Ya that bolt on the bottom of that harness is tough. I got it off with a 10mm socket and ratchet as well, but you can't get many clicks on it, so it takes a little while. I ended up breaking that stud off too, and just filling the hole. That main engine harness has really been a PITA for me this year. It was in the way too many times for that motor mount install, and boy did it ever get in the way 5 million times during the turbo install, not to mention the actual wiring of it too.
HOW-TO: Rear Motor Mount InstallIn 2 hrs
- Thread starter Alejo_NIN
- Start date
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- '03.5 Blazin' MSP (sold) ................. '14 Soul 6 GT
Regarding the Plastic Wire Harness Mount, You can remove (destroy) the bottom PITA bolt any way you see fit. If its easier to grind off the bolt, then DO IT! The stud has to come off anyway! I did not bother plugging the tiny hole from the stud removal either. The bottom harness bolt was the WORST PART of the install. When you are putting it back together, you will re-use the top harness bolt. Then use a few wire ties or electrical tape to attempt to relocate the harness in the plastic harness mount.
Yes I have vibration when I'm not moving, but WHEN I AM MOVING, the mounts are fantastic!!! I only did the front and rear with the AWR ATX MM. Sides are stock.
367 (mp3yellow
Yes I have vibration when I'm not moving, but WHEN I AM MOVING, the mounts are fantastic!!! I only did the front and rear with the AWR ATX MM. Sides are stock.
367 (mp3yellow
Ok so I have had the stock mount out for a while and have the billet SU rear mount in. I have all three bolts on the base of the mount on and snug. I cannot get the center bolt in to save my life. I am have some serious problems getting the holes to line up. Tried jacking up the tranny a little from all different angles. Went up and do until I have come to the conclusion that maybe Something is wrong with the mount. Seems like something is not letting the mount go back far enough. Cause it is not lining up on the side by the motor. I can get the hole to line up top and bottom but not on that side.
My main idea is that I didnt get something I needed. Cuz I have tried adjusting it in everyway possible. does anybody know if I was supposed to get different bolt or what? I waited forever for theese and tey said it was because of some bolts. I had NO bolts in my package. Am I missing something here?
Any Ideas??????????????????
My main idea is that I didnt get something I needed. Cuz I have tried adjusting it in everyway possible. does anybody know if I was supposed to get different bolt or what? I waited forever for theese and tey said it was because of some bolts. I had NO bolts in my package. Am I missing something here?
Any Ideas??????????????????
Best thing to do is leave those 3 bolts loose so you can wiggle the mount a bit to get the center bolt in. That should give the mont enough moving room to get it to line up. You shouldn't need a new bolt with the new mount either, I don't think the AWR ones come with a new bolt.
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- '03.5 Blazin' MSP (sold) ................. '14 Soul 6 GT
Like he^^^ said, leave em' loose. Use a screwdriver or smaller bolt on opposite side to pre-align it while you push the original bolt thru. I had to LOWER the jack that was under the engine to get mine to go. Also, loosen, don't remove, the FRONT mount bolts. All bolts must be loose until all bolts are in place! Congrats on the bottom wire harness nut!!!
EDIT: I believe the 3 holes were slots for adjustment. And, No, you won't need any new or different bolts.
367 (mp3yellow
EDIT: I believe the 3 holes were slots for adjustment. And, No, you won't need any new or different bolts.
367 (mp3yellow
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- '03.5 Blazin' MSP (sold) ................. '14 Soul 6 GT
Did ya get ur' done?
Pmpkinhead said:
yes sir. I believe I did. I had to work all day yesterday. But ended up finishing her up in about 25 minutes this morning. I ended up loosening all 3 bolts and I found an allen key that I had that was about the same width maybe a bit smaller and stuck it through. Lowered the jack a bit until it made it all the way through. From there I let the car sit pretty much on its own weight and it pretty much lined itself up. Really should stop working on my car late at night. I diffenently think alot clearer in the morning after a good nights rest. Thanks for all the advice guys.
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- '03.5 Blazin' MSP (sold) ................. '14 Soul 6 GT
OK Mr. AxexB. The vibration fun starts NOW. You WILL have good days and BAD days.(pissed) Whenever it gets bad, just light em' up!!! You will remember you could not do that before.(first) The absence of most of the wheel hop is significant. You will still have it but you can be alot more aggressive and will find it easier to control.(ughdance) Enjoy it and tell us your opinion after a few hundred miles! Lookin forward to your feedback.(poke)
367 (mp3yellow
367 (mp3yellow
I have a slightly off topic question about the rear motor mount. I am looking to install the RR Racing insterts but I would like to try a different proceedure then for installing a new mount.
Would it be possible to either:
1. Remove the center bolt and rock the engine down enough to slip the insterts in? Would it help to remove the center bolt from the front mount?
2. Loosen or remove the three bolts that attach the engine mounting point to the block in order to access the rear mount. The three bolts (pictured) are easily accessable from under the vehicle.
I believe that one or both of these proceedures can be used to install the inserts. And since you don't have to remove the existing mount you avoid the wire harness, intake, TB, battery, etc.
Thoughts?
Would it be possible to either:
1. Remove the center bolt and rock the engine down enough to slip the insterts in? Would it help to remove the center bolt from the front mount?
2. Loosen or remove the three bolts that attach the engine mounting point to the block in order to access the rear mount. The three bolts (pictured) are easily accessable from under the vehicle.
I believe that one or both of these proceedures can be used to install the inserts. And since you don't have to remove the existing mount you avoid the wire harness, intake, TB, battery, etc.
Thoughts?
Alejo_NIN said:
Tanks for the response. I was hoping for a better understanding of the process base on the experience of you and others. Maybe you could provide some more specific reasoning for you answer. I ask becuase the three bolts that hold the bracket tot he block are very accessable from under the car. Once removed the engine mount is accessable from both sides which will allow me to install the inserts.
If you think I should remove the lower subframe then let me know that, too.
Thanks again for your input.
the reason why i say is not possible is because in order to do what you want to do you will have to rotate the engine.
now, what you are trying to do is what i was avoiding...a 6hr job.
that was originally what people inteded and did when installing this particular motor mount. it took hours and hours to do, very frustrating, hence the reason i looked for an easier way of doing the install.
save yourself the headache and do it my way...and if you approach the other way and it is better, please let us know.
also, another reason why you would want to do it my way and completly remove the rear motor mount is because it gets shot very easy, and probably it is fucke dup already so it'll give you the chance to replace. That's what i would do, coz after all the trouble to rmeove it, is not worth putting it back if it is broken
now, what you are trying to do is what i was avoiding...a 6hr job.
that was originally what people inteded and did when installing this particular motor mount. it took hours and hours to do, very frustrating, hence the reason i looked for an easier way of doing the install.
save yourself the headache and do it my way...and if you approach the other way and it is better, please let us know.
also, another reason why you would want to do it my way and completly remove the rear motor mount is because it gets shot very easy, and probably it is fucke dup already so it'll give you the chance to replace. That's what i would do, coz after all the trouble to rmeove it, is not worth putting it back if it is broken
Alejo_NIN said:
I think the problem is that I was not very clear in my original post. I understand that if the engine does not rotate enough with just the center bolt removed I can try and remove the center bolt from the front mount. If the engine still does not rotate enought to provide access for the insterts I can take the engine block bracket off by removing the three bolts depicted in the image.
This proceedure is not effective when replacing the mount becasue what's attached to the firewall has to come out. For the inserts I can simply remove the more easily accessable part which is the engine block bracket.
For the record I have carefuly examined the condition of the mount and appears to be in good condition, at least visually. Besides, I have heard of inserts being installed in a trashed mount and still have the same effect becasue the urethane fills the gaps.
