Thanks 1sty! So you think I should be able to get some decent bass out of the stock locations? I was thinking of running components in the doors -- using the stock tweeter location -- and a six inch sub in each door, but I don't think anyone makes 6's anymore. If not I'll look for some good 6 1/2 coax's for the rears.1sty said:I wouldn't worry about Frequency response stats much. They aren't an exact comparision and most no one can actualy hear to the extream highs most any speaker can play to. I personaly can not hear above around 17.5K hz. Using your own ears is the only way you should compare speakers.
Also, papers not a bad thing, its actualy makes a really good speaker metarial. Its all about execution, it can be cheap or very high quality. The only reason you should even bother with knowing the material a speaker cone is made out of is for longevity. The Alpine Type S should last you a good long time, so no worry there.
The alpines are a decent speaker although not high on my list. I'm not a big fan of them, in sound only mind you. You need to be the judge of that. Take a listen to them against some compeditors like JL, polk, eclipse, boston acoustic, Pioneer, rockford fosgate, focal.....ou get the idea
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Speaker Sizes, Harnesses and Kits of all Mazdas
- Thread starter 1sty
- Start date
SO you were going to install a6" mid and 6" sub in each door?mcstark said:Thanks 1sty! So you think I should be able to get some decent bass out of the stock locations? I was thinking of running components in the doors -- using the stock tweeter location -- and a six inch sub in each door, but I don't think anyone makes 6's anymore. If not I'll look for some good 6 1/2 coax's for the rears.
The only 6" sub I know of is offered by JL audio, the 6W0. Its not free air though so it needs an enclosure.
The easiest way to get good bass in a car with no sub is to get a very bass heavy component set like the JL XR or Focal's
Nope...it's an either/or scenario. If I couldn't find 6" subs, then I'd go with a 6 1/2 coax setup. I'll check out the JL's...thanks for the advice!1sty said:SO you were going to install a6" mid and 6" sub in each door?
So if you could find a 6" sub, what would you do with the components midrange driver?mcstark said:Nope...it's an either/or scenario. If I couldn't find 6" subs, then I'd go with a 6 1/2 coax setup. I'll check out the JL's...thanks for the advice!
A sub can not take its place.
I'd put the 6" subs in the rear doors, and put the components in the front doors.1sty said:So if you could find a 6" sub, what would you do with the components midrange driver?
A sub can not take its place.
Chiguy_2002
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege to 2006.5 xB to 2004 Forester XT
Correct me if I am wrong, but I was looking at JL Audio Co-Axes online, and it seems they have a 6" speaker with the odd mounting holes that may fit the rear doors of the Protege5...TR600-CXi. (thumb) Of course the JL Audio TR570-CXi should fit in the front doors no problem...
What is the front doors speaker cut out size?
IS the P5 cut out size in the front door 5 x 7 or 6 x 8?
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IS the P5 cut out size in the front door 5 x 7 or 6 x 8?
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(usa)VFR pilot said:do y'all think polk momo's 6.75 will ft in the ft doors of my '03 P5
<TABLE class=main align=center><TBODY><TR><TD>Driver Mounting Depth</TD><TD> </TD></TR><TR><TD class=specsMinor>Top Mount</TD><TD>2-13/16" (7.14cm)</TD></TR><TR><TD class=specsMinor>Bottom Mount</TD><TD>3-1/16" (7.78cm)</TD></TR><TR><TD><TABLE class=main align=center><TBODY><TR><TD>Cut-out</TD><TD> </TD></TR><TR><TD class=specsMinor>Driver Cut-out Diameter</TD><TD>5-13/16" (14.76cm)</TD></TR><TR><TD class=specsMinor>Tweeter Cut-out Diameter</TD><TD>2-3/16" (5.56cm)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD><TD>
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
http://www.polkaudio.com/car/specs.php?name=mm6
Both, its an interchangable size with aftermarket speakers. Technicly its a 5x7 according to Ford and Mazda..p5tom said:IS the P5 cut out size in the front door 5 x 7 or 6 x 8?
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(usa)
Correct, all the 3rd generations proteges have the same rear doors so they will all accept the same speakers. However the rear doors of the sedans (other then the MSP) have no speaker wires in the rear doors. They also do not have the capacity to handle 6 speakers. Someone interested in this must add an external amp and pull new wires from the amp to the rear doors. Also, using a factory deck, a LOC would be required aswell.ahb11m said:and the sedans will take the 6.5 inch speakers in the rear doors as well, for those who might like to have 6 speakers, or rear door splits etc
Double DIN
I have an '02 Protege5 with the stock double DIN CD player. I want to upgrade to an mp3 head unit with a hard drive add-on. My question is: Do I need a kit to install these two units together? Or do I need to make a custom braket? The units I want to install are the Alpine CDA-9830 and the HDA-5460.
I have an '02 Protege5 with the stock double DIN CD player. I want to upgrade to an mp3 head unit with a hard drive add-on. My question is: Do I need a kit to install these two units together? Or do I need to make a custom braket? The units I want to install are the Alpine CDA-9830 and the HDA-5460.
she'll be a perfect fit!!!sloop31 said:I have an '02 Protege5 with the stock double DIN CD player. I want to upgrade to an mp3 head unit with a hard drive add-on. My question is: Do I need a kit to install these two units together? Or do I need to make a custom braket? The units I want to install are the Alpine CDA-9830 and the HDA-5460.
just in getting this combo, check and see that they can talk to each other via the AiNet system, otherwise it might not be too seamless
there was an alpine HDD unit that was a plain box, and was accessed as if it were a CD stacker sort of thing
also while your having a look at these options, you may want to consider an iPod as these have a direct hook up into all AiNet head units
Are there different sizes for Canadian models of the P5? I was told by the dealership that they are 6x9 in the rear, which seems odd since they are door mounted. I have heard 5x7 for the rear doors, and here it is saying 6 or 6.5 for the rear doors. I have got my 5x7 on order for the front, and picked up the 6x9 for the rear, but am thinking that is wrong. Some clarification on the rear door sizes on the Canadian P5 would really help me. I am so confused now.
LiMPiNg said:Are there different sizes for Canadian models of the P5? I was told by the dealership that they are 6x9 in the rear, which seems odd since they are door mounted. I have heard 5x7 for the rear doors, and here it is saying 6 or 6.5 for the rear doors. I have got my 5x7 on order for the front, and picked up the 6x9 for the rear, but am thinking that is wrong. Some clarification on the rear door sizes on the Canadian P5 would really help me. I am so confused now.
Nope, 5.25" rear speakers for you too equipt from the factory, although 6.5" fit with relative ease.
The person you talked to either though you had a sedan or didn't know s***. Send the 6x9s back and get some 6's
B1ackB0x02
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege DX
1sty said:Correct, all the 3rd generations proteges have the same rear doors so they will all accept the same speakers. However the rear doors of the sedans (other then the MSP) have no speaker wires in the rear doors. They also do not have the capacity to handle 6 speakers. Someone interested in this must add an external amp and pull new wires from the amp to the rear doors. Also, using a factory deck, a LOC would be required aswell.
Alright, I'm new, so here's my first stupid question: WtF is an LOC?
Also, I'm currently running a single Polk 12" in a sealed box with an MTX RoadThunder 202 (200 watt) amp. This is all in my 2002 Protege DX with the stock cd HU. Is there anything wrong with me using an line level converter? (the litle box which taps from the speaker outputs converting them to RCA inputs?) Sorry for being an idiot
B1ackB0x02 said:Alright, I'm new, so here's my first stupid question: WtF is an LOC?
Also, I'm currently running a single Polk 12" in a sealed box with an MTX RoadThunder 202 (200 watt) amp. This is all in my 2002 Protege DX with the stock cd HU. Is there anything wrong with me using an line level converter? (the litle box which taps from the speaker outputs converting them to RCA inputs?) Sorry for being an idiot
LOC=
Line
Output
Converter
*L* Nope, you're fine, does it sound alright? if you're questioning it there may be some specifics we can help you with if you've got strange sounds or something goingon.
B1ackB0x02
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege DX
Oh snap! I was calling it a different name -_-Poseur said:LOC=
Line
Output
Converter
*L* Nope, you're fine, does it sound alright? if you're questioning it there may be some specifics we can help you with if you've got strange sounds or something goingon.
Anyway, nothing odd.... I like the sound, but the first 12" (this speaker's twin, actually) got blown out about two weeks after installation. I was wondering if this was from amplified distortion, possibly from that converter? Or maybe I was just a tad spin-happy on the gain during one of my "check this bass out!" exhibitions...
B1ackB0x02 said:Oh snap! I was calling it a different name -_-
Anyway, nothing odd.... I like the sound, but the first 12" (this speaker's twin, actually) got blown out about two weeks after installation. I was wondering if this was from amplified distortion, possibly from that converter? Or maybe I was just a tad spin-happy on the gain during one of my "check this bass out!" exhibitions...
Do you know what your subwoofers model number is by chance?
Its possible that you have a mismatch there.
The most likely answer is distortion. 99% of sub and amp death result from wanting more volume then there system can provide and thentrying to puch their setup to that level. This results in distortion and eventual equipment failure. This distortion is the result of the head unit volume being too high, the amp gain being too high, or the LOC's gain being too high. Either way, the cause and result are all really the same.
Get more power, and more subwoofers.
If you like polk then get their momo 500.1 amp and another 12" polk sub to match yours.
B1ackB0x02
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege DX
They're both the same, old Polk 12", rated at 175 watts RMS, 300 peak or something close (I haven't had a chance to get the exact peak yet). Old technology, I know... but I figure with the 200 watt amp that I have bridged, it should have enough power to not blow. Good or bad, or should I just cut my losses and buy all new stuff? (huh)
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