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Masterkeosk

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2003.5 MSP
I recently bought a MSP 2003.5 as a project car. The previous owner removed the engine and tranny and it had been sitting like that for well over a year. All parts were inside the car. I'm looking at pretty much doing a full rebuild. I understand some of the internals are on the weaker side anyway. I have a friend helping with this who is very experienced but I basically have no experience when it comes to engines. Any and all help would be appreciated!!
 

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So far I purchased a used JDM long block and some k1 forged rods. Awaiting arrival on all. The original motor is missing pistons, rods, and a crankshaft. My plan is to install the long block so I can drive it around and find out whAt else needs to be replaced (struts, brakes etc.) in the meantime I'll have the original engine looked at to see if it's useable. If it is I'll build it and cannibalize the new motor for the crankshaft as the only ones I cou find were almost as much as a used motor.
Advice on parts would be great, pistons and clutches are kinda throwing me. I'm thinking wiseco pistons and an ACT sport clutch (current pressure plate and flywheel are really rusty) not sure if I can clean these up and use them or not.
If I use the existing motor the cylinders need bored up a size as they're rusty.
 
So far I purchased a used JDM long block and some k1 forged rods. Awaiting arrival on all. The original motor is missing pistons, rods, and a crankshaft. My plan is to install the long block so I can drive it around and find out whAt else needs to be replaced (struts, brakes etc.) in the meantime I'll have the original engine looked at to see if it's useable. If it is I'll build it and cannibalize the new motor for the crankshaft as the only ones I cou find were almost as much as a used motor.
Advice on parts would be great, pistons and clutches are kinda throwing me. I'm thinking wiseco pistons and an ACT sport clutch (current pressure plate and flywheel are really rusty) not sure if I can clean these up and use them or not.
If I use the existing motor the cylinders need bored up a size as they're rusty.

Make sure you find out what piston size you will get to match your bore
 
as far as ive read you shouldn't have to use the original block if you got a jdm one, but did you get a jdm p5 engine or fsze? the easiest thing is just to find a $700 p5 or somthing thats falling apart but runs well. pull the engine/trans out and just drop it into the msp. you can still build an engine on the stand but then you can take your time.
this also saves your butt in case other parts are missing.

those care are definitely out there. i got one that was rusted to s***, but they prev owner did all the maint on the motor lol... ran like a top but was falling apart. turbo charged it for 7 months with np and 315000km lol.
 
I bought a JDM FS-DE. Currently working on getting it into the MSP. It came from an automatic so I swapped the flywheel and put on the new clutch. Still a ton of work to do! I need to mate the tranny to the motor, re-install the axles, drop in the motor/tranny and hook it all up. The JDM block had a lot of it's cables cut so hopefully between that and everything that's in the MSP we won't have a terrible time hooking everything back up.
 
If anyone has wiring diagrams or a "this plug goes there" type of thing it would be super helpful!! Same with hoses!
 
just swap whatever sensors had cables cut. not a lot on a bare block you could be missing. interesting if the automatic engine works. some of the jdm sites ive seen said it wouldnt but if it does i might do that for my motor build. low milage jp prob better than junkyard pull locally.

refer to http://mazdaspd.com/ for documents and drawings.
 
The motor in my 2nd MSP came from an auto car, everything is the exact same engine-wise
 
Thanks Valk and hornsfan!! Do you guys know if joepmbc.com is still around at all? It doesn't look like it. After I drop in the built motor I'm going to start throwing power at it and will need some sort of boost control and some sort of tuning software and/or ECM. I've been reading through the forums and so far am pretty confused. That's still several months away for me though. Do you have recommendations on those?
 
Hornsfan did you have any trouble mating the auto motor to the manual transmission? Mine seems to be missing a necessary mount, I think it's called the main bearing plate or upper oil pan block? It's just below the starter motor.
 
For tuning I would get an SSAFC, easiest way to get rid of the hesitation. For a boost controller electronic is the way to go because it can open and turn the boost down if it gets too high and can be adjusted to hold boost more consistently and spike less. Joe P MBCs are among the best for the money if you want to go manual. The blocks are the same whether auto or manual, you have to swap the MBSP anyway because it has the turbo oil drain in it.
 
I was thinking about doing both manual and electronic just for redundancy and safety (I'm an electrical engineer) unless it's really unnecessary. I went to Joe P MBCs site and it seemed like it was down. It could have been an old link, I followed a link from the forum that was like five years old. Sorry for being a noob but what's MBSP?
 
No need. That is why you buy a 5 psi wga and ebc. It either works or it doesnt. But you could put a spring pressure valve between them as a failsafe. Maybe you could find one for 15-20 psi? 20psi spike for half a second wont kill your motor.
 
Oh. And consider asking pope about the new unichip. Hesells them for comparable priceto an ssftc. You get full engine control not just boost pressure mapping. Unichip has built in ebc. Just buy the module with the unichip. Pope will even map it for you to get you started and supplies wiring instructions.
It will cost more than an ssafc. But definitely better than an ssftc. Ssafc is a fine drop in for mild mods but never really ran right for me. The transition into the boost map just felt sloppy.
 
Thanks Valk, I'll do that!! I just found out I have bigger hurdles than I originally thought. I bought a FS-ZE motor not a SE. No idea how I overlooked it. I already bout wiseco pistons, 0.02" overbore 9.0:1 compression. I'm hoping I'll still be able to boost the ZE. Not sure how the internals are in the ZE though. I have a lot of new variables to figure out.
 
They are not. Forged rods much much more important than pistons. But k1 is affordable.
 
The ze also has a different manifold. It will work but you will have an extra electic bit yyou wont be able to connect. Good opportunity to delete the vtcs butterflies on your msp manifold.
 
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