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Thread: How To: DIY filled motor mounts

  1. #1
    Boom is inevitable Yay-Boost's Avatar
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    How To: DIY filled motor mounts

    The photos of the mount are from my Mazdaspeed Protege but I'm sure this will work for any mount that has the same type of construction. The stock mounts are made from very soft rubber and have large air holes to help isolate the engine vibrations from the passengers in the car. Filling in these air holes will reduce the amount the engine will rock but may increase vibrations in the car. I used epoxy on a past car and this really made a difference in the way the car drove. Everything inside the car vibrated but it was a Dodge Neon so that isn't really all that uncommon . I used silicone this time and it seems to be a nice compromise. Plus if you don't like it you can always take it out and try epoxy. I think once it is filled with epoxy it's there to stay.

    Materials that can used to fill with listed from softest to hardest
    Silicone (dries to a soft rubber)
    pros: easy to find, thick so it won't ooze all over, pliable so it stays in place,cheap
    cons:takes longer to dry

    Liquid urethane (dries to various stiffness of rubber) (thanks OKI BOY)
    pros:availiable in different stiffness, dries fast
    cons:may breakdown, might be to runny for paper plate? (CustomMSP said he used 3 layers of tape to close off one side. Going right over the center hole. Thanks for the input!)

    can't find a picture

    Window weld (dries to a hard rubber) (thanks DSM2MSP)
    pros:fast drying, stiff, holds up to car enviroment
    cons:might be to runny for paper plate? (other ideas?)


    Epoxy cement (dries like a piece of hard plastic)
    pros:dries very fast, thick consistancy is easy to use)
    cons:has no give at all (could be a plus or minus depends on what you want)


    Materials needed:
    filling material
    Paper plate
    drying time


    1.) Remove the motor mount.

    2.) Cut tab that sticks out below the top of the metal to allow mount to sit flush on paper plate.


    3.) Cut hole in paper plate to stick metal in center of mount thru the plate.


    4.) Place mount on plate with metal sticking thru plate. The point of this is to keep the silicone from going all over the place.
    view from bottom

    view from top


    5.)Fill mount with silicone. (or epoxy or ????)


    6.)Let it dry. It was like 80 deg. out the day I did mine and I let it dry about 2 hours before I put it back in the car. I didn't drive the car until the next day.

    I havn't noticed any increase in vibration compared to stock and it is a lot easier to drive now with the silicone.
    Last edited by Yay-Boost; 07-05-2004 at 02:56 PM.

  2. #2
    mmmmmmmmmmmm Power Demonic-Speed's Avatar
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    Nice DIY, wrong forum though...It will be moved soon

  3. #3
    Life B a zig zagging road DSM2MSP's Avatar
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    Nice DIY, another common thing to use is window weld, a little stiffer than the epoxy and silicone. I did it on my vr4..made a nice difference.
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  4. #4
    Boom is inevitable Yay-Boost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demonic-Speed
    Nice DIY, wrong forum though...It will be moved soon
    I know just hoping more people would see it here. Any guess on how long till its moved.

  5. #5
    Boom is inevitable Yay-Boost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSM2MSP
    Nice DIY, another common thing to use is window weld, a little stiffer than the epoxy and silicone. I did it on my vr4..made a nice difference.
    Cool I'll add that to the DIY. Epoxy once dried was like a piece of glass. What is window weld like? Did you have a Gallant or a 3000gt VR4?

  6. #6
    buy my stuff speedhawaii's Avatar
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    interesting


  7. #7
    Life B a zig zagging road DSM2MSP's Avatar
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    Galant and the window weld is good solid stuff
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  8. #8
    Designated Drinker oki_boy's Avatar
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    most people that did the DIY motor mount stiffening on the spec v's used either 3M window weld or liquid urethene.

    silicone ended up being too soft and not killing enough of the wheelhop.
    the window weld was supposed to be a big messy PITA to work with though...

    urethene sounded like the best option, as it was availible in different grades of final stiffness and ease of use.
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  9. #9
    a Love/Hate relationship CustomMSP's Avatar
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    my MM filled with liquid urethane has separated at the center ring and is back to being soft like the stock because of the empty space around the ring. What you have to do is refill with urethane again at the cracked places.

  10. #10
    Boom is inevitable Yay-Boost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CustomMSP
    my MM filled with liquid urethane has separated at the center ring and is back to being soft like the stock because of the empty space around the ring. What you have to do is refill with urethane again at the cracked places.
    What did you use to keep the liquid urethane from leaking out when you poured it in?

  11. #11
    a Love/Hate relationship CustomMSP's Avatar
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    tape, just tape everything up on one side of the mount including the center ring. Do Not make any cut outs and go over the tape like 3 times.
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  12. #12
    Badass SuperSpud's Avatar
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    nice.. it is probably still to soft though. b/c the stock rubber is pretty soft to begin with, so even if it were SOLID rubber with no holes, it would be soft. the aftermarket AWR ones are pretty stiff..
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  13. #13
    UCLA p5
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    i did this with silicon to a mazdaspeed #3 motormount as well. silicon is still pretty soft, but it seems like it helped reduce the movement a bit.

  14. #14
    . mspeedpro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uclap5
    i did this with silicon to a mazdaspeed #3 motormount as well. silicon is still pretty soft, but it seems like it helped reduce the movement a bit.
    how difficult is the removal of the #3 mm?


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    Banned Brian MP5T's Avatar
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    Nice DIY but if I bothered to remove the mount, I would just AWR it man!

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