Conservative tune? What are your mods? Are you the original owner? I have a theory, but need more information.
I recall some posts that you are running HT and an intake. Any other changes?
I'm at 126,000 miles on my '08. Original clutch and drivetrain, mods below. No problems. Push the car hard, but take care of it.
What often bends rods is lugging the engine and then going wide open throttle from below 3,000 rpm, especially below 2,500 rpm. High torque at low rpm presses the piston pin against the rod at the wrist for a longer moment of time per revolution than at higher rpm. Our stock rods don't like that. They tend to bend up high just below the pin.
A failing electronic boost control solenoid could allow excessively high boost, too, or a crack in the small hoses to and from it. I datalog, but run a real time manual boost gauge just to know for sure that the electronics are not getting fooled.
With HT you must use the correct intake choice. That determines the calibration of your MAF sensor. Get that wrong and your ECU is not receiving accurate data. Normally that would not affect low rpm boost, though. It could have a cumulative effect due to high exhaust gas temps in the combustion chamber under high load.
Many engines do fail under light load, normal driving, due to progressive effect of other conditions. Sort of a "straw breaking the camel's back" thing.
There are other possibilities. Do you have any recent data logs from before the pedal vibration?
Describe the vibration. Do you feel it only with the clutch completely released and touching the pedal, or can you feel it as the clutch grabs? Does it still vibrate with the pedal fully depressed?
I recommend against continuing to drive the car until it is determined whether this is a bent rod, or perhaps a clutch, flywheel, pressure plate situation or something else. You do not want to ventillate your block.
