Anyone have experience with a rear sway bar?

ColtX-5 · Feb 4, 2016

Chris_Top_Her said:
No i don't need or want understeer.. I can control that with engine rpms/gear.. if i need??? understeer ( or am indifferent)ill stay in a high gear. When I really want to get a corner or accelerate through it, without lame understeer pulling me out, I drop a gear (or 2) and in combination with my sway bar/suspension mods make the best of my AWD i paid a premium for.. sway bars are often not changed in pairs as the rear is usually enough to correct the understeer some enthusiasts don't want. Most people dont even touch the front. I bought one (not installed yet) mainly because my total suspension mods have preloaded the skinny oem front sway bar so it is less effective. Like you said its about fine tuning; ive tuned out most undesirable (for me) body roll and thats pretty much the weak link right now.

I asked the OP if he need less understeer because with my motorcycle based cornering style I don't get much understeer. But, don't forget, smaller stabilizer bars give higher max cornering traction (they try to lift the inside wheel).

(thumb)

Chris_Top_Her · Feb 4, 2016

Rear sway 19.4mm/.76" at the bushing and 19.2mm/.75" at the center So you'd grab a 19mm bushing. The oem bushing is held at a specific angle (and very snug) vs being able to swing it and it might require a vice to remove it.

MikeM. · Feb 7, 2016

Chris_Top_Her said:
Rear sway 19.4mm/.76" at the bushing and 19.2mm/.75" at the center So you'd grab a 19mm bushing. The oem bushing is held at a specific angle (and very snug) vs being able to swing it and it might require a vice to remove it.

Can you explain your last sentence in more detail? I was under the impression there would be no tension on the bushings once the end-links were disconnected.

Also, how is a 19.4mm bar going to fit inside a 19mm bushing?

Chris_Top_Her · Feb 7, 2016

I meant a 20mm bushing. And the oem bar is under a lot of tension in the bushing. Even once removed you'd be very hard pressed to try to swivel it without a vice. I.e it is basically in a fixed position. Maybe yours is more loose considering the mileage but I'd doubt it. Thats partially what I was referring to with the preloading on the bar since even though you may have adjustable links, the bar is basically fixed at a certain angle unable to swing

16cx-5 · Feb 11, 2016

Chris_Top_Her said:
I haven't measured it yet, it's late and the bar is in the shed. I'll get it tomorrow. I based those numbers off of parts listed for the CX-5. Also I'll double check (because I still have them) but I'm pretty sure the energy suspension bushings are the same form factor as OEM, as the OEM bushing is pretty much identical.

if you do decide to do anything with the sway bar/bracket.. get ready for this

Chris which exhaust is that? Sorry went off topic a minute. I'm wondering if anyone makes a rear strut bar or if it's possible to make 1?

Chris_Top_Her · Feb 11, 2016

corksport exhaust. The tips were extended on mine though. I don't know of a rear strut bar for the cx-5 that bridges the inside mount for the rear strurs, but you can get a "floor brace" fro m auto exe and beat rush that bridges the gap in the spare well if you don't carry a spare

http://www.autoexe.co.jp/english/car/ke.html or japanparts.com for more stuff

chinq6t · Aug 3, 2016

Chris_Top_Her said:
I have a corksport rear sway bar which I am very happy with. I also have an Ultra Racing rear lower bar (suspension brace). I have not heard feedback from anyone using the megan or hardrace sway bars. I know of a guy who has a JBR rear sway (stock ride height) and he likes it. The cost of a sway bar is not expensive and the change it makes is very tangible. Personally I would lower first, H&R is a mild drop that will still give you a greater ride height than a mazda 6 and won't give you rubbing or bottoming out worries (and thats with 20" wheels). Personally I think the corksport is best value right now because it comes with billet brackets standard. When I bought mine it did not come with those and I spent about $100 on a set of hotchkiss brackets.

I think its like $220 which is not expensive by any means for a legitimate performance part.

Is your car awd? If so, did you install the rear sway bar yourself? If so, is it an easy diy on ramps?

Chris_Top_Her · Aug 3, 2016

chinq6t said:
Is your car awd? If so, did you install the rear sway bar yourself? If so, is it an easy diy on ramps?

Yes it's awd, and the video above is me installing (actually adding better brackets). For awd you really need to lower the rear sub. Unlink the sway bar links and then just 4 bolts hold the subframe. I always rent a lift of I need to do something with it. Otherwise, high jackstands and a jack to put tension on the subframe so you can remove the bolts will work. You will also need 1 jack under the rear diff to lower it (subframe) up and down. In the video I used the pole jack and moved the lift to lower raise the subframe.

Big_T · Aug 17, 2016

Chris_Top_Her said:
I always rent a lift of I need to do something with it.

I wish I had that service available here. How much do they charge per hour to rent the lift? Just curious. Thx

PatrickGSR94 · Aug 17, 2016

Big_T said:
I wish I had that service available here. How much do they charge per hour to rent the lift? Just curious. Thx

Yeah and where? I would love to be able to do that with things like clutch/axle changes on my Integra. My only problem would be that I wouldn't have all my tools available.

Chris_Top_Her · Aug 17, 2016

I go on base if you have access (you or a relative/friend) to a base/fort the larger ones usually have an "auto skills center". There are some commercial business that offer that too. Try googling rent a lift or DIY auto shops in (your city)

Anyone have experience with a rear sway bar?

ColtX-5

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MikeM.

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16cx-5

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chinq6t

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PatrickGSR94

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