what are ways to make CX-5 ride softer?

Some people just like the Toyota Corolla or Honda CRV feeling of a dead unresponsive car. They like the soft floating and unresponsiveness of the suspension. For them, the Mazda is not the right choice since it is a driver car and has road feedback.
 
Some people just like the Toyota Corolla or Honda CRV feeling of a dead unresponsive car. They like the soft floating and unresponsiveness of the suspension. For them, the Mazda is not the right choice since it is a driver car and has road feedback.

+1. It really is all it comes down too.
 
Hello all, new guy here.After 2 + years decided to join and post.I've learned alot and may be able to contribute occasionally.
Anyway, regarding ride quality,after purchasing my 2014 cx-5 touring fwd i had second thoughts because it just rode too hard sometimes.After 3000 miles I got rid of the stock yoko's and put on General Altimax rt-43 H rated tires.Ride got alot more comfortable but lost some handling response and leaned a little more in the turns.No big deal to me.I run them no less than 36 psi front and 35 psi rear.

The second improvement in ride comfort came when I complained to the dealer about a groaning/creaking sound when braking firmly especially in wet weather.Sure enough there is a TSB and they upgraded my front lower control arm bushings.I'm guessing these are the softer bushings Mazda started putting in the 2015 models at some point.The back still has the original (firmer?) suspension bushings but I don't have rear passengers so I don't know how it rides back there.
If you're running the stock 17" geolandar tires you might consider a better riding tire.I do mostly in town driving and in the first 2000 miles my yoko's wore 2/32" off in front and 1/32" in rear and get this: 1000 of the 2000 miles was highway driving.So I didn't feel too bad about getting rid of lousy riding lousy wearing tires
Didn't mean to get too windy here but wanted to give you my experience cheers, Jmaz

I had the same TSB performed. I think the bushings are a 2016 MY fix - I definitely had a 2015 loaner with the same groan. Don't think it softened the ride any, although it was a bit tighter handling after the procedure. That could be because they tightened everything up too.
 
At first I found the ride quite stiff but after a few days got used to it. Now I quite like it. I drove a 2016 RAV4 a few days ago and hated the numb ride.
 
In that case, I do rather sell this car .....

Rather pointedly, the taughtly tuned suspension for responsive handling is one of Mazda's selling points. I'm curious what leads someone to buy car if that riding dynamics is so unpalatable. (dunno)
 
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That is true, you could reduce your wheel size and add a tire with a larger sidewall to it.

When selecting that tall tire be sure to avoid P-Metric radials. That way you can reduce tire pressure to the mid 20 PSI range just like they used in the 70's. Along with it you give up a few points in gas mileage but you'll also get to experience that vague handling in the curvy's American sedans of the era were so famous for. But it'll be a lot softer going over the bumps and pot holes. :dodgy:
 
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When selecting that tall tire be sure to avoid P-Metric radials. That way you can reduce tire pressure to the mid 20 PSI range just like they used in the 70's. Along with it you give up a few points in gas mileage but you'll also get to experience that vague handling in the curvy's American sedans of the era were so famous for. But it'll be a lot softer going over the bumps and pot holes. :dodgy:

20 psi, isn't it too low for this tire? Right now I have 34 for front tires and 33 for rear tires, I think I might drop front to 32 and rear to 31 but someone said that will cost tire wear more.
 
20 psi, isn't it too low for this tire? Right now I have 34 for front tires and 33 for rear tires, I think I might drop front to 32 and rear to 31 but someone said that will cost tire wear more.
The maximum inflation pressure on those old "P-Metric" US standard tires are only at 35 psi. The factory spec on my 98' Honda CR-V is at 26 psi. With current tires having maximum inflation pressure at 51 psi, I have to keep the tire pressure at 35 psi on CR-V to have an even wear.

Your 17" OEM Yoko tires have maximum inflation pressure at 44 psi. The factory spec is 34 psi cold for all four tires. Don't drop too much tire pressure below factory spec otherwise you not only lose gas mileage but also have the risk of tire blowup as too much heat would be generated due to low tire pressure. Wearing more on the outer edge of the tread is a given with low tire pressure.
 
20 psi, isn't it too low for this tire? Right now I have 34 for front tires and 33 for rear tires, I think I might drop front to 32 and rear to 31 but someone said that will cost tire wear more.

20 PSI would definitely be way too low for stock CX-5 tires, they're design- optimized for low fuel consumption and that demands high pressures, it's even way too low for those high-profile tires of the 70's/80's/90's.

Lowering the pressure (no further than you suggest, to 32/31) probably won't make the tires wear faster but they will wear differently and that gas mileage will come down a couple hundredths. More importantly: it will affect handling as the sidewall will be able to flex more in corners and it will lower your GVWR so be extra careful about carrying 4 passengers and luggage. You only get the advertised GVWR when running on tires with the same load rating, aired up to data plate specification.
 
Cheapest route would probably be to raise the car 1 inch with springs. I'm (guessing) the stock shocks should be able to withstand a 1 inch drop so why not a 1 inch raise?
 
Cheapest route would probably be to raise the car 1 inch with springs. I'm (guessing) the stock shocks should be able to withstand a 1 inch drop so why not a 1 inch raise?

Wouldn't putting in the taller spring actually mean the spring would be firmer, and therefore a harsher ride? At any rate, raising it on the suspension while doing nothing for wheel travel means the suspension would top rather frequently with a light load, which is most of the time.

Back in the day you could change shock absorbers to firm up wheel control, improving handling on bumpy curves and braking. But that also made a harsher ride: maybe someone sells struts calibrated softer that would fit the CX-5?
 
Wouldn't putting in the taller spring actually mean the spring would be firmer, and therefore a harsher ride? At any rate, raising it on the suspension while doing nothing for wheel travel means the suspension would top rather frequently with a light load, which is most of the time.

Back in the day you could change shock absorbers to firm up wheel control, improving handling on bumpy curves and braking. But that also made a harsher ride: maybe someone sells struts calibrated softer that would fit the CX-5?

I think you're right in terms of getting a softer ride. Perhaps then aftermarket shocks with stock springs could do the trick. I would inquire with some of the "off-road performance" shops in my area if going that route.
 
how about wheel spacers, or better yet, wheels with a larger offset?
As you push the wheels out further, you increase the effective length of the suspension arm which has the effect of making the ride a little softer.
As another plus, your CX-5 will look better on the road.
 
All of this to change the driving/handling dynamics Mazda engineers worked so hard to get. Larger sidewalls, changing spring set ups, etc. are not going to give this vehicle what the original poster wants. Before buying I tried different levels of CX-5 with different wheel sizes (which changed the sidewall) and the difference in ride was negligible. It's the nature of the CX-5 to be firm and that has been well documented in reviews. It's the reason I chose mine over Toyota, Honda, etc. If you don't like it, or can't get used to it, anything short of major surgery isn't going to change it. Switching to a competitor with softer suspension and more comfortable ride may be the way to go.
 
Mazda is known for their excellent steering and handling performance. Yes, you will feel more bumps, but no other SUV in its class is more fun to drive. It's amazing how you can wip this thing into curves, and it tracks them like it's on rails. Mazda's are not built or marketed as soft floating drink a lot of coffee to stay awake and drive vehicles.
 
A long time ago, I installed these on a nice car. Owner wanted a comfortable but sporty ride and he seemed to like it. It has adjustable dampening so it may help in your situation. Lot of adjustments. It's an option if you want to go aftermarket.

http://www.tein.com/products/flex_a.html

Here is this one guy's opinion with them on a FRS:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81829

Nevermind, tein doesnt make one for the CX-5 yet according to their website. Bummer.
 
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When I drive my car over some bump, the car just like act very aggressive even when I brake ahead. Also when I make a turn to right, the rear seems so stiff, that make my rear passanger really uncomfortable. I checked my tire PSI, I adjusted them all to 34 PSI which exactly as the Mazda recommend, but I don't think it has anything to do with it. My tires still have very good life on it, so I don't think I will replace it soon, unless I found someway to sell them.

Mine is not stiff enough. Or, just barely is.

Let's call stiff when the suspension doesn't move much/far over a bump or dip.

Let's call harsh the jarring some suspensions give if you run over a manhole cover that sticks up above the pavement. This harshness is caused by too much high speed (high frequency) damping.

Do you think your CX is too harsh? If that's it, you can lower air pressure in the tires, buy tires that have less stiff sidewalls (including changing to 16" or 17" wheels and taller tires) or buy adjustable shocks, or maybe shocks with less high speed damping to reduce harshness. Each option costs more $$$$.
 
OP:

Your post does beg the question why did you buy the CX-5 if the ride was too harsh for your liking. All of the other CUV's we drove were plush compared to the Mazda so surely you drove at least one that was more to your liking at least comfy wise. Any of them would be.

I would ask you to reconsider your views before you fool with the tires, struts, springs, whatever. Mazda's claim to fame is handling and the drive, you know Zoom Zoom. The ride you're feeling is a FEATURE of your CX-5 not a fault. That is why CX-5 buyers own a CX-5. The silly car just flat out handles great for a top heavy family car CUV! It is FUN to drive and there isn't any comparison in the market sector. Simply none.

If you can't get beyond that then there's a dozen or more plush and comfy options waiting for you. The CX-5 resale value is outstanding so you shouldn't be behind to much on an outright sell or trade in.

Bottom line is you should be happy. If it's not a CX-5 but an Escape, or RAV4, or Santa Fe then that's cool. They're all good rigs nowadays. You should be happy with your purchase.
 
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OP:

Your post does beg the question why did you buy the CX-5 if the ride was too harsh for your liking. All of the other CUV's we drove were plush compared to the Mazda so surely you drove at least one that was more to your liking at least comfy wise. Any of them would be.

I would ask you to reconsider your views before you fool with the tires, struts, springs, whatever. Mazda's claim to fame is handling and the drive, you know Zoom Zoom. The ride you're feeling is a FEATURE of your CX-5 not a fault. That is why CX-5 buyers own a CX-5. The silly car just flat out handles great for a top heavy family car CUV! It is FUN to drive and there isn't any comparison in the market sector. Simply none.

If you can't get beyond that then there's a dozen or more plush and comfy options waiting for you. The CX-5 resale value is outstanding so you shouldn't be behind to much on an outright sell or trade in.

Bottom line is you should be happy. If it's not a CX-5 but an Escape, or RAV4, or Santa Fe then that's cool. They're all good rigs nowadays. You should be happy with your purchase.

I didn't test drive cx-5 at all. I have a 2013 Mazda 6, I like the handling and quieter cabinet noise, so I thought they will be probably same driving experience. CX-5 wasn't my top choice at first, we were suppose to sign off all document for a 2015 Honda CR-V at that time, but the dealership they add extra $500 option fees without telling us(They said is Honda required for 0 ARP or something), when we found out that, we cancel the deal. Then we end with going to Mazda dealership, cx-5 is very good looking, and it looks very premium. Seats are fine, soft dash, Bluetooth everything. I was going to test drive, but something come up then I have to go. The dealership give me a very good deal at that time, we checked online OTD$26,000(Include TAX, FEES, everything) for a cx5 touring in California is very good price. Then I sign the paper, all purchase took us two hours then I just drive it home. Now, I am not going to change anything besides drop tire psi to 33 because I am thinking about selling it for a sedan next year or so, I like the good visibility of SUV but I really like a faster sedan car. Maybe a Lexus IS ,BMW 3 series, or Audi A4.
 
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...Now, I am not going to change anything besides drop tire psi to 33 because I am thinking about selling it for a sedan next year or so, I like the good visibility of SUV but I really like a faster sedan car. Maybe a Lexus IS ,BMW 3 series, or Audi A4.

Sounds like a good plan. You'll get into something you like and someone well get your carefully-used, unfooled with CX-5.
 
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