Eibach Install Notes (High Res Pics)....

stingfish

Member
Eibachs Installed (Pics) + How-to....

Well I won't have pics up until later today when I get off work but I installed my Eibachs late last night. Eibach said they weren't shipping out until the 11th but I walk outside my front door at around 9pm last night and there's an Eibach box sitting there!!!!!!!!!!! OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ride quality is very good... car definitley handles better - still fairly neutral to pushy, doesn't bounce around (although we'll see what happens 6 months from now - by then though I'll have Eibach struts/shocks) and isn't clunky feeling at all, very comfortable/composed during my commute to work today.

I will add pics to this thread to show the ride height and stuff at around 2pm today... sorry, I didn't take any install pics... I did this all by myself so the last thing I was thinking about was touching my camera with a set of greasy hands.

Anyways... it's actually a pretty easy install. I did it in 3 hours by myself. If you've never done a spring install, it will likely take you an hour or two longer. Here are some notes to get the newbies through it...

Tools needed...
  • spring compressors (you can rent these at any auto parts store)
  • 17mm socket
  • 14 mm long socket
  • 14mm open end wrench
  • allen keys (4mm and 6mm)
  • 1/2" wrench or torque wrench with 3/8" adapter unless you have 1/2" sockets
  • 17mm open end wrench
  • ear plugs (I'll explain)
  • hammer (the heavier the better)
  • can of pb wrench (optional)
  • safety glasses (at least while you're compressing the springs)
REAR - The easy part...
  • SLIGHTLY loosen wheel bolts
  • make sure the car is in gear, parking brake on then jack up both sides
  • put it on stands
  • remove wheels
  • remove sway bar links from lower control arms... these links have allen sockets on the ends of the bolts... you'll probably need to use an allen to prevent the bolt from turning while you loosen the nut.
  • rotate the sway bar down and to the front of the car as far as it'll go
  • put jack under control arm to prevent it from dropping and sending the spring through you, your friend or a wall in the garage
    remove 17mm bolt holding control arm to spindle.
  • you do not have to remove the shock bolt
  • lower the control arm SLOWLY and the spring will ease it's way out.
  • put the new spring in.
  • jack the control arm up until it is aligned with the spindle bushing, insert the 17mm bolt and tighten with a torque wrench... don't know the torque spec but give it some muscle
  • do the other side.
  • with both springs installed, put the sway bar back into the sway bar links... tighten links back up and remember these links have allen sockets on the end so you'll need to use an allen key to prevent the bolt from turning... Tighten them good... I thought mine were tight, but one was still a little lose and was causing a rattle.
  • double and triple check that the sway bar links and the control arm bolt are tight
  • put wheels back on and take it for a SLOW, short test drive and listen for rattles
  • per Eibach, you do not need to cut down the factory bump stops
FRONT - A little tricker, but not hard...
  • SLIGHTLY loosen wheel bolts
    make sure the car is in gear, parking brake on then jack up both sides
  • put it on stands
  • remove wheels
  • slide the clip that holds the brake line to the strut tower off and push the brake line out (it's pops out when you push down a little)
  • jack the spindle control arm up about a 1/4 of an inch to remove the tension on the strut... loosen and remove the 14mm nut that holds the sway bar link the the strut assembly... the link is a LONG, very skinny vertical rod
  • remove the 17mm bolt from the bottom end of the strut tower
  • remove the ABS sensor plug (if you have one) from the spindle
    drop the jack down so you can remove the spindle from the strut tower
  • cover your CV joint boot with a thick rag in case PB Wrench drips onto it
  • spray pb wrench or WD40 onto the seam where the strut and spindle meet.
  • let this soak in for 10 minutes, spraying a little more on there every 1-2 minutes while you're waiting.
  • put your ear plugs in... there are several techniques for removing the spindle from the strut but this is mine and this is how I've done it on 5 other cars.
  • cover the rotor and calipers with a towel
  • start banging on the cast part of the spindle... doesn't have to be a monster bang... just hit it good and the spindle will start dropping... you may have to hit it a bunch of times... don't give up.
  • you can also try putting a heavy duty flat head screwdriver in between the joint at the back of the spindle and spread the joint... this worked on my Cobra... but didn't do much on the Mazda
  • there is also a tool but it's not readily available at auto parts stores... your dealer probably has one
  • once the spindle gets to the very end of the strut, move the spindle around and the strut will come out
  • now you can remove the strut
  • open the hood
  • take a 14mm socket with an extension and remove the 3 bolts on top of the strut tower - hold the tower for the last bolt so it doesn't fall
  • remove the tower
  • compress the spring using a set of spring compressors
  • compress them well... you don't want to remove the top nut and have the assembly pop out and shoot someone in the fase.
  • lay the assembly on the ground and point the both ends away from anything you value (just in case)
  • using a 17mm open end wrench and a 6mm allen wrench, remove the nut on top of the strut assembly
  • remove the spring comressors (EVENLY) do one side for 20 turns the other for 20 and repeat until they come off
  • put the spring compressor on the new spring and compress
  • mount the spring onto the strut assembly and place the top late back on, snap the strut boot back onto the top plate
  • per Eibach, you do not need to cut down the factory bump stops
  • put the nut on top and tighten down
  • remove the spring compressors
  • mount the strut back in on the top
  • jack the spindle up, put the strut in and align the tab at the back of the strut so that it slides back into the spindle notch
  • jack the spindle WAY up, then lightly tap on the spindle and majically the strut will work it's way into the spindle... but again, you have to have the spindle jacked way up for this technique to work
  • put your 17mm bolt back in and tighten
  • mount your sway bar link and the brake line/clip
  • repeat the process on the other side
  • DOUBLE, then TRIPLE check your bolts... this is the front end (the end that'll really make you crash if something comes loose)
  • mount your wheels
  • drop the car
  • take it out for another SLOW test drive
  • No Rattles???? Good... throw it through the turns and enjoy the killer handling.
  • not totally necessary but the next day I would jack each side up one at a time and just quadruple check every bolt you touched.
  • go get an alignment... come on... you paid $15-20k for the car... spend the $50... you think it handles well now, wait till you get it aligned!
Hope this helps - Oh and since this install involves some potentially dangerous stuff (i.e. spring compression), I take no responsibilty for your own actions.
 
Last edited:
I promise... by 2pm today you will have pics. I need something here to drool over at work when I'm away from the car so I'm as desperate as you.
 
Pics... Pics... Pics...

ok here are some pics... not the greatest because it was a quick one at lunch... car is still dirty... car sits about .5" lower than you see here when two people are in it. As you can see, the Eibach's did nothing for my brake dust problem :cry:

Personally, I think this drop is perfect... not extreme where the thing is totally uncomfortable, alignment is a problem... etc. but low enough to fit a nice set of 18's under there.

I'm very happy with the results... although I expect in the next couple of months the car to drop maybe 1/4" once the springs settle.

m3s_eibach_1.jpg


m3s_eibach_3.jpg
 
stingfish said:
Well I won't have pics up until later today when I get off work but I installed my Eibachs late last night. Eibach said they weren't shipping out until the 11th but I walk outside my front door at around 9pm last night and there's an Eibach box sitting there!!!!!!!!!!! OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ride quality is very good... car definitley handles better - still fairly neutral to pushy, doesn't bounce around (although we'll see what happens 6 months from now - by then though I'll have Eibach struts/shocks) and isn't clunky feeling at all, very comfortable/composed during my commute to work today.

I will add pics to this thread to show the ride height and stuff at around 2pm today... sorry, I didn't take any install pics... I did this all by myself so the last thing I was thinking about was touching my camera with a set of greasy hands.

Anyways... it's actually a pretty easy install. I did it in 3 hours by myself. If you've never done a spring install, it will likely take you an hour or two longer. Here are some notes to get the newbies through it...

Tools needed...
  • spring compressors (you can rent these at any auto parts store)
  • 17mm socket
  • 14 mm long socket
  • 14mm open end wrench
  • allen keys (4mm and 6mm)
  • 1/2" wrench or torque wrench with 3/8" adapter unless you have 1/2" sockets
  • 17mm open end wrench
  • ear plugs (I'll explain)
  • hammer (the heavier the better)
  • can of pb wrench (optional)
  • safety glasses (at least while you're compressing the springs)
REAR - The easy part...
  • SLIGHTLY loosen wheel bolts
  • make sure the car is in gear, parking brake on then jack up both sides
  • put it on stands
  • remove wheels
  • remove sway bar links from lower control arms... these links have allen sockets on the ends of the bolts... you'll probably need to use an allen to prevent the bolt from turning while you loosen the nut.
  • rotate the sway bar down and to the front of the car as far as it'll go
  • put jack under control arm to prevent it from dropping and sending the spring through you, your friend or a wall in the garage
    remove 17mm bolt holding control arm to spindle.
  • you do not have to remove the shock bolt
  • lower the control arm SLOWLY and the spring will ease it's way out.
  • put the new spring in.
  • jack the control arm up until it is aligned with the spindle bushing, insert the 17mm bolt and tighten with a torque wrench... don't know the torque spec but give it some muscle
  • do the other side.
  • with both springs installed, put the sway bar back into the sway bar links... tighten links back up and remember these links have allen sockets on the end so you'll need to use an allen key to prevent the bolt from turning... Tighten them good... I thought mine were tight, but one was still a little lose and was causing a rattle.
  • double and triple check that the sway bar links and the control arm bolt are tight
  • put wheels back on and take it for a SLOW, short test drive and listen for rattles
  • per Eibach, you do not need to cut down the factory bump stops
FRONT - A little tricker, but not hard...
  • SLIGHTLY loosen wheel bolts
    make sure the car is in gear, parking brake on then jack up both sides
  • put it on stands
  • remove wheels
  • slide the clip that holds the brake line to the strut tower off and push the brake line out (it's pops out when you push down a little)
  • jack the spindle control arm up about a 1/4 of an inch to remove the tension on the strut... loosen and remove the 14mm nut that holds the sway bar link the the strut assembly... the link is a LONG, very skinny vertical rod
  • remove the 17mm bolt from the bottom end of the strut tower
  • remove the ABS sensor plug (if you have one) from the spindle
    drop the jack down so you can remove the spindle from the strut tower
  • cover your CV joint boot with a thick rag in case PB Wrench drips onto it
  • spray pb wrench or WD40 onto the seam where the strut and spindle meet.
  • let this soak in for 10 minutes, spraying a little more on there every 1-2 minutes while you're waiting.
  • put your ear plugs in... there are several techniques for removing the spindle from the strut but this is mine and this is how I've done it on 5 other cars.
  • cover the rotor and calipers with a towel
  • start banging on the cast part of the spindle... doesn't have to be a monster bang... just hit it good and the spindle will start dropping... you may have to hit it a bunch of times... don't give up.
  • you can also try putting a heavy duty flat head screwdriver in between the joint at the back of the spindle and spread the joint... this worked on my Cobra... but didn't do much on the Mazda
  • there is also a tool but it's not readily available at auto parts stores... your dealer probably has one
  • once the spindle gets to the very end of the strut, move the spindle around and the strut will come out
  • now you can remove the strut
  • open the hood
  • take a 14mm socket with an extension and remove the 3 bolts on top of the strut tower - hold the tower for the last bolt so it doesn't fall
  • remove the tower
  • compress the spring using a set of spring compressors
  • compress them well... you don't want to remove the top nut and have the assembly pop out and shoot someone in the fase.
  • lay the assembly on the ground and point the both ends away from anything you value (just in case)
  • using a 17mm open end wrench and a 6mm allen wrench, remove the nut on top of the strut assembly
  • remove the spring comressors (EVENLY) do one side for 20 turns the other for 20 and repeat until they come off
  • put the spring compressor on the new spring and compress
  • mount the spring onto the strut assembly and place the top late back on, snap the strut boot back onto the top plate
  • per Eibach, you do not need to cut down the factory bump stops
  • put the nut on top and tighten down
  • remove the spring compressors
  • mount the strut back in on the top
  • jack the spindle up, put the strut in and align the tab at the back of the strut so that it slides back into the spindle notch
  • jack the spindle WAY up, then lightly tap on the spindle and majically the strut will work it's way into the spindle... but again, you have to have the spindle jacked way up for this technique to work
  • put your 17mm bolt back in and tighten
  • mount your sway bar link and the brake line/clip
  • repeat the process on the other side
  • DOUBLE, then TRIPLE check your bolts... this is the front end (the end that'll really make you crash if something comes loose)
  • mount your wheels
  • drop the car
  • take it out for another SLOW test drive
  • No Rattles???? Good... throw it through the turns and enjoy the killer handling.
  • not totally necessary but the next day I would jack each side up one at a time and just quadruple check every bolt you touched.
  • go get an alignment... come on... you paid $15-20k for the car... spend the $50... you think it handles well now, wait till you get it aligned!
Hope this helps - Oh and since this install involves some potentially dangerous stuff (i.e. spring compression), I take no responsibilty for your own actions.


That is a very very good write up on the spring install I did mine a week ago install is is pretty simple IMO but I have lowered a ton of cars the hardest part to me was getting the shock out of the spindle and I hate using spring compressers the only thing You need to specify to every one is to get McPherson strut/spring compressors Auto Zone has more then one kind
 
So I guess these aren't like Proteges that don't need a compressor.

dang.
 
Interesting that you have brake dust issues on the rear. Usually its the front due to them doing the majority of the braking.

Nice drop, i was hoping to drop ours but get about the same as you in front, and a little more in back. I want that BMW rear fender look.
 
Wicked3 said:
Interesting that you have brake dust issues on the rear. Usually its the front due to them doing the majority of the braking.

Nice drop, i was hoping to drop ours but get about the same as you in front, and a little more in back. I want that BMW rear fender look.

The brake dust issue has always been on the rear of these cars. It has nothing to do with how much of the load either end is doing... the compounds are usually different front to rear... it's the type of pad that's giving many of us the brake dust issue... once aftermarket pads become available, I bet the brake dust issue threads dissappear.

The pictures really don't tell the whole story... in real life, the car is a lot lower than it looks in these pictures, especially when you sit two people in it and that it's settle a little in the past few days. It likely doesn't drop the Sedan rear end as much as a 5 door because the 5-door is a little heavier, especially out back and thus more weight on the spring will bring it down a little.
 
you should get it aligned anyway. its not the camber that kills your tires its the toe which may have changed.

nice drop :)
 
uclap5 said:
you should get it aligned anyway. its not the camber that kills your tires its the toe which may have changed.

nice drop :)

an alignment is a must IMHO... camber on a drop this mild will not change enough to throw it out of spec... you are correct... toe is what you need to worry about... that'll make the car feel looser than is can be since it'll likely go toe out when dropped.
 
Or you could just leave it and pray that those damn RSAs wear out faster.

Then get it aligned when you buy her some better shoes. (2thumbs)
 
stingfish said:
The brake dust issue has always been on the rear of these cars. It has nothing to do with how much of the load either end is doing... the compounds are usually different front to rear... it's the type of pad that's giving many of us the brake dust issue... once aftermarket pads become available, I bet the brake dust issue threads dissappear.

The pictures really don't tell the whole story... in real life, the car is a lot lower than it looks in these pictures, especially when you sit two people in it and that it's settle a little in the past few days. It likely doesn't drop the Sedan rear end as much as a 5 door because the 5-door is a little heavier, especially out back and thus more weight on the spring will bring it down a little.


I undertstand about the brake dust, we have had the car for a week and I can already see the dust accumulating...and only on the rear.
 
how much would it cost to get a set of 4 springs installed? would pep boys or any specialty shop install them? id rather it professionally done and aligned before i drove it.
 
Wow... 2 years and 5 month dead thread. That's gotta be some kind of record.

Instead of asking us how much it would cost, you should be calling your local shops and asking them. :rolleyes:
 
The springs are only 200-250, then if you do them yourself and dont pay labor.

I wish those pics were up.
 
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