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Thread: How To: Kill your turkeys

  1. #1
    Breathe 505zoom's Avatar
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    How To: Kill your turkeys

    This guide is for people with aftermarket/custom hardpipes. For those of you who are running the stock plastic pipes, read this to get an idea of what you will be doing, and then refer to "Mach 3.5 Turbo's" thread for attatching the HKS to the stock pipes, found here:
    http://www.msprotege.com/vbb230/show...threadid=47267

    If you have specific questions about the installation process, ask them here. Please put ALL other compressor surge related posts in my other thread: http://www.msprotege.com/vbb230/show...hreadid=39676, or in sonicraze's thread in FI: http://www.msprotege.com/vbb230/show...hreadid=39433. Or you can PM me.

    I would like to keep this thread organized and informative. It will make it better for someone who needs help with the install.

    The iON FMIC/hardpipes, and HKS SSQV are what were used on the car in the pics.


    1. Assuming that you are running the stock by-pass valve (BPV), and hardpipes, choose an aftermarket BOV that you like. The HKS SSQV, and the Greddy type-S work for sure. You will also need a stainless steel or aluminum flange that is compatible with your new BOV.

    2. Remove the section of hardpipe that connects to the throttle body(TB).


    3. On this section of pipe, you will want to make a hole that is the exact same size as the inner diameter(ID) of your flange. Make this hole no closer than 3", and no further than 14" from the TB.


    4. Have your flange welded(or weld it yourself) so it lines up with the hole that you made on the hardpipe. This cost me less than 25$ to have done at my local welder.


    5. Attach your BOV to the now welded flange/hardpipe, and reinstall into it's original position.


    6. Run a dedicated vacuum line to your new BOV, or tee into a vacuum line close to the manifold, and run as short of a line as possible to the nipple on the BOV.


    7. This is the key: Leave your stock BPV in place.

    8. You will now need to adjust your valve. Go on a drive and take a wrench for adjusting. The adjustment bolt on the SSQV is a 10mm. Start with the bolt at the loosest setting it can be without falling out, and tighten it 1 full turn for the initiall setting BEFORE you drive it. Test it and if it sounds like the valve is opening just a little too early, tighten some more. Repeat this process untill it performs and sounds the way you want. You want the valve loose enough to fully open under boost, but not so loose that it opens too early.

    You're done! Now go and drive your gobbleless car! You can now scare innocent bystander's with a different sound Enjoy



    If you are running hardpipes and an aftermarket BOV and are still getting the surge, the steps are simple:
    1. Reinstall your stock BPV to compliment the aftermarket BOV you are running.
    2. Give your BOV a clean vacuum source.
    Last edited by 505zoom; 01-15-2004 at 02:44 AM.
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  2. #2
    '04 Mazdaspeed MX-5 #1089 jersey_emt's Avatar
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    AWESOME job Rich...clear instructions and clear pics. Glad to hear you finally killed the turkey. Just in time for Thanksgiving too!

    -Justin, Mazda Forums Supermoderator

    Should you have any questions or issues with anything here on Mazda Forums, please PM me.

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  3. #3
    Blown By You
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    I'm not seeing your stock BPV anywhere in the pics after you installed the SSQV. Also, why do you have a MAP sensor hooked up?
    -Ev8sive
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  4. #4
    From the da Skreet ^tyrant^'s Avatar
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    great work man, nice and clean. this should get a sticky in the how-to
    03.5 MSP > 05 STI > 07 Ram 1500
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  5. #5
    Breathe 505zoom's Avatar
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    Originally posted by turboge
    I'm not seeing your stock BPV anywhere in the pics after you installed the SSQV. Also, why do you have a MAP sensor hooked up?
    The stocker sits right underneath the injen, you can see the hose that leads back to the injen in step 5. Here's a better look, the clear hose and elbow has been replaced


    Where do you see a map hooked up? I don't have one
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  6. #6
    Breathe 505zoom's Avatar
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    Originally posted by jersey_emt
    AWESOME job Rich...clear instructions and clear pics. Glad to hear you finally killed the turkey. Just in time for Thanksgiving too!
    Yeah

    Originally posted by ^tyrant^
    great work man, nice and clean. this should get a sticky in the how-to
    If a mod would like to put this there, please do. I wasn't sure about the process of getting it there.
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  7. #7
    Registered User PaulMP3's Avatar
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    i dont understand why one BOV wont work... it seems to work fine for all us boosted protege..

    Performance Mods:Custom MSP turbo kit w/ ported manifold and downpipe, MPI piggyback,Tochigi Fugi LSD,Fidanza flywheel,ACT street clutch, SS clutch line, SS brake lines,awr motor mounts,JoeP MBC,2 1/2"exhaust with wagner mid pipe, MagnaFlow resonator, JIC canister, Random Technology cat,Greddy type S BOV,Rotora front rotors (slotted)brembo rear rotors,Hawk HPS pads,Spool springs,Kartboy Shifter/Bushing/Knob/exhaust hangers,1st grounding kit (blue)Sparkco wires(blue), mini oil catch can

    Electronics/Appearance Mods: UEGO widebando2 ,Greddy warning boost gauge, EGT, and oil pressure gauges, MSD knock senor w/ display, Blitz TT, Clear side marker,DaveB rings,DGM auto exe replica grill, Alpine 5 channel amp, blue coolant catch can

    Waiting to install: J&S safeguard, exhaust cutout

  8. #8
    Breathe 505zoom's Avatar
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    Originally posted by paulmp3
    i dont understand why one BOV wont work... it seems to work fine for all us boosted protege..
    Our turbos must just be very easy to surge. I don't know of anyone who has put a msp turbo on a es/lx/mp3 protege yet.
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  9. #9
    Blown By You
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    What's zip tied to the A/C line in step 6?

    I'm guessing you had another setup on this BOV which you cut the Injen pipe down, and thats why you've had to re-locate the stock BPV?
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  10. #10
    Breathe 505zoom's Avatar
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    Originally posted by turboge
    What's zip tied to the A/C line in step 6?
    I'm not sure what that is. It was mounted on the stock IC----->TB pipe, and I had no where to remount it with the iON kit. I just zip tied it down.

    Originally posted by turboge
    I'm guessing you had another setup on this BOV which you cut the Injen pipe down, and thats why you've had to re-locate the stock BPV? [/B]
    Exactly, trial and error my friend
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  11. #11
    jflo jflo's Avatar
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    first, i'd like to say AWESOME !

    now, can u get some sound clips of ur SSQV ? where is the BPV connected to before recirculating to the CAI ?

    also, does this mean that u're venting and recirculating @ the same time ?

  12. #12
    ....shut down in 3 2 1 AutoBox's Avatar
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    alot of work just to get the pphhhssssss
    MEC Member -

  13. #13
    Breathe 505zoom's Avatar
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    Originally posted by jflo
    first, i'd like to say AWESOME !

    now, can u get some sound clips of ur SSQV ? where is the BPV connected to before recirculating to the CAI ?

    also, does this mean that u're venting and recirculating @ the same time ?
    Yes this setup is venting through the SSQV, while also recirculating through the stock BPV. With the BOV adjusted properly, you will not stall running like this.

    Look at my picture a couple of posts up, and you can see where the stock valve is.

    Here are the sound clips that show the difference between the HKS recirculated and the dual valve setup:

    HKS recircualting, no stock valve:
    http://www.wpi.edu/~jck15243/MOV00495.MPG
    This is also very similar to the sound of the stock BPV.

    New setup: HKS open vent, with stock BPV recirculating:
    http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/505zoom/mov00533.mpg
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  14. #14
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    so there is no way to do this without hardpipes? and how did u connect both valves, sounds sweet ass...im just a little confused on the dual valves?>!

  15. #15
    Banned Dexter's Avatar
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    im going to try in exactly an hour with a stock setup and HKS. it probably wont work, but ill post

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