HOW TO - Turbo Oil Lines

[Brian MP5T]

Here is a "HOW TO" thread that I have been meaning to do for two years.

There are several options when considering your Turbo Bering Oil feed and return lines.

This will be considered as a "BEST CASE SENARIO" . I realise that not everyone has the desire to spend as much on things or is interested in the Best solution at all cost so bear in mind that my solution might be overpriced in your opinion.

First, The Turbo is fed by oil from the engine and that oil is abused and turned into a milky white puss by the turbo berings spinning at as much as 125,000 RPM. This oil/puss is retuned to the oil pan and filtered and sent through again either to the engine or the turbo.

Q1: Where Do I get the oil from?
A1: On the back of the block, there are two sensors; the one closest to the Oil Filter is the one that triggers your Low Oil Pressure Light on the Dash, That's a good start. Get the fitting that fits the 1/8" Hole to an AN-4 Hose Fitting.

Q2: Why does the Oil Return Line Have to be so much larger than the Inlet?
A2: The Oil coming out of the housing is thrashed by the Bering and moves slowly. It needs to be able to be pulled by gravity and Air must be able to move up the line at the same time so there is no backpressure to prevent the oil from returning to the oil pan. Overlooking this step could result in inadequate oil supply and Bering failure due to starvation.

Q3: Why did you decide to Retun the oil to the Crank Support rather than the oil pan?
A3: As stated earlier, The oil return line must have air at the base, so for best results, the line should be as high away from the oil in the pan as possibe. It is possible to tap this adaptor to the oil pan but, make it as high as possible. I do not recomend this. The MSP returns the oil to the Crank Support Plate, Not the pan for a reason.

Q4: What Happens to the Oil Pressure Sending Unit after It's removed for the Oil Line?
A4: It gets placed into Fitting FBM2818 and hooked up to the wire again unless you have an Autometer Oil Pressure Gauge in Mind, then leave the stock sensor in the garbage and disconnect the line (The light will not come on if the pressure drops so keep an eye on the gauge)

Q5: Are You Obsessive Compulsive Brian?
A5: Yes, I'm the king of Overkill.

When you are building the Oil Supply Line. Make two Seperate Lines. A Short One With two straight Ends and a Long One with a 90 Deg and a Straight end. Join the two with the Tee Fitting that the oil sending unit fits into.


Here is what you need to do it like I did.

All Prices were from SUMMIT RACING...
Type the AER-******* Code in the Summit Part# Box to Find.
http://store.summitracing.com


Oil Line Parts...
(1) $15.00 US -- 1X AER-FCM1031 Fitting, Hose End, 90 Degree, -4 AN, -4 AN Adapter, Steel, Natural/Red, Each
(1) $25.00 US -- 1x AER-FCA0406 Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -4 AN, 6 Ft. Length, Each
(1) $16.95 US -- 1x AER-FBM2818 Fitting, Adapter, Female Pipe Flare Tee -4 AN, 1/8 in. NPT, -4 AN, Steel, Each
(3) $7.88 US -- 3x AER-FBM1011 Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -4 AN, -4 AN Adapter, Steel, Natural/Red, Each


Oil Return Parts...
(1) $19.00 US -- 1X AER-FCA1003 Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -10 AN, 3 Ft. Length, Each (You Can Cut Shorter)
(2) $9.25 US -- 2X AER-FCM1014 Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -10 AN, -10 AN Adapter, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each
(1) $15.95 US -- 1X AER-FCM2024 Fitting, Adapter, 45 Degree -10 AN Male to 1/2 in. NPT Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each
(1) $6.95 US -- 1X AER-FCM2009 Fitting, Adapter, Straight -10 AN Male to 1/2 in. NPT Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each



EDIT:



Update. Here is the finished Product...

[Focus]

Excellent write up!!

[black_rob00]

Nice. How hard is it to take off the crank support plate??

[Brian MP5T]

Nice. How hard is it to take off the crank support plate??

It requires a bit to get off. All the bolts are easy except the two 10mm bolts inside the tranny bell. That requires that the engine and tranny are seperated.

It was meant more for people who have the engine off for a rebuild, but it would stil be easy to do it on the car. Just take off the oil pan and be sure to clean the area after tapping the plate.

[tekkie]

good shit Brian this will come in handy

[WheelManATX]

Nice

[YP5 Toronto]

sweet goodness...great post..one of the best ever.

[Lil Freek]

It requires a bit to get off. All the bolts are easy except the two 10mm bolts inside the tranny bell. That requires that the engine and tranny are seperated.

It was meant more for people who have the engine off for a rebuild, but it would stil be easy to do it on the car. Just take off the oil pan and be sure to clean the area after tapping the plate.

so when you said you'll do it for my setup.. you neglected to mention that i'd have to join the army and stay on base, right?

[Brian MP5T]

so when you said you'll do it for my setup.. you neglected to mention that i'd have to join the army and stay on base, right?

Dude, It won't take long, I'll do it when it's still attached to your car. I'll just take the Oil Pan off and thread it after I make a large hole in the crank support. No Biggie!

[Lil Freek]

suuure.. this is all some crazy conspiracy to get Paul to join the army, isn't it?

Tasha put you up to this, eh?


That works, though... If we can do it while everything still together, I'd rather not drill into my oilpan and have to plug that once I move up to the plate

[Brian MP5T]

Bump for the SUNDAY CROWD

[accuser]

mmmm.... oil...

[Brian MP5T]

^^^ Royal Purple 10W30

[duMb KeoLa]

great how to!!!

any chance of some pics with it installed?? and how hard was it to set up your own sb lines? i noticed on your "oil return line" list you have "cut to size" on there, ive tried this once and it was a big mistake... do you have any pics or ideas on how to make it easier and how to actually do it right???

thanks for all the help!!

[Brian MP5T]

great how to!!!

any chance of some pics with it installed?? and how hard was it to set up your own sb lines? i noticed on your "oil return line" list you have "cut to size" on there, ive tried this once and it was a big mistake... do you have any pics or ideas on how to make it easier and how to actually do it right???

thanks for all the help!!

I'm going to make a complete MOCK UP on the engine stand within one month and will post pictures. The length thing is just because of where my turbo is located. The SB lines are a pain in the ass to build, just keep at it and make sure you get all the little pieces in before pushing the fitting on.