This is how I installed my Greddy Profec B Spec 2. Disclaimer crap: Use these instructions at your own risk. Install was easy and works perfectly for me.
Suggested: Disconnect the Negative battery terminal.
First, read the entire install instructions in the manual.
Now, check your parts list and make sure you have them all.
The first step in installing would be the boost gauge hose. Find the hose coming from the FPR as seen in the first picture. Cut it and install the three-way splitter. Cut a 6-inch piece of the supplied small hose (4mm) and connect it to the splitter. Now install the supplied filter and connect the remaining hose to the other side of the filter. Run the hose to the right side of the engine bay and leave it there for now.
Next I installed the 6mm Brass hose fittings supplied into the "COM" and "NO" holes in the Valve Unit. Then I mounted the valve unit using the rubber washers supplied. I used the stock air box bolt because it was a perfect fit and location but you must have a CAI or SRI for this, otherwise find a location to mount the Valve Unit away from heat as much as possible. If you have it close enough to the wastegate you can use the hose already connected (allows evidence free removal). I had to remove the factory clamp because the hose would not quite reach.
Now cut enough hose to reach from the "NO" hose fitting on the Valve unit, to the factory T splice in vac hose shown below. Remove bottom hose from wastegate and connect the new hose.
Now depending on where you mounted your Valve Unit, Connect the hose from the wastegate that was removed from the T into the "COM" hose fitting on the Valve Unit, or remove the factory tamper proof clamp and vac hose from the wastegate and run a new longer one. Be sure to zip tie each new hose in place. Greddy supplies two hose clamps that I used at the Valve Unit connections.
Now route the wire harness from the Valve Unit to the back right of the engine bay, being sure that it wont get pinched by anything when the hood is closed. Zip tie this in place also along its route to prevent it getting crushed or cut. Now locate the nice little grommet at the back right of the engine bay. Cut a slit in the right side that has nothing routed through it. Now this is the hard part. Push the vac hose for the boost gauge and the Valve Unit harness through this hole in the grommet. I used a flat head screwdriver to help me get them started, then found them under the dash and pulled them through. Be sure not to pull too much or you will disconnect the hose or break the wires.
Now find a good place to mount the EBC Unit (but do not mount it yet). I chose the pocket under the center dash bezel because it required no extra holes for the hose and wires. Now route the hose and wires and zip tie them as you go. Removing the storage compartment under the radio makes this a little easier and also lets you connect the power and ground wires. Now tap the power wire and ground the black wire to a bolt in the body of the car. Sand the paint to ensure good contact is made. For the power I used the small red wire in the padded radio harness that is located right behind that pocket below the radio. It’s the only all red wire on the radio side of the harness. Now connect the vac hose, the harness from the Valve Unit, and the Power Harness to EBC unit. Mount the Unit with the double-sided tape.
Test for power and make sure vac pressure is reading. Now tune it slowly by following the directions in the manual. Turn the large knob to increase boost by increments of two percent at a time and have a friend check your boost pressure at WOT. Increase until desired boost is reached. Don’t set "start boost" higher than your boost setting or it will cause over boost. I leave gain around 10. Boosting over 10 will hit fuel cut without FCD.
If you have any questions email me at Stang98chrome17s@aol.com
~John~
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Originally Posted by Fai
ed now.
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