What have you done to your Miata today?

Managed to get a datalog with the CEL in place, sent that off for review. Saturday I went to storage and put the aluminum valve stems on the new Flatouts, also brought the center caps home. Yesterday I put my usual stickers in place:

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Barry used holographic chrome (he also sent me some normal chrome ones), I decided to use those to give the center of the wheels a little snap. Yes, I know I need to do some more cleaning of the caps. One of the caps has a ding in it, unfortunately they are NLA from Konig so I'll have to live with it.

Got our good camera charged up and was able to get some pictures of the rain rail and rubber trim I was talking about before. In the first picture you can see the rain rail in the background (the textured piece) and the trim at the top. In the second picture I'm pulling the rubber piece attached to the trim out so it can be seen, this is what you want over the top of the rain rail.

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Nice!! I have a bunch of those old school Mazda logos in sliver....I had them on my black rfp1's....I have bronze ones now on the wideopens
 
Nice!! I have a bunch of those old school Mazda logos in sliver....I had them on my black rfp1's....I have bronze ones now on the wideopens

I love how they look. Adds that nice little touch to any wheel.

The wife is gone today so I brought the new Flatouts home to do some cleaning. At some point tires were changed on them using an old-fashioned machine so each barrel had 8 pits with displaced metal. I filed those smooth, then cleaned off the residue from multiple wheel weight stickers along with what appeared to be quite a lot of tar. I'm not sure how that sort of thing gets inside the wheel. I will need to do some cleaning of the rim area on each but I don't have any good cleaner at the moment.
 
Been a little remiss in updating. Reverant sent me the info I needed for the new .ini files, it included how to set the base timing which I had never done. Didn't think it needed doing since there is no distributor, but I was wrong. Let this be a lesson to anyone running a MS. I tried doing that the other day but I need to figure out how to connect my timing light to a power source since the battery lives in the trunk. I tried connecting it to the bolt on the engine compartment fuse box but it wouldn't stay in place.

I had noticed the passenger mirror seemed to be moving a bit, when I washed her a couple of days ago I checked and it was loose. After I pulled the door card and moisture barrier plastic off, I discovered all that needed to be done was to move the mirror and tighten the two screws from the top. This is for an NB, I can't say if the other generations are the same or not.

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Yep, it's the same with the NAs at least. They're just welded nuts IIRC on the inside of the outer door skin. Pop the cover off the bottom of the manual mirrors and you can get to the bolts. They do tend to get loose over time.
 
Dash-cam install on the tow-pig. I'm really happy with how clean I was able to make it. The only visible wire is the bit from the camera to the cladding for the auto-dimming mirror wires, and even that is behind the mirror.



 
And none of the smoke even came out! ... yet ... (rlaugh)

Pulled one of the 1-minute video chunks off to see what the quality is. This is at 720p60, same setting I use on the camera in the race car.

 
Very nice. I love those add a fuse taps.

Finally got my base timing set. I used a set of jumper cables to connect the power leads of my timing light to the battery, I wrapped the positive connection with some left-over rubber shower pan liner I had sitting around so I didn't get a show. It wasn't too far off once I figured out which direction to make the adjustment (started at +4 offset, ended up at +5). Now that's done I can start tuning again.

I had been hearing a jingling noise with the clutch pedal out. It would go away if I barely touched the pedal. Given that I thought it might be the fork arm where the slave cylinder rod touches it. I pulled the rod back a little and put some assembly lube with moly on it. No more noise.

I dropped off the Lightspeeds and silver Flatouts at a local shop to have the tires transferred over. Picked those up this morning and put the center caps on, they will look very nice. I'll post a picture when I change over to those.
 
Kind of forgot to post this, but if you have a boot or tonneau cover do yourself a favor and lubricate the snaps on it periodically. Easy enough to do, I use some WD-40. Just turn the snap upside down, spray some lube in it and the blot out the excess. If it is free to move you will be less likely to rip out one of the fixed pieces and it makes it easier to put things in place.
 
Nice job on the timing. It's not as straight forward as with the NAs.

Very nice. I love those add a fuse taps.

I do too, now that I've used them. I wasn't sure if they were going to be one of those "where have you been all my life!?" things, or along the lines of using wire-nuts in a car (rlaugh)
They're super solid.
 
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Autocrossed her yesterday with the Cincy region SCCA at Wilmington. No videos unfortunately, it was a fun course. The lot they use there is big and the course was mostly twisty. Had some good transitions to challenge you. This is the first time I've driven in a year, and the first time with the Ohlins. The car was better than I.
 
Built a winch mount for the Miata's trailer.

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Winch is bolted (well...will be. It's clamped in the pic) to a mounting plate, that's welded to a 2" hitch tube.

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No interference w/ the fuel jug holder :D
I don't load the car with the fuel jug in place now, so this changes very little (other than burning up my clutch a lot less)

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Got it done, finally.

Converting the 10ga wire that the HF winch comes with to 4ga. The 2 wires on the left are what all of the wiring it came with is.

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Under-hood wiring, 150amp circuit breaker

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And all tidied up. I gave it a pull off of the 12,000 lb D-ring on the back of the trailer to make sure my welding is as extra medium as I thought it was. I still don't have a ton of trigger time on it, and this is really the first thing I've fabbed up that could potentially kill or maim if it comes unmoored. So...I wanted to make sure.

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I'm probably going to fab up a mount for, and use a bigger electrical box in the off season, as I'm not super happy with that. It's a bit 10# of s*** in a 5# bag right now. It'll hold for a few months.
 
Nice work Maff.

As mentioned, I didn't get any video of my autocross event. However I did buy some pictures from the photographer who does those events (http://www.jlofoto.net). Here are a couple of them:

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Thanks. If it works as it should (and, it should), I'll never have to drive the Miata up on the trailer under its own power. If the deck was maybe 6" wider it wouldn't ever be a problem, but it's just narrow enough to have VERY little clearance between the rails on both sides, which means a lot of correction, and a lot of clutch slip. Suboptimal. It's the 1 thing I don't link about the super lightweight clutch.
 
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