Speaker Sizes, Harnesses and Kits of all Mazdas

1sty

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2006 Toyota Tundra DC
SPEAKER SIZE:

NOTE! 5x7"s and 6x8"s speakers are totaly interchangable as far as aftermarket speakers are concerned. So if you have a car with 5x7" speakers you can replace them with 6x8" speakers.

OVAL vs. ROUND: Many Mazdas come with oval (5x7",6x8",6x9") shaped speakers. If you want high-end components you may find they only come in 5.25" and 6.5". The good news is that you can install these with a little extra work. See this how-to for details on installing 6.5" speakers.
You can also purchase abs plastic adapters but these will not account for mounting depth issues with large drivers.

2003 Mazda Speed Protege
Front 5x7" @ 2.75"
* Can use 6x8"s, see note above.
* Can also use 5.25"s or 6.5"s with additional work, see note above.
Front seperate tweeters by mirrors.
Rear 6" @ 4.25", 6" speakers fit the best and 6 1/2" can fit by cutting the rain guard.

2001-2003 Protege Sedan
Front 5x7" @ 2.75"
* Can use 6x8"s, see note above.
* Can also use 5.25"s or 6.5"s with additional work, see note above.
Rear 6x9" @ Over 8"

2002-2003 Protege5
Front 5x7" @ 2.75"
* Can use 6x8"s, see note above.
* Can also use 5.25"s or 6.5"s with additional work, see note above.
Front seperate tweeters by mirrors. (2002.5-UP P5)
Rear 6" @ 4.25", 6" speakers fit the best and 6 1/2" can fit by cutting the rain guard, Thanks Sir Nuke.

1998-2000 Protege Sedan
Front 5x7" @ 2.75"
* Can use 6x8"s, see note above.
* Can also use 5.25"s or 6.5"s with additional work, see note above.
Rear 6x9" @ Over 8"

1995-1998 Protege Sedan
Front 6.5" @ 2" *
Rear 6x9" @ Over 8"
Dash Kits:

1990-1994 Protege/323
Front 5.25" @ 1.75" *
Rear 5.25" @ Over 8"

2003-UP Mazda 6:
Standard
-Front 5x7"
* Can use 6x8"s, see note above.
* Can also use 5.25"s or 6.5"s with additional work, see note above.
-Rear 5x7"
* Can use 6x8"s, see note above.
* Can also use 5.25"s or 6.5"s with additional work, see note above.
-90 amp alternator
Bose
-Tweeters - 1" @ 2ohms
-Midrange - 6.5" @ 2ohms, can also use 6x8" or 5.25"
-Rears - 5.25" @ 2ohms, can also use 6x8" or 6.5"
-Sub - 9"
-120 amp alternator
-Door speaker amp: under the passanger seat
-Sub amp: Built into the sub basket

2004-UP Mazda 3:
Front 5x7"
* Can use 6x8"s, see note above.
* Can also use 5.25"s or 6.5"s with additional work, see note above.
Rear 5x7"
* Can use 6x8"s, see note above.
* Can also use 5.25"s or 6.5"s with additional work, see note above.
HOW-TO: Mazda3 Front Speaker Install

2006-UP Mazda 5:
Front 5x7"
* Can use 6x8"s, see note above.
* Can also use 5.25"s or 6.5"s with additional work, see note above.
Rear 5x7"
* Can use 6x8"s, see note above.
* Can also use 5.25"s or 6.5"s with additional work, see note above.

Front door speaker depths are the distance to the windows not the deepest speaker usable!


WIRE HARNESS:

2004-UP Mazda 3
METRA: 70-7903
Peripheral: PESWIX universal steering wheel control adapter
* I haven't tested this but they claim it supports all Mazdas
* Please note, it requires an aftermarket HU with a IR remote control.
* Check your HU manufacturer's website for integrated solutions before
buying this unit.

2001-2003 Protege Sedan
Metra: 70-7903, 71-7903 into factory radio -- these are female connectors
Scosche: MA03, MA03R into factory radio NO DIMMER OR ILLUMINATION These are male (reverse) connectors
Best Kits: None listed

2002-2003 Protege5
Metra: 70-7903, 71-7903 into factory radio
Scosche: MA03, MA03R into factory radio NO DIMMER OR ILLUMINATION
Best Kits: None listed

1995-2000 Protege Sedan
Metra: 70-7901
Scosche: MA02, MA02R into factory radio
Best Kits: BHA-7901

1990-1994 Protege/323
Metra: 70-7901
Scosche: MA02, MA02R into factory radio
Best Kits: BHA-7901

2006-up Mazda5
Metra: 70-7903
Details for the wiring harness


DASH KITS:

2004-UP Mazda 3
Scosche: MA1536
METRA: 99-7504

2003-UP Mazda 6
METRA: 99-7503
The navigation tray or glove box can be used to house and aftermarket unit.


2001-2003 Protege Sedan
Metra: 88-00-9000 or 98-7599 (pockets)
Metra: 99-7505 (full kit, see photos)
Scosche: MA1537
Best Kits: BKMA1573B
Stock MP3 and MSP Pocket: BJ1H-66-9M0
Stock MP3 and MSP Support Bar: TA06-66-9B1

2002-2003 Protege5
Metra: 99-7505 (full kit, see photos)
Metra: 88-00-9000 or 98-7599
Scosche: MA1537
Best Kits BKMA1573B
Stock MP3 and MSP Pocket: BJ1H-66-9M0
Stock MP3 and MSP Support Bar: TA06-66-9B1

1995-2000 Protege
Should be din sized an not need a kit at all. Pockets are listed below!
Metra: 99-5510, 99-5512, or 99-5700
Scosche: FM2157
Best Kits: None

1990-1994 Protege/323
Metra: 98-7599 or 99-7500
Scosche: MA1530
Best Kits: MZ7 (metal)

2006-up Mazda5
Metra 99-7509
Scosche MA1538B (to be released)

INSTALLATION

RADIO REMOVAL TOOLS:

The radio removal tools are Ford radio remove keys. They are simply a set of U shaped metal. For a 2001 and up protege you will need 2 sets of tool, thats 4 U's :D
They are availble for a few dollars at Autozone, Walmart, ect.

STOCK PROTEGE MP3 REMOVAL TOOLS:
These can be bought from :
Kenwood parts dealers
These are the actual removal tools
Z919 removal tool
Also a #4-40 x 1" Machine screws can be used aswell, Thank LinuxRacr for this one kids!

STOCK MAZDASPEED PROTEGE REMOVAL TOOL:
Seems Mazda was finaly kind to someone!
The MSP simply uses standard Kenwood radio removal tools.
Many stereo shop might lend you a par or you can call a Kenwood parts dealer, Kenwood parts dealers, and order some.

STOCK P5 HEAD UNIT PIN OUT:

pin%20out%20for%20p5.bmp


Pic from:

http://www.astolfo.com/p5/p5install.asp?track=5&mode=1

Pin #: Wire Color - Use

Pin 1: Green / Orange - Rear Right Speaker (-)
Pin 2: Green - Rear Right Speaker (+)
Pin 3: Brown - Rear Left Speaker (-)
Pin 4: Brown / White - Rear Left Speaker (+)
Pin 5: White - Front Right (-)
Pin 6: Red - Front Right (+)
Pin 7: Black / White - Front left (-)
Pin 8: Black / Brown - Front Left (+)
Pin 9: Black - Ground (see note below)
Pin 10: Pink / Black - Switched power, coonect to red wire in aftermarket harness.
Pin 11: White / Blue - Dimmer, not typicaly used for an aftermarket radio
Pin 12: Green / Black - Illumination, thanks twizyours
Pin 13: Blue / Red - Contasnt Power aka Battery aka Memory, connect to yellow wire in aftermarket harness.

NOTE: For aftermarket units, bolt ground wire directly to frame of car instead of using chassis ground wire on harness. Using the harness ground almost always introduces alternator whine.

STOCK MAZDA 3 HEAD UNIT COLOR CHART
White/Black = left front +
Gray/Black = left front -
White/Red = right front +
Gray/Red = right front -
White/Purple = left rear +
Gray/White = left rear -
White = rear right +
Gray = rear right -
Orange/Black = 12v constant
Orange/Black with silver dots = 12v illumination
Yellow with silver dots = 12v switched
Black/Green = Chassis ground (see note below)

NOTE: For aftermarket units, bolt ground wire directly to frame of car instead of using chassis ground wire on harness. Using the harness ground almost always introduces alternator whine.

PARTS

Kenwood parts dealers


BUYING ONLINE

CRUTCHFIELD: If you order a head unit or pair of speakers from crutchfield they will send you all the necessary installation harnesses, kits, and instruction sheets free of charge. They have excellent customer service and will answer any and all questions regarding the installation of your new gear. Shipping costs are reasonable and they are an authorized internet retailer for all the products they sell. That means you will get the full manufacturer's warranty should something go wrong.

SOUNDDOMAIN: Sounddomain also has excellent customer service but not quite as good as Crutchfield. They are also an authorized internet dealer for everything they sell and often have equipment at discounted prices over Crutchfield. You can also find some sweet deals on discontinued products and factory refurbished equipment. Shipping costs are reasonable but they won't hand out freebies like crutchfield. You will have to pay for the installation kit and wiring harness and that can be the deciding factor when price-matching with Crutchfield.

MOBILESQ: MobileSQ.com is authorized to sell high-end equipment from Brax, DLS, Helix, and Seas only if there is not an authorized dealer in your area. These brands are not widely known so the chances of there being a dealer within 50mi of your home is pretty slim. Going on the feedback from others and not personal experience, they also have excellent customer service and competitive pricing.

eBAY: eBay sellers are NOT authorized vendors. You do not get a manufacturer's warranty so any and all warranty service is at the discretion of the seller and his/her technicians. Since they are not authorized to sell online, the equipment they put up for auction has the potential to be used, refurbished, or B-stock (items that did not pass the manufacturer's test specifications). Many items sold as new have manufacturer serial numbers scratched off to prevent the item from being traced back to the original dealer. Such items can never be serviced by the manufacturer. So with that information in hand, please bid carefully on eBay and be cautious when bidding on NIB equipment from turbo sellers.
 
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1st, the scosche harness is listed in their books for the 2001 up only as the MA03......their REVERSE harness to plug into the back of the stock head unit is the MA03R.

the FRONT STOCK speakers are in fact 5 X 7's....but the 6 X 8's will fit right in. I personally used 5 X 7's for one reason or another.

the REAR STOCK speaker size in the 2002 P5 is in fact 6" the ONLY modification that will be needed to put the 6 1/2 in the rear door is to the rain guard that is on the stock speaker IF you want to reuse them. also the stock speaker has a STRANGE three screw pattern, they are NOT 120 degrees apart as you would think...and there may not be a speaker out there that has the exact pattern in them. the speakers I replaced my rear door speakers with were 6 1/2's and even thought they had about 50 different screw locations in the ring of the speaker frame...NONE of them matched the door....so I just drilled two new holes in the speaker frame....NOT the door.

and although the ACTUAL back spacing for the speakers to the window in the front is 2.75 inches....at that depth the speaker IS TOUCHING the window.

and best kits lists their harness as 70-7902 for the P-5.

there is also American International...but i can't remember their number off of the top of my head.
 
I wil majke the changes to reflect your comments. All spacing and speaker size was derived from crutchfiled. Metra numbers were from Metrausa.com and bestkits from beskits.com.

I'm not suprised the Best kits numbers in the book for 01' s are wrong as metras was only a week or to ago also and bestkits seems to just resell metra. 7903 is definitly right for metra. I verified it at Tweeter.

I wil check scosche's website to verify there numbers.

I believe 5 1/4s will fit the rear door if you remove the plastic mounting aperatise, but I'm not sure. I haven't installed in one yet.
 
1st MP3 in NH said:
I wil majke the changes to reflect your comments. All spacing and speaker size was derived from crutchfiled. Metra numbers were from Metrausa.com and bestkits from beskits.com.

I'm not suprised the Best kits numbers in the book for 01' s are wrong as metras was only a week or to ago also and bestkits seems to just resell metra. 7903 is definitly right for metra. I verified it at Tweeter.

I wil check scosche's website to verify there numbers.

I believe 5 1/4s will fit the rear door if you remove the plastic mounting aperatise, but I'm not sure. I haven't installed in one yet.

the metra and scosche numbers I got directly from each of the specific manufactures....NOT a book...OR their websites...but after MANY calls on the phone to both places.
 
Metra i have viausly verified and the website lists as 7903, since Best kits is a knock off there number should also be 7903. The Scosche numbers were per sounddomain and scosches website. Sounddomain added a B at the end thats all. I don't think anyones into radio adapter is ready to ship yet.

Take another look and make sure it all looks koshier. The Best kits number which is our only discrepency is right per there web site. And that websites drwring is exactly what it need to be for a 2001 and up protege. Metra was originaly listing the 70-7901 for 2001 mazdas then they realized they changed them. We'll that actualy happened when i called them over a year ago and told them about my MP3. They only corrected it a short while ago.
 
Good to have you here, MP3. Smart mo'fo.

U2, you old codger!

;)
 
Re: Harness, Kits and speaker size of all Proteges!

1st MP3 in NH said:

STOCK P5 HEAD UNIT PIN OUT:

pin%20out%20for%20p5.bmp


Pin #: Wire Color - Use

Pin 1: Green / Orange - Rear Right Speaker (-)
Pin 2: Green - Rear Right Speaker (+)
Pin 3: Brown - Rear Left Speaker (-)
Pin 4: Brown / White - Rear Left Speaker (+)
Pin 5: White - Front Right (-)
Pin 6: Red - Front Right (+)
Pin 7: Black / White - Front left (-)
Pin 8: Black / Brown - Front Left (+)
Pin 9: Black - Ground
Pin 10: Pink / Black - Switched power, coonect to red wire in aftermarket harness.
Pin 11: White / Blue - Dimmer, not typicaly used for an aftermarket radio
Pin 12: Green / Black - n/a
Pin 13: Blue / Red - Contasnt Power aka Battery aka Memory, connect to yellow wire in aftermarket harness.

Question: Pin 10 above, could that be used to turn an aftermarket amp on / off? (if i get an aftermarket amp, would that lead be tapped for the amp's power switch?)
 
Your right one my Brotha form anotha motha!

Typicaly with a stock headunit we splice the amps remote line into the switched aka accessory power at the radio. If you turn the radio off but the car is on then the amp stays on. But its better then a switch that if you forget to turn it off you end up draining the battery.
 
1st MP3 in NH said:
what do you need to know about them?

any details available would be helpful...for example:

power rating? size? can/should i buy replacement tweeters? or when i install an aftermarket HU, can they handle it? how are they connected to the stock HU...i don't see a pin for them, so when using a 4-channel HU are they just drawing power from the front speakers' signal?

it seems odd that there is no mention of these tweeters anywhere. i was beginning to think i had a "special" Pro! ;)
 
The stock tweeters I am assuming use a higher impedance then 4 ohms so they don't cook the factory head unit. I haven't gotten the chance to meter one however. Since most tweeters in the aftermarket are 4 ohms when run in parallel with the mids the low impedance may cook the radio. its always best and safest to replace the mid and tweeter at the same time with a component set.
 
Hey Guys, can anyone confirm where if there is a pin in the stock wiring harness for the Antenna control wire? I recently got a new hu and connected the blue antenna control wire on the hu's harness to the blue wire on the metra harness. Since the p5 does not have a power antenna, is this dangerous? Will it cause any problems? Do you know where the connection would terminate at? To the fusebox? Thanks!
 
thanks for the suggestions guys.

what do you think?

Amp: Alpine MRP-F320 40WX4, 120WX1, $250 from Crutchfield

Front Components: Kenwood KFC-P683C, 6"X8" + 3/4". $160 from Crutchfield

Rear Deck: Kenwood KFC-6905S, 6X9 $80 from Tweeter.

Sub: here's the question. the 10s seem to need too deep a box...One 8" might work better. and be cheaper than 2 6s...

JL Audio 8W3, 125W RMS, $150 from Tweeter.

does anyone know anything about the 8W04? it's not listed on JL's site. it's a lot cheaper ($80), but is rated at 100W. so the 125W channel should still be ok?

the box that JL describes is 16X9X6.8...but 16X11X5.6 gives me the same volume. from what i've read, box geometry doesn't matter as long as you end up w/ the same volume. correct?

i would probably end up having to do this a piece at a time, and then maybe just install everything at once when it gets warm out again...looks like i can do it for under $750. hopefully. ;)

thanks for your help...
 
I like the amp, I don't like the speakers but as I have said thats on a per person basis as long as you like them for you then so do I. They should be a nice match with the amp though. You can get all this stuff from tweeter though. They should be able to order all of it. I don't remember a 10W3 being much deeper then an 8W3. You can have one of my 8W3s for $75 if you like. They are a year old and I only used them for 4 months. They are dual 2 ohm subs so they can give you either a 4 or 1 ohm load.

Box volume and sealing is all that is really important. After that its typicaly said to have atleast 1" behind the magnet in the box before the rear wall. An 8w0 will do fine with the amp.

dmitrik4 said:
thanks for the suggestions guys.

what do you think?

Amp: Alpine MRP-F320 40WX4, 120WX1, $250 from Crutchfield

Front Components: Kenwood KFC-P683C, 6"X8" + 3/4". $160 from Crutchfield

Rear Deck: Kenwood KFC-6905S, 6X9 $80 from Tweeter.

Sub: here's the question. the 10s seem to need too deep a box...One 8" might work better. and be cheaper than 2 6s...

JL Audio 8W3, 125W RMS, $150 from Tweeter.

does anyone know anything about the 8W04? it's not listed on JL's site. it's a lot cheaper ($80), but is rated at 100W. so the 125W channel should still be ok?

the box that JL describes is 16X9X6.8...but 16X11X5.6 gives me the same volume. from what i've read, box geometry doesn't matter as long as you end up w/ the same volume. correct?

i would probably end up having to do this a piece at a time, and then maybe just install everything at once when it gets warm out again...looks like i can do it for under $750. hopefully. ;)

thanks for your help...
 
1st MP3 in NH said:
Your right one my Brotha form anotha motha!

Typicaly with a stock headunit we splice the amps remote line into the switched aka accessory power at the radio. If you turn the radio off but the car is on then the amp stays on. But its better then a switch that if you forget to turn it off you end up draining the battery.

so if i used the stock HU with a harness and a reverse harness, i would just shave off some of the insulation on this wire and attach the remote wire to it?
 
You need to connect the reds together to get the power from the car to the radio but yes you just grab the red wire off of the harness and attach remote turn on for the amp to it.
 
yay for cars said:


so if i used the stock HU with a harness and a reverse harness, i would just shave off some of the insulation on this wire and attach the remote wire to it?

YES>.....this is what you do...

Just make sure you have the right PIN...regardless of the color wire it is....its PIN #10....the color of the wire in the CARS HARNESS is PINK/BLACK.

check out the pin out at the first part of the thread...this will show you the exact one..and its position in the plug/harness.
 
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i can testify on the dash kit for the 2002 mp5.
the scosche MA1537 is the best by far. the others you have to alter things and they don't fit as well. i got mine through sounddomain.com and that B they have at the end of theirs is just due to how it's shipped.

also to the guy running amps and subs and all that jazz to his factory head unit you're taking a risk. very hard not to fry that thing as it's just not made for much high end aftermarket audio. plus you don't have nearly the sound control options you'd have with an aftermarket head unit. i recommend a pair of sony head units if you're wanting somethign with a display similar to the factory unit or something that matches the backlit of your instrument panel as i was. the sony CDX-CA810X gives you the option to change the color on your display. the red display is very similar to the factory look but it is bright. the sony MEX5DI is also great. it has a full color lcd display so you don't have to worry about it looking tacky because you have full color. the problem with the MEX5DI though is no pre-amp, meaning you need to provide a 4 channel amp for your speakers. you'll also need to replace your factory speakers as an amp will probably blow your factory speakers. it's a lot of money for the MEX5DI but it's an awesome head unit and gives you the most options out of almost any head unit i've seen. the unit itself is a grand normally but due to how much you have to put into it the cost is coming down on it. i talked the guy at best buy down to 450. i still had to buy all the other stuff though and you're gonna end up spening over a grand and still have no bass. you'll have very little difference in sound quality so as of right now you'll have spent a grand for a pretty picture. i wouldn't recommend this unless you're putting in a serious system. if you are though it's the perfect head unit because it can handle anything you throw at it and you can perfect the way it sounds.
 
If installed properly the Stock mazda head unit is no less reliable then any other and in fact it will easily best damn near all aftermarket units for SQ. Using the stock unit to drive amp is not in any way stressed from amps as it will feed a LOC.

But you are correct in that it lacks features such as seperate sub volume and smal EQ adjustments many peopl like. However with a good EQ/Crossover like the audio control EQS which can be had for less then a new head unit it will rule ass over any headunit under $800. the Stock unit is a Nakamichi by the way. By far Sony's superior.
 
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