How To: Custom Cold Air Intake

[enry]

submitted by big_ben:

Required parts:
1. Tight Radius 90deg - 2.5" ID Aluminized steel exhaust tubing - 1 each(www.jcwhitney.com) part# 47ZX6175R - $29.95
2. Normal Radius 90deg - 2.5"ID Aluminized steel exhaust tubing - 2 each(www.jcwhitney.com) part# 81ZX2953P - $9.95 x 2

3. 1"x2' wide steel metal strip - 1 each(Any Lowes or Home Depot) $?
4. 2.5" rubber hose couplings with hose clamps - 3 each(Any Lowes or Home Depot) $2.50 x 3 (The couplings at Lowes say 2" but they are really 2.5")

5. 0.5"ID x 1.5" long steel tubing - 1 each (I don't know where you can get this, I got mine at the radiator shop that did the welding) $?

6. Cone air filter with 2.5" collar - 1 each (cost depends on what you buy)
7. 0.75" Silicone Hose - (AutoZone or Pep Boys) A complete kit with all sizes costs about $20
8. 0.75" x 1" bolt(1 each), nut that will fit the bolt(1 each), washer(1 each), lock washer(1 each)

Required tools:
1. Hack saw (this will take a while), I used a drill and bought a cutting disk from Lowes ($15)
2. Metal file (this will take a while), I used a grinding bit on a drill ($10)
3. 2 cans of spray primer, 2 cans of spray paint
4. Drill with several drill bits (sizes around 0.5" for the air temp sensor and crank case recirculation tube) I think that's what that tube is.


Building:
This part is very hard to tell you how to do. You basically have to get under the hood and see approximately where to cut the tubes. The tight radius will go into the throttle body so that you don't rub the master cylinder. Cut it to size. You want the pipes to be as strait as possible. So when you make cuts, make sure you angle the pipe in a way that it will come close to the battery box. Drill a hole that will let the 1.5" steel tube be welded. Then use the one of the normal radius 90's for the bend around the battery box. Make sure these two pipes line up pretty close. Make several marks on the two pipes where they should be welded together. Cut the 1" wide metal strip in half, bend one half 90 degrees. This will be welded on the the pipe that passes the battery box and be used as a support brace. Draw lines on the tube on each side of the brace where it should be welded. Leave a gap for the MAS. Then use the second normal radius 90 to go into the fender area. Drill a hole in this tube for the air temp sensor to fit in. (I'm not sure on the size) Try to angle the tube going into the fender so that the bottom end angles forward so that the filter doesn't rub on the wheel shroud. Use the other piece of the 1" metal strip for the brace here. The bend I made there wasn't quite 90 degrees. Make marks in the same way for this piece to be welded on. Take the tubes to any place that does welding(radiator shop, muffler shop, etc.), make sure that the pieces are marked and numbered well enough for a monkey to understand how to put them together. This should cost no more than $25 to get them welded. After you get it back, you will need to grind down the welds, or get them to do it for you. It will cost a little more then. Tell them to make it look good though. Then drill holes through the ends of the supports so they can be bolted into place. There is already a bolt on the front corner of the battery box for the 1st section. After you finish the intake, paint it with several coats of primer and several coats of paint. I recommend using high temp paint. You don't have to though. You will have to remove the overflow tank and modify it for the section going into the fender. There is instructions for this on the MHP website, but I did mine different and it looks much better than theirs. Theirs is mounted at a dumb looking angle. Mine is straight. To do this, you have to cut the base in half and drill a new hole. You can see how to do this in the pictures. The pictures are self explanatory and if you look at them long enough, you will easily understand how you need to build this intake. Have fun and take your time. It took me about 2 or 3 days to do it. Not working on it all day of course.

Pics to come soon

[ES-2.0-X-2]

sounds simple enough, do you have pictures of the process or of the finished product, they would be great. thanks

[TXprotege]

Originally posted by enry
submitted by big_ben:

Required parts:
1. Tight Radius 90deg - 2.5" ID Aluminized steel exhaust tubing - 1 each(www.jcwhitney.com) part# 47ZX6175R - $29.95
2. Normal Radius 90deg - 2.5"ID Aluminized steel exhaust tubing - 2 each(www.jcwhitney.com) part# 81ZX2953P - $9.95 x 2

3. 1"x2' wide steel metal strip - 1 each(Any Lowes or Home Depot) $?
4. 2.5" rubber hose couplings with hose clamps - 3 each(Any Lowes or Home Depot) $2.50 x 3 (The couplings at Lowes say 2" but they are really 2.5")

5. 0.5"ID x 1.5" long steel tubing - 1 each (I don't know where you can get this, I got mine at the radiator shop that did the welding) $?

6. Cone air filter with 2.5" collar - 1 each (cost depends on what you buy)
7. 0.75" Silicone Hose - (AutoZone or Pep Boys) A complete kit with all sizes costs about $20
8. 0.75" x 1" bolt(1 each), nut that will fit the bolt(1 each), washer(1 each), lock washer(1 each)

Required tools:
1. Hack saw (this will take a while), I used a drill and bought a cutting disk from Lowes ($15)
2. Metal file (this will take a while), I used a grinding bit on a drill ($10)
3. 2 cans of spray primer, 2 cans of spray paint
4. Drill with several drill bits (sizes around 0.5" for the air temp sensor and crank case recirculation tube) I think that's what that tube is.


Building:
This part is very hard to tell you how to do. You basically have to get under the hood and see approximately where to cut the tubes. The tight radius will go into the throttle body so that you don't rub the master cylinder. Cut it to size. You want the pipes to be as strait as possible. So when you make cuts, make sure you angle the pipe in a way that it will come close to the battery box. Drill a hole that will let the 1.5" steel tube be welded. Then use the one of the normal radius 90's for the bend around the battery box. Make sure these two pipes line up pretty close. Make several marks on the two pipes where they should be welded together. Cut the 1" wide metal strip in half, bend one half 90 degrees. This will be welded on the the pipe that passes the battery box and be used as a support brace. Draw lines on the tube on each side of the brace where it should be welded. Leave a gap for the MAS. Then use the second normal radius 90 to go into the fender area. Drill a hole in this tube for the air temp sensor to fit in. (I'm not sure on the size) Try to angle the tube going into the fender so that the bottom end angles forward so that the filter doesn't rub on the wheel shroud. Use the other piece of the 1" metal strip for the brace here. The bend I made there wasn't quite 90 degrees. Make marks in the same way for this piece to be welded on. Take the tubes to any place that does welding(radiator shop, muffler shop, etc.), make sure that the pieces are marked and numbered well enough for a monkey to understand how to put them together. This should cost no more than $25 to get them welded. After you get it back, you will need to grind down the welds, or get them to do it for you. It will cost a little more then. Tell them to make it look good though. Then drill holes through the ends of the supports so they can be bolted into place. There is already a bolt on the front corner of the battery box for the 1st section. After you finish the intake, paint it with several coats of primer and several coats of paint. I recommend using high temp paint. You don't have to though. You will have to remove the overflow tank and modify it for the section going into the fender. There is instructions for this on the MHP website, but I did mine different and it looks much better than theirs. Theirs is mounted at a dumb looking angle. Mine is straight. To do this, you have to cut the base in half and drill a new hole. You can see how to do this in the pictures. The pictures are self explanatory and if you look at them long enough, you will easily understand how you need to build this intake. Have fun and take your time. It took me about 2 or 3 days to do it. Not working on it all day of course.

Pics to come soon

Does this apply to all gen pro's?

[pingdum]

I've seen people selling different kits for manual and automatic. Does it make a dfference?

[big_ben]

No.

[LinuxRacr]

Good quality. I've accually seen these things in the works.

[D-SPEC]

Question how much of an increase in Hp and torque should
I be looking for with a cold air intake?

[murdock_]

thanks for the write up. i saved that one for later

[rednecks_r_us]

I bought a Mazda Protege 2.0L Polished Intake Kit with K&N Filter from dohccivicna1250(7175) on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=10368&item=2413548634

They sent me the wrong parts. Stubborn me made them fit.
I used the stock pieces from the engine to the air sensor. Then I replaiced the air box with the polished 90 degree elbow and put the K&N filter on the other end.

Now the check engine light is on and the car won't idle. It bogs until 5500 RPS then bogs again at 6000.

It sounds good though.

Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Sorry to take your spot. I tried searching and this was the only one I could find that was somewhat related.

Later,

Bill

ZOOM-(cough-cough)-Zoom

[sal002]

That Ebay filter is a Short Ram, right? What is being described here is a CAI. Are there any pictures?

[big_ben]

The one's on ebay are pieces of shit. They are short rams and they more than likely result in a loss of power. There are plenty of photos you will just have to search for them.

[big_ben]

Actually, I'm not sure where they are on this site so here is a link to my photo album.

CAI photos

[sal002]

You still make them?

[big_ben]

No.

[sal002]

Damn... ;P