1997 Protege Problems
- Thread starter viper624
- Start date
- :
- 2006 Infiniti M
try adjusting the set screw on your VAF, its hidden by a small metal cover, pop it off and turn the screw clockwise until it smooths, thats a suggestion. my idle fixed itself after i gutted my cat 
I have a 1998 Protege DX 1.5L and I'm having a similar problem. My engine idles roughly and when accelerating the car sometimes jumps forward in small bursts. My fuel pump is also pretty loud. Some dumb mechanic put a crappy one in there and I didn't even realize it until it was too late.
I just replaced the cheaper of the two 02 sensors, had spark plugs changed, had any carbon build in my engine removed. I also replaced my transmission fluid.
So it's safe to say I should take it to the mechanic and tell them to look for the following first:
1) Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
2) Idle Air Control Valve
I just replaced the cheaper of the two 02 sensors, had spark plugs changed, had any carbon build in my engine removed. I also replaced my transmission fluid.
So it's safe to say I should take it to the mechanic and tell them to look for the following first:
1) Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
2) Idle Air Control Valve
viper624 said:
(thumb) I strongly recommend you to go
www.forparts.com/lCmazdaunderhoodmaintenance12.01.htm
Probably your problem is, as you said the Idle speed valve, but can be also
a torn air intake hose between the air flow sensor and the intake manifold.
Hope this helps.
Best Regards.
DieCastoms
Member
More Protege Idle and Vacuum Questions
Hey Everyone. I own a 97 protege and have been having issues with my engine lately.
I have a knock that I fear is going to be the end of her, but for now I would like to get what I can out of her.
When I start her she runs fine,(idling between 800 and 1100) but once I have driven and she comes up to temp., I really have to stand on the brake at lights cause she wants to go, and if I knock her into neutral (which I tend to do just so I don't have to hold her back) she 'idles' around 2200. RARLEY I can kick her down to roughly 1600 but more often then not she sits at 22.
I have some intake leaks which I can hear but cannot find. I KNOW I have a large leak between the air cleaner sensors, and the intake. Can I duct tape it for now?
Also, there is a small line from the top of the engine to the air intake hose which has broken and is to short to splice back (again. I did it once two years ago).
High on the passenger's side of the back of the intake is a vacuum line that just slips on. With the engine running, pulling that line off doesn't seem to change anything (by sound) but the whistle from the leak goes away. Putting my finger over the port on the engine (not the hose I took off) makes the whistle come back, but still nothing changes.
Next is, immediately above the air intake on the manifold is a post with a screw inside of it. Being the wreckless kind of guy I am, I turned it about 1/2 turn, and the engine seemed to clear a little. What is that screw and should I leave it where the engine sounds clean, or return it to where it was?
Last but certainly most expensive, since it is inevitable that the engine is going to die in my Baby, suggest a few places where I could get a new or gently used (-50k) engine that will bolt in and not require too many ecu changes and such. I am not looking for a race winning engine but I would like something that will press you into the seat a bit more then what she has now. I intend to take her off the road one day and overhaul her, but on a small budget. Please take me seriously even though I haven't posted much, and tell me what you think!
Thanks,
Blaise, at DC
Hey Everyone. I own a 97 protege and have been having issues with my engine lately.
I have a knock that I fear is going to be the end of her, but for now I would like to get what I can out of her.
When I start her she runs fine,(idling between 800 and 1100) but once I have driven and she comes up to temp., I really have to stand on the brake at lights cause she wants to go, and if I knock her into neutral (which I tend to do just so I don't have to hold her back) she 'idles' around 2200. RARLEY I can kick her down to roughly 1600 but more often then not she sits at 22.
I have some intake leaks which I can hear but cannot find. I KNOW I have a large leak between the air cleaner sensors, and the intake. Can I duct tape it for now?
Also, there is a small line from the top of the engine to the air intake hose which has broken and is to short to splice back (again. I did it once two years ago).
High on the passenger's side of the back of the intake is a vacuum line that just slips on. With the engine running, pulling that line off doesn't seem to change anything (by sound) but the whistle from the leak goes away. Putting my finger over the port on the engine (not the hose I took off) makes the whistle come back, but still nothing changes.
Next is, immediately above the air intake on the manifold is a post with a screw inside of it. Being the wreckless kind of guy I am, I turned it about 1/2 turn, and the engine seemed to clear a little. What is that screw and should I leave it where the engine sounds clean, or return it to where it was?
Last but certainly most expensive, since it is inevitable that the engine is going to die in my Baby, suggest a few places where I could get a new or gently used (-50k) engine that will bolt in and not require too many ecu changes and such. I am not looking for a race winning engine but I would like something that will press you into the seat a bit more then what she has now. I intend to take her off the road one day and overhaul her, but on a small budget. Please take me seriously even though I haven't posted much, and tell me what you think!
Thanks,
Blaise, at DC