Lube those caliper bolt pins!

MikeM. said:
The proper way to measure brake temperature is with a non-contact IR thermometer like all racing teams use. I have a professional quality one that was about $380 6 years ago. When I first heard the CX-5 used brake force distribution to transfer more of the braking force to the rear under light acceleration I tested it out. First I checked that both disks were the same temperature (ambient) and then I drove about a mile making sure to only use light brake applications. This was a couple of years ago and I don't remember the specific temperature differential, but the rears were indeed considerably warmer.

When conducting this test, it's important to be on clean dry pavement because the CX-5 can detect the presence of rain slickened pavement and will automatically send more braking force to the front. The BFD also applied more force to the rear at the initial brake initiation because weight hasn't transferred to the front yet. This initial stronger pulse to the rear helps settle the chassis (lowers the front ride height slightly and momentarily in a gentle manner) and this reduces some of the negative effects of brake dive when the front brakes are applied more strongly. Said another way, it pre-loads the front suspension slightly to reduce the momentum of brake dive.

Yes Anchorman, the BFD really does distribute more braking to the rear wheels when it's advantageous to do so. I've measured it. Mazda says it does it. You, inexplicably deny it. (spin)
Click to expand...

Not like you to rubbish somebody’s post Mike. I’ve got a calibrated temp gun and will try this test of yours when my car comes in a couple of weeks. In the meantime I’ve got to figure out how all the rear brake dust gets to my front wheels on this CX-3.
 
I have only ever put a light coating of grease on my caliper pins. My Infiniti is the only vehicle that this has been a service item for.
 
Anchorman said:
They didn’t. Measure the temps after very light braking. Mind your fingers!
Click to expand...

DdmKnzI.png


sure.. the rear brake pressure is never greater than the front, but it is equal under light braking.
The rear rotors are are marginally larger, so under light brake application, slightly more stopping occurs in the rear.

This fact combined with the smaller and thinner pads in the rear means that someone who always stops slowly will need to change the rear pads well before the fronts.
 
Last edited:
piotrek91 said:
DdmKnzI.png


sure.. the rear brake pressure is never greater than the front, but it is equal under light braking.
The rear rotors are are marginally larger, so under light brake application, slightly more stopping occurs in the rear.

This fact combined with the smaller and thinner pads in the rear means that someone who always stops slowly will need to change the rear pads well before the fronts.
Click to expand...

Oh wow, where did you find this? Is this in service highlights?
 
CX5_Pete said:
Oh wow, where did you find this? Is this in service highlights?
Click to expand...
piotrek91 is one of the very few guys here would pull out his "secret weapons" whenever he feels like it... :)
 
Anchorman said:
Not like you to rubbish somebody’s post Mike.
Click to expand...

Rubbish somebody's post? I don't know how I could have got the truth across more politely without "rubbishing" your post. That's a very British word that is not used very commonly here so maybe I don't understand the finer shades of it's meaning.

I’ve got a calibrated temp gun and will try this test of yours when my car comes in a couple of weeks. In the meantime I’ve got to figure out how all the rear brake dust gets to my front wheels on this CX-3.
Click to expand...

Under hard braking there is considerably more braking force on the front wheels (the chart posted by piotek doesn't illustrate this fact) so driving style differences will wear the fronts and rears out at different rates.

Brake dust deposits on the wheels is probably not an accurate indicator of the division of braking force between the front and rear wheels because the front and rear wheels have different airflow and the dust could travel in different directions. If the back of the vehicle is more lightly loaded than the front, the under-fairings are likely higher in the rear than the front. This would cause a low pressure area to develop under the rear of the vehicle which would tend to draw air through the wheels from the outside to the inside (and any brake dust present with it). On the other hand, there is likely a higher pressure under the front of the car which would push brake dust from the brakes through the wheel spokes.
 
yrwei52 said:
This one contains moly and seems more suitable for anti-rattle brake grease. I'd try this Sil-Glyde Silicone Lubricating Compound for those pins recommended by Skorpio:
Click to expand...

I've used the CRC brand exactly like the one you post, with good results also.
 
Last edited:
Just an extra reassurance from CRC...

"Thank you for your interest in CRC products. Yes the P/N 05351 Synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease is designed for use on the brake caliper pins"

Regards,

CRC Technical Support
Phone: 800-521-3168
Email: techservice@crcindustries.com"
 
I just got done rotating tires and lubing caliper pins. Front pin lube was minimal to seemingly almost none on one pin. The rears had well lubed upper pins but the lowers were fairly minimal like the front.

This vehicle will be a cakewalk changing pads and rotors in the future.

At 22K miles my rears brake pads are showing 7.4mm and fronts pads are at 9.8mm. FSM shows 2 mm as minimum.

Anyone know depth of new pads? I don't see that in FSM. I'm suspecting something like 12mm on fronts and 8mm on rear.
 
Over the weekend, I swapped the winter tires for the summers. I pressure wash the undercarriage, trying to get all that winter crud out of there. At the same time, let's check the brakes out. I'm at 33,000kms (20,460 mile), and they look great. Didn't do any measuring of the pads, like Kedi, but they all look equal with lots of wear left. Calipers looked good. Removed all the pins and they all had grease, re-lubed pins and reinstalled. Pretty simple job for peace of mind. Well at least the brakes are working properly and see no reason why they won't last for a long time.
 
Mine seemed to have lots of life left in them and are wearing evenly as well. I forgot to add that I re-lubed mine as well.
 
Last edited:
Kedis82ZE8 said:
I just got done rotating tires and lubing caliper pins. Front pin lube was minimal to seemingly almost none on one pin. The rears had well lubed upper pins but the lowers were fairly minimal like the front.
This vehicle will be a cakewalk changing pads and rotors in the future.
Click to expand...
Looks like I need to check those caliper pins whenever I have time. I assume you didn't take the pads out when you removing the caliper pins? Do you need to push the pads back a little to remove the pins? If we need to push back the pads, we might need to turn the piston for the rear one to put the pads back?
 
Hi,
Can some one tell me if these brake pins needs to be lubed every year? Would it be safe to lube every 2 years? Thanks
 
CX5BC said:
Hi,
Can some one tell me if these brake pins needs to be lubed every year? Would it be safe to lube every 2 years? Thanks
Click to expand...

Once they are properly lubed with synthetic lube, you are good until the brakes need to be replaced.
 
MikeM. said:
Rubbish somebody's post? I don't know how I could have got the truth across more politely without "rubbishing" your post. That's a very British word that is not used very commonly here so maybe I don't understand the finer shades of it's meaning.



Under hard braking there is considerably more braking force on the front wheels (the chart posted by piotek doesn't illustrate this fact) so driving style differences will wear the fronts and rears out at different rates.

Brake dust deposits on the wheels is probably not an accurate indicator of the division of braking force between the front and rear wheels because the front and rear wheels have different airflow and the dust could travel in different directions. If the back of the vehicle is more lightly loaded than the front, the under-fairings are likely higher in the rear than the front. This would cause a low pressure area to develop under the rear of the vehicle which would tend to draw air through the wheels from the outside to the inside (and any brake dust present with it). On the other hand, there is likely a higher pressure under the front of the car which would push brake dust from the brakes through the wheel spokes.
Click to expand...
Sometimes you make perfect sense, sometimes I can see what you are getting at and other times you talk utter piffle. It's OK to not know everything Mike.
 
I can't find my little tube of brake lube, I believe it was the Permatex Ultra Brake lube, the green stuff. Anyhow, I was searching around and many people on the internet have suggested to use silicone brake lube so as not the effect the rubber seals at all. I browsed Amazon and came across some Mazda Pure silicone Brake caliper lube, part #0000-77-XG3A. A little pricey but at least I know it's what mazda recommends to use so it should take all guess work out of the debate.
 
Ride92 said:
I can't find my little tube of brake lube, I believe it was the Permatex Ultra Brake lube, the green stuff. Anyhow, I was searching around and many people on the internet have suggested to use silicone brake lube so as not the effect the rubber seals at all. I browsed Amazon and came across some Mazda Pure silicone Brake caliper lube, part #0000-77-XG3A. A little pricey but at least I know it's what mazda recommends to use so it should take all guess work out of the debate.
Click to expand...
Nice find
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Replacing my CX-5 front brake rotors
Replies
8
Views
2K
madar
M
W
What's involved in lubing the slider pins?
Replies
1
Views
932
theblooms
theblooms
C
2016 CX-5 Rear Caliper TSB
Replies
10
Views
2K
skid00skid0
S

Latest posts

Back