No Start condition

well that is good news the injectors are firing.

Rule of thumb if you pull out the spark plug and the white ceramic insulator under the electrode is black and filthy the plug is trash. There is no cleaning the plug if it is fouled. The reason is because the damage has already been done and the resistance between the electrode and body is now too low:
http://ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp

Change them before you continue trouble shooting.
They're only about 3 bucks each for some number 6 or 7 v-power anyways, better safe than sorry.
 
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I am experiencing the same issue on a 2002 Protege DX. I bought the car for $400 in January, it would start and run when I received it but had an overheating issue and valve tick. I pulled an FS-DE engine taken from yet another protege, which ran but was burning oil so I rebuilt it with new bearings, gaskets, and rings and installed it in this DX. All parts are stock, I have done no modifications to the design intent. All connectors attached, it cranks and has compression of 190-191-190-190 @15 cranks, but won't start. Tested the following:

-Checked the ignition spark during night with the plug exposed, strong, blue.
-Fuel is almost 6mo old but still works since I used the fuel pump to unload half the tank into my P5 daily which starts and runs fine on the stale fuel.
-Battery seems to be good as I can start up the P5 daily driver with it.
-Timing was checked four times before sealing up the covers.
-The injectors are squirting fuel since a flame can be lit on the wet spark plugs.

-There is a faint smell of some burning plastic, but there are no electronics in the place where the smell is coming from. I think this may be the crooked timing belt cover rubbing against the water pump.
-The car sat for two months in the open, with cables exposed to rain, snow, and cold. However, the engine was installed last weekend on a warm day and all cables were checked for damage.
-I have not swapped the CKP sensor since it worked fine before that engine was pulled.
 
ap123 said:
well that is good news the injectors are firing.

Rule of thumb if you pull out the spark plug and the white ceramic insulator under the electrode is black and filthy the plug is trash. There is no cleaning the plug if it is fouled. The reason is because the damage has already been done and the resistance between the electrode and body is now too low:
http://ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp

Change them before you continue trouble shooting.
They're only about 3 bucks each for some number 6 or 7 v-power anyways, better safe than sorry.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the advice. I cleaned the plugs today and re-installed them Surprisingly enough they were NGK 5E plugs. Which is way too low for a boosted protege. So I went and ordered a set of 7E NGK plugs. Should be here by noon tomorrow to install

Good news: I was able to make communications with Haltech F10 today and made a copy of my current fuel map and uploaded the last tune my tuner provided me which resulted in my car in good standing for daily driving. After loading the old map, I had a friend crank the car while i monitored the engine for any abnormal signs. I swear it almost turned over this time. it was like it wanted to start but we quickkly stopped cranking and decided to call my tuner to come over and further troubleshoot the fuel map.

Im sure after he plays around with the fuel map we should be able to start the car no problem. Will update again in 48 hours.

Jp
 
ucnr said:
I am experiencing the same issue on a 2002 Protege DX. I bought the car for $400 in January, it would start and run when I received it but had an overheating issue and valve tick. I pulled an FS-DE engine taken from yet another protege, which ran but was burning oil so I rebuilt it with new bearings, gaskets, and rings and installed it in this DX. All parts are stock, I have done no modifications to the design intent. All connectors attached, it cranks and has compression of 190-191-190-190 @15 cranks, but won't start. Tested the following:

-Checked the ignition spark during night with the plug exposed, strong, blue.
-Fuel is almost 6mo old but still works since I used the fuel pump to unload half the tank into my P5 daily which starts and runs fine on the stale fuel.
-Battery seems to be good as I can start up the P5 daily driver with it.
-Timing was checked four times before sealing up the covers.
-The injectors are squirting fuel since a flame can be lit on the wet spark plugs.

-There is a faint smell of some burning plastic, but there are no electronics in the place where the smell is coming from. I think this may be the crooked timing belt cover rubbing against the water pump.
-The car sat for two months in the open, with cables exposed to rain, snow, and cold. However, the engine was installed last weekend on a warm day and all cables were checked for damage.
-I have not swapped the CKP sensor since it worked fine before that engine was pulled.
Click to expand...
Has the newly rebuilt engine ever been started? Check your ground connections, some of them might be finicky.
 
I still feel that the issue is with the ckp circuit... Check the resistance on it and the continuity on the harness.

Resistance test, Connector [A|B|C], clip on above B. Terminals A and C (outer most), ~550 ohms

Continuity test on the circuit, connector [C|B|A], clip above B. Terminal A to ECM pin 21, terminal B to ECM pin 22. And resistance spec on those wires should be 7 kiliohms I think.

Also, do you have a scan tool that can read engine rpms during cranking? If so, check that.
 
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Something to check for is rodent damage. I've seen it often on stored cars. I ran a European shop and had a lot of customers with 911's and cars that were "Summer" or "Weekend" cars that were stored in the winter and wouldn't start. Had towed it. Rodent damage to wiring harnesses.
 
The engine has never been started after the rebuild although i drove the car it was in a few times when it was smoking before the rebuild. If i disconnect the coil packs, the engine will continue cranking and cylinders will fill up with fuel. I have a spare set of parts so I swapped and tested the coil pack in the open by grounding the plug against the valve cover. It has strong spark. However, if the coil pack is connected, it will crank a few times, then cease, as if it were hydro-locked. Unplug the coil pack, and it will continue cranking.
 
ucnr said:
The engine has never been started after the rebuild although i drove the car it was in a few times when it was smoking before the rebuild. If i disconnect the coil packs, the engine will continue cranking and cylinders will fill up with fuel. I have a spare set of parts so I swapped and tested the coil pack in the open by grounding the plug against the valve cover. It has strong spark. However, if the coil pack is connected, it will crank a few times, then cease, as if it were hydro-locked. Unplug the coil pack, and it will continue cranking.
Click to expand...
What crank pulley are you using? What cam gears are you using?
 
Preferio said:
I still feel that the issue is with the ckp circuit... Check the resistance on it and the continuity on the harness.

Resistance test, Connector [A|B|C], clip on above B. Terminals A and C (outer most), ~550 ohms

Continuity test on the circuit, connector [C|B|A], clip above B. Terminal A to ECM pin 21, terminal B to ECM pin 22. And resistance spec on those wires should be 7 kiliohms I think.

Also, do you have a scan tool that can read engine rpms during cranking? If so, check that.
Click to expand...

I don't have experience with Haltech, but I would be surprised if his ECU software can't tell him the RPM or display the crank signal.

Preferio said:
What crank pulley are you using? What cam gears are you using?
Click to expand...

He specified it was all stock.
 
Its an FS-DE 2.0L (both head and block) taken out of a 2002 Protege5 which started reliably but was burning a lot of oil. I'm going to check that cam is in the correct journal on the weekend although I'm confident they were installed properly.
 
Just checked the cams and timing. Confirmed that the cams are in the proper journals and the timing is lined up. I could try the CKP next but is there some more theory behind the start-up sequence? Thanks
 
Resolved, Haltech reset itself and loaded a default map that wasn't calibrated for my car. We had to configure all the sensors and redo the tune to get it driving again. Its a very rough but rich tune. I'm going to install all the new mods and get a final tune done on the car in may.

Thanks alot for helping.
 
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