Alignment with H&R sport springs

You can get factory toe with stock toe hardware. I get factory toe spec with my coilovers.
OK-thanks. I just ordered the Megan bars ($200 delivered) and SPC cam bolts ($20) for the front. I'm about to replace the OE Yokahamas @ not quite 31k miles and I don't want the replacements to suffer the same shoulder wear.
 
Anyone know if there's a step-by-step somewhere here or elsewhere on changing the upper control (camber) arms? The FWM instructions aren't terribly clear.
 
Anyone know if there's a step-by-step somewhere here or elsewhere on changing the upper control (camber) arms? The FWM instructions aren't terribly clear.

I can send a copy of the WSM, basically you need to lower the rear sub a few inches so you have enough room to remove the top bolt. The rear sub is held on by four bolts. You can put the car on stands, pit a jack under the LCA and loosen the bolt near wherever the jack is, one at a time ( to remove tension close to the bolt). You might not have to remove them all the way. You will need to remove the wheel and place a jack under the brake as you undo the bolt on the side nearest the wheel.
 
I can send a copy of the WSM, basically you need to lower the rear sub a few inches so you have enough room to remove the top bolt. The rear sub is held on by four bolts. You can put the car on stands, pit a jack under the LCA and loosen the bolt near wherever the jack is, one at a time ( to remove tension close to the bolt). You might not have to remove them all the way. You will need to remove the wheel and place a jack under the brake as you undo the bolt on the side nearest the wheel.
I notice JBR's instruction call for removing the springs as well as the top shock retaining nuts. However his instructions cover a range of models, so some parts may not be CX-5 specific.
 
I can send a copy of the WSM, basically you need to lower the rear sub a few inches so you have enough room to remove the top bolt. ]The rear sub is held on by four bolts. You can put the car on stands, pit a jack under the LCA and loosen the bolt near wherever the jack is, one at a time ( to remove tension close to the bolt). You might not have to remove them all the way. You will need to remove the wheel and place a jack under the brake as you undo the bolt on the side nearest the wheel.
Mazda coulda' saved everyone a lot of grief simply by reversing the inner UCA bolts so the 17mm head was facing toward the rear and the captured nut buried against the floor pan. Took me half a day to get the driver's side arm changed!
 
i need some advice about H&R spring which using 1 year 5 months (since 2000 Km to now 33,000 Km) with stock CX5 2.0 in Thailand. My only front wheel tyres , 245/45 R20 , but rear wheel is normal as shown pictures
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Next time, when I do something with my suspension, or I need an alignment, I will install these myself. The camber, is just barely in green with the CS springs. The mechanic, had to loosen those two bolts on the struts and he had to use some air pillow tool, to push things in green and than he tightened those screws.
 
Next time, when I do something with my suspension, or I need an alignment, I will install these myself. The camber, is just barely in green with the CS springs. The mechanic, had to loosen those two bolts on the struts and he had to use some air pillow tool, to push things in green and than he tightened those screws.
It's a clever design and an easy install. With that and the Megan rear camber arms installed, we'll see how my alignment goes Friday.
 
Are the stock springs on the CX-5's equipped with the 19" wheels shorter than the springs on the stock 17" wheels? I read somewhere they were. Wondering if getting my hands on those (if they are shorter) would improve handling.
 
Are the stock springs on the CX-5's equipped with the 19" wheels shorter than the springs on the stock 17" wheels? I read somewhere they were. Wondering if getting my hands on those (if they are shorter) would improve handling.
All CX-5 springs are the same.
 
Okay, after hunting around to several shops, finally did what Christopher suggested and went to NTB National Tire and Battery. They were very professional and did not just look up the labor hours to do a job like every other mechanic. They did $307 to swap in the H&R Springs and put on the spacers. They also told me to come by once a week for the next month to retorque the spacers.

The car looks great with its lower and wider stance, and now I am in no rush to spend money on new rims. Will wait til the tires go. Still have to pay for alignment which I will do in a few weeks after everything settles.

The whole experience has really jaded me against mechanics. They all look in the same sources to quote how long a particular job should take, but the sources are written by the industry. 8 hours estimated to change out effing springs for this car, when anybody who actually does it takes less than 3. And of course they still charge you for what the 8 hrs the holy bible says. What a sham.... The guys at NTB were laughing.

I will hold my laughter until I drive a few thousand miles without my stuff falling off.

By the way, also installed the Curt trailer hitch. Already halled my Ducati to the track, was a great experience. 2 more outings in the next 6 weeks and it will have paid for itself.

Thx for all the advice on here guys.
 
I'm about to install the SPC version of those bolts this morning. https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Sure hope they work as advertised!

Those bolts are for front struts that require the strut-to-knuckle mounting tabs of the struts to be slotted (if not already from the factory).
They are really not that great of a design and a PITA to dial in camber with because it requires access to them by more then likely removing the wheel.

An optimal solution is adjustable strut mounting plates for the front, and for the rear hardrace or MR control arms.
 
Those bolts are for front struts that require the strut-to-knuckle mounting tabs of the struts to be slotted (if not already from the factory).
They are really not that great of a design and a PITA to dial in camber with because it requires access to them by more then likely removing the wheel.

An optimal solution is adjustable strut mounting plates for the front, and for the rear hardrace or MR control arms.

Tell that to the tech who gave me perfect alignment numbers using SPC bolts.
 
Post your alignment before and after sheet. If your front strut mounting tabs were not slotted then those bolts are smaller diameter then the factory bolts and are at a much higher risk of breaking off since the only way to allow the strut-to-knuckle camber angle to change is with a smaller bolt and cam eccentric for adjustment.
 
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Mine, with C/S springs and no SPC bolts, are just barely in green. Technician, loosened the top bolt at the strut lower mount and used an air pillow, to push the knuckle out and then re-tightened the top bolt.
 
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