ECU reset switch

DaKidd

Member
:
BLACK MICA MSP#1032
ECU reset switch ?

I was thinking about installing an inline "reset" switch in the power wire going to the ECU. I installed my Injen CAI, reset the ECU at the battery, and the hesitation was gone for almost a week. Yes, the hesitation came back, but I pulled the neg wire to the battery again and it was fixed for another couple of days.

OK, I know that Mazda should fix this issue. but until they do, I was thinking that this would at least take some of the edge off. all you would need to do is once a week or so, just flip that switch for a sec. and Wala, the ECU is reset, and u get ur good ole hesitation free MSP back with out having to go through all of the trouble of redoing all of ur radio presets and stuff.

My only consern is that this is a learning ECU, and that if it is always in learning mode, then it may not be able to prevent something bad from happening like detination, or something else like that.

Any comments welcome, and requested!

P.S. is the power wire to the ECU clearly marked as such? If not, does anyone know what it looks like???
 
Last edited:
I noticed when I reset my ECU the hesitation vanished for a week as well
 
I'm pretty sure all protege's have a "learning" ecu. I've also read, and heard in discussion that if you were to change your driving style for a while, the ecu would adjust again - without being reset. It's your car, do what you want. I don't see where it could be that big of a deal, god forbid there is a problem - you can tell the dealer that you changed the battery in the car. God help you though if the dealer has some sort of cache on the ecu that can tell them how many times it has been reset.

Let us know what you decide.

Just out of curiousity, has anyone waited a while after the hesitation begins? Perhaps the ecu could still be in it's learning mode and would then be able to adjust for it.

I gotta say this - I am so glad I have an ES, and not a MSP. I've read some strange stuff about the MSP's. My ES, over 21,000 miles since I got it in October 2002 - no problems. The MSP doesn't exactly fit the sleeper persona anyway - which is the main goal for my car.

Then again, your MSP's are faster, handle better, and will have a higher resale value. :)
 
Logan said:
There is a fuse beside your left foot, pull it.

I have yet to do any searching for a fuse to pull, but if Logan is correct, then I would just pull that fuse. It would be less of a hassle to do that than to splice in a switch. Personally, I wouldn't feel safe splicing in a switch, I would splice in a more accessable fuse if you really want to....that would avoid any amerage spikes from damaging your ecu....that way you would blow the fuse before blowing the ecu.

Just my $0.02
 
It's ok, watch what Perfworks does to my automatic! I might go with the Eibach pro kit, for handling, not sure yet. Perf is supposed to bring a set to the shop today so I can check them out. I want to keep the stock look of my car. Anyone have an opinion on how drastic the drop is? I'd like to kill my wheel gap, but I don't want it to look noticably lowered. Anyone made the swap?


chwood said:



(lol)

(drinks)
 
The ECU has what is called "adaptive strategies" which enables it to learn to a certain degree.

As far as the ECU keeping track of how many times it's been reset, I'm not sure it has that capability. If it did, I would think it would have to have a small battery to keep the data stored when power was removed. When automotive industry switched over to ODB2 in the mid 90's they increased the capability to track problems, but I never really got too in depth on the operations of the ODB2 computer.


One thing I have learned, and Im not sure if it applies to the ODB2 ECU, but after you reset the computer, start the car and let it idle for 5 minutes without doing anything. This will let the computer relearn idle strategies quicker, and help prevent stalling issues after resetting the ECU.
 
Thanx guys! That is a good idea about just pulling the fuse... why didnt I think of that (hand) ???

I also didnt know that about letting the ECU relearn idle stratagies either!!! But now that I think of it, it makes a lot of sense!

MAN I LOVE THIS PLACE! (2thumbs)
 
Micah said:
It's ok, watch what Perfworks does to my automatic! I might go with the Eibach pro kit, for handling, not sure yet. Perf is supposed to bring a set to the shop today so I can check them out. I want to keep the stock look of my car. Anyone have an opinion on how drastic the drop is? I'd like to kill my wheel gap, but I don't want it to look noticably lowered. Anyone made the swap?



Eibach's make a noticeable drop. They drop 1.4 in the front, 1.2 in the rear. But after they settle, it seems more than that. My car seems like it is pretty damn low now.

I think H&R makes springs with a less noticeable drop that allow your car to handle better. If you are looking for the sleeper look but still want it to handle better and don't want your car to look too low, I would go with them, unless you have the money to get JIC's or Tein full coilover setup which are fully adjustable.
 
mazda mp3 ecu computer

I have a mazda mp3 and i'm looking for a ECU computer if anyone have one please let me know, thankx
 
My P5 has the Pro Kit and tokico HPs, it's a moderate drop in appearance, I kinda wish it was about .25 lower, but the ride quality is superb.

It's ok, watch what Perfworks does to my automatic! I might go with the Eibach pro kit, for handling, not sure yet. Perf is supposed to bring a set to the shop today so I can check them out. I want to keep the stock look of my car. Anyone have an opinion on how drastic the drop is? I'd like to kill my wheel gap, but I don't want it to look noticably lowered. Anyone made the swap?
 
Back