(Can a mod move this to the how-to forums, or better yet, give me rights?, thanks)
Hey folks, time for another how-to:
<HR>
<HR>This modification allows you to open your moonroof with a "one touch" press of the open button.
I recommend that you first apply my always-on modification located here: (Click Here)
<HR>The tools needed are:
<HR>
This modification involves simply adding a timed relay to the existing OPEN button on the moonroof control assembly.
The relay is closed when you press the open switch.
The relay self-latch's and stays on, as long at the Capacitor is charging.
Once the capacitor reaches full charge, there is not enough current to keep the relay closed, and therefore the relay turns off. The 1200ohm resistor determines how long the capacitor takes to charge. It also limits the amount of drain on the car battery. This circuit consumes 10mA.
<HR>
First the relay:
All you need is a simple cheap 12volt Single Pole, Single Throw relay.
<HR>
The other two electronic parts needed is a 2200uF Capacitor, and a 1200Ohm resistor.
These are the values I used, different values will give you different timed openings.
The capacitor needs to be rated at least 24volts.
<HR>
The soldering iron I used is a RadioShack Butane soldering iron.
If you use an electric iron MAKE SURE AND DISCONNECT THE CAR BATTERY
<HR>
First locate the control box. (This should be easy)
<HR>
Get your fingers under one side of the controls an pull down.
If you need to use a tool, make sure it won't damage the plastic, or the fabric.
<HR>
The control box should pop out with some wires attached.
<HR>
Disconnect the control and power wires.
<HR>
Once removed, view the wires on the back.
It should be noted, the Ground wire (highlighted above) should be to your RIGHT.
<HR>
The terminals are labeled with numbers. We are interested in terminal 2 (Open switch) and terminal 5 (Ground)
Sorry for the messy look, as when I first did this mod I accidently hooked up to the close switch.
<HR>
First we need to prep the relay.
Bend the end wire straight out, and leave the other wires as they are.
<HR>
Apply some superglue to the relay.
<HR>
Then glue the relay with the straight pin touching terminal 5 (Ground), and the bent end terminal touching terminal 2 (Open) The other two wires should not be touching anything.
<HR>
Solder the two end wires to the terminals they are touching.
Be careful not to de-solder the already attached wires.
<HR>
To drive the relay we need +12volts.
We can get this from the power wires running to the lights.
The blue power wires meet in the middle, and have tape wrapped around them.
<HR>
Remove the electrical tape to expose the bare wire.
<HR>
Cut a piece of wire and solder it to the bare power wire.
If you did not disconnect the car battery, you could blow a fuse if you touch the power wire to a ground connection.
Once soldered wrap this connection back up with electrical tape.
<HR>
Solder the other end of this wire onto the lower of the two free wires on the relay.
Be careful that the wire is not loose, or the wire could cause a short while driving.
Once you complete this modification, I recommend applying high temperature hot-glue to all the new connections to prevent any shorts.
<HR>
There is one more free wire on the relay. This will connect to our capacitor.
But before we can connect it, you first need to know that large capacitors are polarity sensitive, like batteries.
Their negative side is marked with a minus sign running down one side of the capacitor.
<HR>
Connect the positive side of the capacitor to the free wire on the relay. (The side without the minus sign)
Use superglue or hot glue to keep the capacitor in place.
<HR>
Now we need to attach our resistor to the negative side of the capacitor.
If you want to be able to tweak the trimming you can replace the resistor with a 10K Potentiometer.
<HR>
The other end of this resistor attaches to terminal 2 (Open) on the moonroof control box.
<HR>
Capacitors can carry their charge for a long time, making the moonroof not able to close right away.
If you experience this you can put a resistor directly between the positive and negative legs of the capacitor. This resistor should be at least 4 times larger then the timing resistor.
I used a value of 27,000 ohms.
<HR>
Your circuit is now complete.
(The drain resistor was added after this photo)
<HR>
You can now attach the cables, and test the circuit.
Your moonroof should open fully, at normal speed.
You should be able to close the moonroof with-in a few seconds of it being fully open.
As long as the capacitor holds a charge, you can open or close the window like normal, once the capacitor drains, the circuit is reset, and pressing open will fully open the moonroof.
If you want more exact timings, use a Variable resistor (potentiometer) instead of the static timing resistor.
But note: Changes in humidity and temperature can affect the timing slightly.
<HR>Here is a movie of my moonroof after I did this mod: (825kb)
<HR>
Hey folks, time for another how-to:
<HR>
Automatic opening moonroof
2003 Mazda Protg - By ZapWizard
2003 Mazda Protg - By ZapWizard
<HR>This modification allows you to open your moonroof with a "one touch" press of the open button.
I recommend that you first apply my always-on modification located here: (Click Here)
<HR>The tools needed are:
- Soldering iron, preferably cordless
- Wire cutters
- Solder
- Wire
<HR>
This modification involves simply adding a timed relay to the existing OPEN button on the moonroof control assembly.
The relay is closed when you press the open switch.
The relay self-latch's and stays on, as long at the Capacitor is charging.
Once the capacitor reaches full charge, there is not enough current to keep the relay closed, and therefore the relay turns off. The 1200ohm resistor determines how long the capacitor takes to charge. It also limits the amount of drain on the car battery. This circuit consumes 10mA.
<HR>
First the relay:
All you need is a simple cheap 12volt Single Pole, Single Throw relay.
<HR>
The other two electronic parts needed is a 2200uF Capacitor, and a 1200Ohm resistor.
These are the values I used, different values will give you different timed openings.
The capacitor needs to be rated at least 24volts.
<HR>
The soldering iron I used is a RadioShack Butane soldering iron.
If you use an electric iron MAKE SURE AND DISCONNECT THE CAR BATTERY
<HR>
First locate the control box. (This should be easy)
<HR>
Get your fingers under one side of the controls an pull down.
If you need to use a tool, make sure it won't damage the plastic, or the fabric.
<HR>
The control box should pop out with some wires attached.
<HR>
Disconnect the control and power wires.
<HR>
Once removed, view the wires on the back.
It should be noted, the Ground wire (highlighted above) should be to your RIGHT.
<HR>
The terminals are labeled with numbers. We are interested in terminal 2 (Open switch) and terminal 5 (Ground)
Sorry for the messy look, as when I first did this mod I accidently hooked up to the close switch.
<HR>
First we need to prep the relay.
Bend the end wire straight out, and leave the other wires as they are.
<HR>
Apply some superglue to the relay.
<HR>
Then glue the relay with the straight pin touching terminal 5 (Ground), and the bent end terminal touching terminal 2 (Open) The other two wires should not be touching anything.
<HR>
Solder the two end wires to the terminals they are touching.
Be careful not to de-solder the already attached wires.
<HR>
To drive the relay we need +12volts.
We can get this from the power wires running to the lights.
The blue power wires meet in the middle, and have tape wrapped around them.
<HR>
Remove the electrical tape to expose the bare wire.
<HR>
Cut a piece of wire and solder it to the bare power wire.
If you did not disconnect the car battery, you could blow a fuse if you touch the power wire to a ground connection.
Once soldered wrap this connection back up with electrical tape.
<HR>
Solder the other end of this wire onto the lower of the two free wires on the relay.
Be careful that the wire is not loose, or the wire could cause a short while driving.
Once you complete this modification, I recommend applying high temperature hot-glue to all the new connections to prevent any shorts.
<HR>
There is one more free wire on the relay. This will connect to our capacitor.
But before we can connect it, you first need to know that large capacitors are polarity sensitive, like batteries.
Their negative side is marked with a minus sign running down one side of the capacitor.
<HR>
Connect the positive side of the capacitor to the free wire on the relay. (The side without the minus sign)
Use superglue or hot glue to keep the capacitor in place.
<HR>
Now we need to attach our resistor to the negative side of the capacitor.
If you want to be able to tweak the trimming you can replace the resistor with a 10K Potentiometer.
<HR>
The other end of this resistor attaches to terminal 2 (Open) on the moonroof control box.
<HR>
Capacitors can carry their charge for a long time, making the moonroof not able to close right away.
If you experience this you can put a resistor directly between the positive and negative legs of the capacitor. This resistor should be at least 4 times larger then the timing resistor.
I used a value of 27,000 ohms.
<HR>
Your circuit is now complete.
(The drain resistor was added after this photo)
<HR>
You can now attach the cables, and test the circuit.
Your moonroof should open fully, at normal speed.
You should be able to close the moonroof with-in a few seconds of it being fully open.
As long as the capacitor holds a charge, you can open or close the window like normal, once the capacitor drains, the circuit is reset, and pressing open will fully open the moonroof.
If you want more exact timings, use a Variable resistor (potentiometer) instead of the static timing resistor.
But note: Changes in humidity and temperature can affect the timing slightly.
<HR>Here is a movie of my moonroof after I did this mod: (825kb)
<HR>
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