when i changed them.

2. Suspension: Needs a new front passenger shock, its gets bad bumpsteer on the highway. Also, the roads I drive aren't exactly smooth, and the lowered suspension, and the low profile tires don't make that ride any easier, so im going to go back to stock wheels and suspension. (anyone want to trade?) Will need an alignment as it pulls to left.

3. Needs timing belt and water pump.

4. I need a manual or shop book if im going to be doing all this! (downloaded this one... http://web.archive.org/web/20061223062340/http://protege5.ugly.net/)
Needs oil change (but i add enough oil that it gets new oil pretty frequently.)
Could probably use new motor mounts as it has a fairly rough idle.

Finally some pictures! (attached them, how do i make them show up?)
 

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Well, I would much rather deal with your problems than rust.

If you plan to rebuild the engine, then change timing belt, otherwise just get another one.
 
Was told wrong spec to gap the plugs to. Ill have to pull them and regap. Also check and see if they are the proper plugs...
Oil filter was loose, tightened by hand. Leaking from there. Will do change soon and see if it helps.
Motormounts: only the top one is broken. Really glad those others still look good, they are in hard to get to places. Also found a black widow, a few inches from my face.

Is the P5 suspension interchangeable with the standard Protege suspension? Also are the wheels interchangeable?

Any one want to trade this lowered suspension (1 bad shock) for stock suspension?
Anyone want to trade these wheels and tires (2~bald, 2 good) for stock wheels and tires?
I will also post in the for sale section.

Click pictures for bigger image.











 
Is the P5 suspension interchangeable with the standard Protege suspension? Also are the wheels interchangeable?
Id like to start enjoying my P5, not dread driving it on the crappy local roads.


Also what can you guys tell me about burning oil and excessive water in the exhaust? Head gasket? Valves? Both? Something else?
When I start it up in the morning, I usually get white/blue smoke and some black water being spit out of the exhaust.
All input appreciated!
 
i would use ngk iridium ix plugs part number 5464 no need to gap plus iridium plugs provide a better spark than copper and last up to 100,000 miles. the morning start issue honestly sounds like a headgasket or bad piston rings
 
No need to get stock wheels - just get taller profile tires...

Black water out the tail pipe is normal (water vapor washing out soot - NP )

Either budget an engine rebuild or consider Restore[tm] oil additive which *can* help. Worth a shot...

Check PCV - choked with oil?

Budget all new motor mounts if you remove the engine.
 
Blue smoke after sitting over night is usually valve seals and will cause burning oil.

I did the opposite I went from a protege to a civic and honestly look back all the time. Just hate the worthless fsde. Although I do have a prelude with h22a and love it more than the protege
 
If you want a better ride quality lose the 18s. Protgs use a 5x114.3 so you can use Honda/acura wheels if you have some friends with them. You need a higher offset for 17s as in +40-50 would be ideal. 215-45-17 do pretty well but may rub in the rear depending on how much you're lowered

Pretty much everything is interchangeable between the protege 5 and the sedan. Even all the speed stuff including turbo kit will bolt right on
 
Pretty much everything is interchangeable between the protege 5 and the sedan. Even all the speed stuff including turbo kit will bolt right on

Thats what I wanted to hear! All the junkyards around me had no P5 parts, but im sure they will have some standard Protege parts.
So your saying that the front and rear suspension and the wheel size are the same correct? (nana)

Also, I was guessing it would be the valve seals, but wanted someone else with the same opinion to confirm my suspicions.
Have you guys ever pulled the head with the engine still in? I have an ok amount of experience with cars, but I have never done any engine work, only timing belt and water pump, thats the most I have dug in to the engine. Also have done valve adjustment on my truck (dodge diesel)
Basically what Im trying to say is, How difficult will it be to pull the head (im assuming that ill need to) replace the valve seals, head gasket and any other parts that are worn out, and to the timing belt and water pump while im in there? Not too bad right? :)
 
Forgot to say that the other day the check engine light came on because of the knock sensor. It was low on oil, so i stopped 2 blocks down the road and filled it up.
Also, the code P0421 for the cat warmup has been thrown twice. Im hoping its the plug gapping issue...
Passed smog before all this code busisness started happening though! :)
 
There is way less room to work on the protege than your civic. But one you get the timing belt off you really only have the rear motor mount and head bolts iirc. I can't remember if you need to pull the cams or not but I don't think you do. Do not use a cheap head gasket unless you like replacing them, get one from mazda or cometic. Also head bolts are torque to yield which means they have to be replaced after every use. If you like it and want to keep it get arp studs which are reusable

Watch out for runing it low on oil. When the oil light comes on its usually too late and you've already spun a rod bearing. But knock sensor should only come on when it senses detonation, could be from bad gas or the bad plug gap.

P0421 is either the downstream O2 sensor is bad or the precat is bad which is more likely. Search for the spark plug non fouler trick its a $10 bs fix vs $400 for a new precat
 
i would use ngk iridium ix plugs part number 5464 no need to gap plus iridium plugs provide a better spark than copper and last up to 100,000 miles. the morning start issue honestly sounds like a headgasket or bad piston rings

Iridium is better for longevity.

Copper is better for power/cleaner burn.
 
Iridium is better for longevity.

Copper is better for power/cleaner burn.

Iridium/ platinum is junk 90% of the time unless you pay $20+ per plug. Always use copper and just replace every 20-30k miles or every brake pad change. More consistent, better burn and just over all better. And in the long run isn't anymore expensive than buying the platinum/iridium
 
Will Mazda6 parts work in my car?
I found one that is being parted out in my area...
03 Mazda6 Mazda 6 Part Out ....
Front Springs and Struts
Rear Springs
Rear Shocks
all the parts i need still available, but only if they fit.

thanks for the help!
 
Thanks.
Oil consumption has gone up.. that or i didnt notice the low levels...
10 qts since i bought it about 3-4wks ago.
I guess i need a new motor or at least a rebuild.

Is it possible to re-ring it while still in the car?
 
I have not checked the PCV yet.
Ill check it tomorrow.
I guess ill budget out a rebuild and see how much its gunna cost me.
That or just get a JDM and drop it in. Anyone ever done that? Are they readily available?
 
Fsze has higher compression and will require 93. You also need to swap over some sensors and the crank pulley there's alot of info if you search.

Motor needs to be pulled for a rebuild. Drinking that much oil it's going to need a full rebuild, bored, machine work etc. if you do everything yourself except machine work it would cost 1,000-1,500 but you would have a brand new motor. Price depends on if you want to throw goodies in

You're looking at , main and rod bearings, pistons, piston rings, head gasket, head bolts, valve seals, valve cover, other misc gaskets, timing belt/ water pump. Etc for shortish list. Granted you don't need everything but the motor is opened up and disassembled may as well do it while your there or do it later
 
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