Alignment with H&R sport springs

guido2358

Member
:
2015 Mazda CX-5 Sport, 6spd manual
After installing this lowering spring kit, will any alignment facility be able to align the CX-5 properly without any additional hardware(i.e. adjustable cam bolts, etc.)? Considering this mod when I replace the tires in 2 months and if I bite on it I want to make sure I know the total cost, and I have any necessary extra hardware when I get the work done.
 
I bought some rear camber arms (forgot real name) and did not end up using them as they were able to get the rear just into spec. Plus if you have only front wheel drive, there's not much wear/tear on the rear as their just rolling along (except for braking)
 
I had plenty of reservations about installing H&Rs on my CX-5 and waited 18 months while others here acted as guinea pigs for this mod. After sorting through all the posts I bit the bullet about 18 months ago (because I just couldn't stand the ridiculous stance of the stock suspension another day!) and have not regretted it. The car looks much more "planted" 1.5" lower and it does handle better with more negative camber. That said, the news is not all good. Here's what you can expect. First off, the ride will be stiffer, especially over rough or broken pavement. On smooth freeways (without expansion joints) you won't notice much difference. After a while, you notice it less, but you will find yourself being extra diligent avoiding potholes. Without changing any suspension components (as I have not yet done), you'll probably be able to align both front and rear to factory spec, but just barely. The net result will be at or slightly outside the limit on negative camber, more so in the rear than the front. Toe will be fine. And you will have some inside shoulder wear . It won't be horrible and you can keep it even by religiously rotating the tires every 5k miles as I have. This is the biggest downside, IMO. I am now approaching 31k miles and will have to replace the OE Yokohamas by 35k if not sooner (they are also making more noise now that they are worn and the inside wear is no doubt contributing to that situation.
So the right way to go about this is to replace the rear camber arms http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/sh...ct_info&cPath=333_341_452_471&products_id=930 as well as installing SPC camber bolts http://www.spcalignment.com/compone...l=CX-5&year=2013 - 2016&from=USAFrom&to=USATo. There are more expensive alternatives to the latter, but for my money the SPC bolts will get the job done for very little $$. My plan, at this point, is to install the front bolts when I change my tires which will allow me to dial back the negative camber on the front end and even out tire wear (through diligent rotation) even more without going through the nosebleed and expense of replacing the rear arms. Let me know if you need any more info.
 
Last edited:
JBR has camber arms? I didn't know that.
I have modified the original lateral links, adding adjusters to them. It cost me half, then those camber arms.
 
JBR has camber arms? I didn't know that.
I have modified the original lateral links, adding adjusters to them. It cost me half, then those camber arms.

You also have access to a machine shop lol, and can DIY.
 
You don't really need a machine shop, for what I did. The only thing needed machining, the bungs diameter were slightly bigger diameter, then the tubes(lateral link) ID(~.010-.015 thou.)
Maybe it would have been OK by hammering them in, but since I can machine it, why not.
I have just mentioned my way, to be out there, for others to consider.
 
You don't really need a machine shop, for what I did. The only thing needed machining, the bungs diameter were slightly bigger diameter, then the tubes(lateral link) ID(~.010-.015 thou.)
Maybe it would have been OK by hammering them in, but since I can machine it, why not.
I have just mentioned my way, to be out there, for others to consider.

I have h&r springs and considering same mod.

Do you have post pics of the lateral links and how it works?
 
Last edited:
I've just bought a used 2016 GT AWD. My first purchase is going to be the H&R springs. I will run the stock rims until I need new tires....so, aside from the alignment question being discussed here, should I get spacers to get the right stance, and if so, what size without rubbing? I know I have seen recommendations on spacer size for front and rear but I just can't find it any more. Also, is there a single place that I can source these things?

I tried asking Rodrigo from Font but haven't gotten a response back from him in a few days.
 
I don't know what the camber curve is like for the rear suspension of CX-5's, but I can tell you that with McPherson front struts, you won't have that much negative camber after lowering, especially only on a 1.5" drop. Get a lifetime alignment at Firestone, get it aligned every year (or more), and rotate tires every 5K miles, and you'll be fine.

After driving my Integra lowered for 12 years, running in the -2 to -3 range (no camber kits, toe adjusted only), I can tell you that out-of-spec toe wears out tires far faster than a little bit of negative camber.

Also, lower profile tires are more susceptible to inner shoulder wear with negative camber than tires with taller sidewalls, like the stock 225/65-17 tires.
 
I have h&r springs and considering same mod.

Do you have post pics of the lateral links and how it works?
20150128_171758.jpg20150128_171811.jpg20150126_075616.jpg
attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php



By adjusting these together, with the rear toe adjusters, you can bring in, or out the bottom of the wheel.
The camber arm, adjusts the top part of the wheel. It pushes it out, if you have negative camber. Wheel gets closer to the fender.
This idea, it was given to me, by K-Mac's owner.
http://www.k-mac.com/
He told me that this way is better because you won't have scraping issues, if you bring out to much the top part of the wheel. That is, with camber arm adjustment.
Arms are original Mazda parts ~$45/each, ALL56196- 5/8 double adjusters ~ $13/each, 5/8 - 18 RIGHT/LEFT Handed 1.00 OD. X .095 WALL Tube WELD TUBING BUNGS- $26/4 PCS.
All purchased from Ebay. Some old guy, with good reviews on Yelp(ex JPL welder) welded all four of them, for $20.
If I remember correctly, I had to cut out 2-1/4" from the arm's length.
By the way, I have CS springs, you may not need this setup, with H&R.
 
Last edited:
Yikes, I would have serious reservations about using modified OEM parts like that, which have likely had no stress or strength testing whatsoever performed on them.

The other problem with adjustable arms like that is the potential to have them set to unequal lengths on each side. This can lead to odd handling characteristics that are different based on which way the car is turning. Ideally you need to be very careful to get both arms set equally on both sides, even if that means the alignment readings are not exactly the same on each side.
 
Yikes, I would have serious reservations about using modified OEM parts like that, which have likely had no stress or strength testing whatsoever performed on them.
Amen! Although he modified aftermarket, not OEM parts, the same holds true.
 
The arms are OEM. What I have put in there, are much stronger then the tube itself.
Believe me, I turn hard as hell and I did not have any issues yet. I push the gas, after I have reached half of the corner, not braking. I have also 20" wheels.
I have drove the car for well over a year now, since I have made the modification and no issues yet.
 
The arms are OEM. What I have put in there, are much stronger then the tube itself.
Believe me, I turn hard as hell and I did not have any issues yet. I push the gas, after I have reached half of the corner, not braking. I have also 20" wheels.
I have drove the car for well over a year now, since I have made the modification and no issues yet.
OK, you've totally lost me. How could those arms be OE when we all know rear camber arms for the CX-5 at "C"-shaped as are all the replacement arms that are out there?
 
These are not the camber arms. These are at the bottom and they are called lateral links. Toe adjusters are at the rear of the wheel and these are at the front of the wheel.
The camber arm, is at the top of the wheel.
 
These are not the camber arms. These are at the bottom and they are called lateral links. Toe adjusters are at the rear of the wheel and these are at the front of the wheel.
The camber arm, is at the top of the wheel.

See what I deal with.
 
Yikes, I would have serious reservations about using modified OEM parts like that, which have likely had no stress or strength testing whatsoever performed on them.

The other problem with adjustable arms like that is the potential to have them set to unequal lengths on each side. This can lead to odd handling characteristics that are different based on which way the car is turning. Ideally you need to be very careful to get both arms set equally on both sides, even if that means the alignment readings are not exactly the same on each side.

From a professional/quality fabricator I wouldn't be scared. People make custom tubular subframe and control arms/links for the same reasons and usually those are for track cars. Personally, I wouldn't because the part I needed was available off the shelf, but when I needed longer endlinks I had a custom part made to interface with my Autoexe Heim joints.
 
Back