Water pump replacement
- Thread starter David1206
- Start date
Jackie chan
Member
- :
- Pro5
Replacing the water pump itself is a very simple job. But you have to remove the timing belt in order to get to it. Which again, is not hard, but may take some time and maybe some tools you don't have if you've never done one.
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- Completely Stock P5
Strap wrench to hold the pulley and a 10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts. It should come right off.
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- Completely Stock P5
Yes. I'm talking about the water pump pulley. Use an impact on the crank pulley, and if it's seized on there you'll need a pulley puller to remove it via the two threaded holes on the pulley for this exact purpose.
Jackie chan
Member
- :
- Pro5
you can also put a breaker bar on the crank pulley, brace it against either the floor or whatever. I usually use a cinder block. And bump the starter to crack the bolt loose. Not the safest or most correct way to do it, but I've never had an issue doing it this way.
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- Mazda, Protege5 2002
timing belt and water pump replacement is worth the mechanic- they last over 150k... so you might only do it once in the lifetime of the car - assuming you drive the car to 300k.
unless you really enjoy the process..... then yes of course do it yourself
I paid $250.00 for labor to get it done.
unless you really enjoy the process..... then yes of course do it yourself
I paid $250.00 for labor to get it done.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
The green two are on the passenger side and purple on the driver's side, but they are all the same injector.
Timing correct? You aligned the I and e and not the dots?
The annoying part of all this for me was the timing cover bolts and scraping the shittly old gasket off with engine in the car. Whole process goes 10x faster with engine out lol
Why would you have had to pull injectors ect though?
The annoying part of all this for me was the timing cover bolts and scraping the shittly old gasket off with engine in the car. Whole process goes 10x faster with engine out lol
Why would you have had to pull injectors ect though?
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I had the head rebuilt so I took the top half apart. So when you line up the I and E are the dowels both up? The machine shop said they put it back together so all I had to do was just drop the head on and put it all back together. But as it is, the marks are limed up and not the letters.
I got all the plugs back together. There is one thin one by the compressor that I missed but Its been apart for almost 2 weeks so I didn't remember where they all went.
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- Completely Stock P5
The cam dowels should both be in the 12 o'clock position. The I and E must line up on each respective cam gear.
