Looking to purchase MZ5 and join the community!
- Thread starter jinhyokim
- Start date
- :
- 2010 Mazda5 GT
There was a just a thread posted a couple weeks ago that addresses some of your questions:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123855013-On-the-market-for-a-2012-any-buyers-tips
I would start with with KBB and Edmunds TMV as a base for pricing.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123855013-On-the-market-for-a-2012-any-buyers-tips
I would start with with KBB and Edmunds TMV as a base for pricing.
Prices very by market, hard to go by forum.
I'd sell you mine 2012 for $10000k with half that millage but va is a bit far from ca although import is easy
If you're serious msg me. Because I am
Here are some of the issues I've seen on this forum:
1) suspension wearing out - specifically, the older sway bar bushings wearout and cause an squeaking noise - other people have reported other rubber bits wearing out. The struts and shocks also seem to wear fairly fast.
2) Rust - seems to be a Mazda problem - I don't have this issue in California
3) Transmission - change your fluid often - original transmission fluid seems to wear out ~30-40k miles and can lead to other problems
4) Tires wear out fast - specifically, some have issues with uneven wear on the rear due to the factory camber settings (the inner part of the tires wear before the outer
5) Brakes - some experience fast brake wear on front brakes with vibration.
Good luck, I don't think you can beat the Mazda 5 for a small family car.
US Dollar
I actually noticed a vibration in the brakes during my test drives as well. That is curious....is it just the brand of pad/rotor? Or is it a flaw in the design.
I'm watching for rust and those suspension bits as well. Thanks for the great post! You were super helpful!
If you believe this http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths, vibration is caused by pad deposits on the brake disk and can be removed by sanding the disks as long as cementite hasn't formed. Resurfacing the disks will also remove the deposits as well as replacing them which others have done - see other threads in the forums.
Ok, so i test drove the 5spd and it was really really fun! New Michelin tires. Seems really clean inside out. No rust. But wow it was empty inside. No second row under seat cup holder thing that comes out of the seat, no rear vents.
Good thing was. NO RUST at all.
He was asking 4250 cash.
Should i pull the trigger? Help me out guys.
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That's not the OE gearshift. Looks like its from the Miata maybe? Perhaps it was an enthusiast's car and perhaps was cared for. 07s aren't as bad as 06s but they do have some 1st year/production hiccups. Mostly it will probably be plastics and electrics. Be more afraid of age than mileage on these cars. And get them up in the air. My plastic undersides and heat shields all began falling apart, and I only have 84K on an 06. Its more of a bother than anything else, except that the heat shield does finally rest right on the downpipe and resonator, and mine smoked a little bit.
But otherwise, good cars, and the MT is a great reliable powertrain.
Oh, almost forgot, all the motor mounts are DIY jobs, and you WILL end up doing all 3 while you own a used one.
Lastly, if you don't drive a lot of freeway, or at least high speeds in inclement weather or twitchy congestion, zero out the toe on the rears, it takes care of the inside tire wear, as long as rotations are done religiously.
But otherwise, good cars, and the MT is a great reliable powertrain.
Oh, almost forgot, all the motor mounts are DIY jobs, and you WILL end up doing all 3 while you own a used one.
Lastly, if you don't drive a lot of freeway, or at least high speeds in inclement weather or twitchy congestion, zero out the toe on the rears, it takes care of the inside tire wear, as long as rotations are done religiously.
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That's interesting about the shiftknob. Makes me wonder what other "mods" this car has, although i didnt see anything.
I'm wondering if its worth looking around longer for a 2008up.
What sort of major engine maintanance should i be asking sellers?
Thanks
The MT is good. The MZR is good. Except for the T-stat, I have had no powertrain probs at all. Seriously, it all comes down to motor mounts (cheap), plastics and electronics. Its been very reliable otherwise.
When I was looking to buy in 07/08 I purposely bought an '08 for a few reasons.
1. Most important if you live in a warm climate: REAR AIR/FAN control.
2. Standard climate control across the whole range.
3. No abnormal tire wear issues. Stick with Yokahama 580's.
4. Built in Aux connection
6. A lot of the bugs in the 06/07 had been worked out by then.
7. Dash/Instrumentation lighting is better.
8. I'm not sure if the fold out tray is standard on the Sport model in the 06/07 cars.
9. Personal taste: I think the front and rear lights are better integrated into the body
I've done one rear trans mount(warranty), a T-stat, one set of shocks/struts, one set of pads all the way around(rear rotors are still original), steering pump(recalled), ABS pump/brake master(probably went due to the brake fluid not being serviced), a visor clip(warranty), that's about it(other than maintenance) in 160k.
1. Most important if you live in a warm climate: REAR AIR/FAN control.
2. Standard climate control across the whole range.
3. No abnormal tire wear issues. Stick with Yokahama 580's.
4. Built in Aux connection
6. A lot of the bugs in the 06/07 had been worked out by then.
7. Dash/Instrumentation lighting is better.
8. I'm not sure if the fold out tray is standard on the Sport model in the 06/07 cars.
9. Personal taste: I think the front and rear lights are better integrated into the body
I've done one rear trans mount(warranty), a T-stat, one set of shocks/struts, one set of pads all the way around(rear rotors are still original), steering pump(recalled), ABS pump/brake master(probably went due to the brake fluid not being serviced), a visor clip(warranty), that's about it(other than maintenance) in 160k.
got it! loving it so far. Here are a few issues ive seen already:
1. noticed a slight vibration while braking on the hwy, although the pads and rotors seem to be in good shape with lots of life.
2. auto down feature glitches on the drivers side. When holding it down it comes down about a half an inch, then resumes going down all the way.
3. driver side heating seat switch light seems to be broken. But the heated seats work just fine.
1. noticed a slight vibration while braking on the hwy, although the pads and rotors seem to be in good shape with lots of life.
2. auto down feature glitches on the drivers side. When holding it down it comes down about a half an inch, then resumes going down all the way.
3. driver side heating seat switch light seems to be broken. But the heated seats work just fine.
Regarding the vibration, the rotors on these cars warp pretty easily. Either live with the vibration or see if they are machinable(if there is enough metal left). I've had mine machined before and it goes away for a while, then it comes back. I'm still on my original rotors in the rear and have only changed the fronts once.
Sounds like a bad sensor on the window.
I wouldn't worry about the light on the seat switch.
Congrats on the purchase.
Sounds like a bad sensor on the window.
I wouldn't worry about the light on the seat switch.
Congrats on the purchase.
